Yes, just unscrewed it.
You have no choice but to remove in order to remove the boot asembly.

 

I'm not sure I correct expressed. I mean did you disconnect commander switch connector without negative battery cable disconnect? I affraid about potential problem after this operation which will require connection to service computer.

 

How to access shifter assembly - see steps #1-6, courtesy of JBR.

I've noticed some problems getting into 1st gear--not enough to bother going to the dealer for, but this sounds like an easy enough DIY fix that I'll have to attempt it.

 

Ok yeah, now I remember this connector. Its located on the bottom when you remove the boot.
I dont see any valuable reason to disconnect this*.

 

So do I. Today I finished the procedure and changing gears seem better but I need more kilometers to verify it.
Many thanks for your help.

 

What exactly does loosening that little screw do? I myself have been locked out of first gear but only 2-3 times with only 1200 miles on it.

 

It adjusts neutral position. See TSB.
Where did you do your 1200 miles?In city traffic?

 

Majority of the miles are Highway

 

Now I know why you had problem with first gear 2-3 times

 

There's a gap between the boot and shifter. I fixed the gap with a couple washers under the top of the boot. For a better shift and no modifications, take a look at the james barone racing shift knobs.

 

Thanks! I actually ordered a cylindrical JBR shift knob yesterday, I'll be sure to take some pictures and show you guys but obviously this discussion is in the wrong thread lol.

 

Does anyone have this issue that is not in the TSB Vin range of produced NOV13 or earlier? Mine was manufactured in JAN14 and it appears that I have this issue.

 

I have this issue (I think) and I'm dated in 2014

 

How do you remove the commander knob? I started to remove the plastics, but didn't get very far. I'd like to try this TSB as shifting is very rough, especially from gears 2-3 and 4-5.

 

This TSB nothing changes with 2-3 gear. By the way you do not need remove commader knob.

 

Thanks. It looks like this is the TSB I was looking for. This really sucks.

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/.../2014-mazda-3-skyactiv-engine-performance/68233-hard-shift-into-third-gear.html

 

It should help but do not help in my case. A lot of people say the same

 

 

I have a December 2013 manufacture date, and also seem to have this problem, though it could also be related to TSB 05-008/14. Will try this fix first.

***Performed adjustment as specified, but noted no significant change in the position of the linkage adjuster (2 threads showing before and after). Will update after I have a chance to drive it a bit if it made any differences.

 

Just a suggestion to you all with this issue ...if you haven't been to the dealer, make sure you go and get the issue written up by your service advisor/writer and get a copy for your documentation. Just in case you fall out of warranty by time thy get a fix or solution for it. Always cover your ass. I know they have coverage intervals like 12/12, 3/36 and then the powertrain.

 

Any chance the problem carried over to the 15's? Mine does this pretty badly between 2&3 and 4&5. Also fights me going into first gear a few times a day. Looks like I'll be spending my weekend at the dealership... hooray.

 

I'm going to venture and say yes because my 2015 (late 2014 build date; I'll check which month later today) is notchy getting into 3rd and 5th gear at less than 600 miles on it. It could be related to the 05-008-14 TSB as well.

 

Hey guys! As some of you may know I've been having the problem with the extremely notchy shifter from 2 to 3 and 4 to 5. I began to accept it as a normal feeling even though it felt like the car was not engaging into the gears as smoothly as the test drive unit. So I brought it into my dealer for it's first oil change and lo and behold theres a TSB fix for early production manual 2.0 mazda3s regarding the shifter. Took it for a spirited drive after my oil change and noticed I don't have to move the shifter like a chess piece and actually shift it like my previous manual cars (miata, mini, bmw).

Below is what it said on my invoice:


Not sure if it's the same number (05-14-01) for you USA folks but try to mention this to your dealer if you have the rough / notchy shifter and get it fixed! Also let us know if it did fix your problem or not

Have fun zoom zooming!!! :Racing 1:
@Soler25 posted the TSB on page three. First post.

By chance do you know of a link to find the TSB? I have looked on like 25+ sites and I've found nothing about the manual transmission problem.

 

Page 3, first post

 

Oh shit, I'm blind...

thanks bro!

 

I have only experienced the difficulty of getting back in to 1st gear from nuetral. I find that if I let up on the clutch a couple inches it will go in. It's only happened probably less than 10 times and I have just over 14k on her. I will have the dealer take a look at it when she goes in for her next oil change & tire rotation at 15k.

 

Has anyone figured out a alternate fix to this other than the TSB? I have a 2015 sGT that's suffering pretty bad from this and I've done the TSB probably 4 or 5 times now. The TSB temporarily makes it a little better but then it gets worse again in about 2 weeks.

I don't want to change shift knobs as I like the OEM one and I don't really care for my dealer as they don't really do anything to fix issues like these.

 

you paid good money for the car, you should be happy. keep pressuring the dealer or find a new one.

 

So my dealer didn't know what I was talking about, and said there is no adjustment, of course it might of not helped that I thought it was under the hood. After taking a better look at the picture I discovered it was right next to the shifter, makes more sense seeing that other picture with it torn apart lol. I brought it home and did it myself, it wasn't hard, I did almost break it because I didn't know how it adjusted, finally figured it out, and seems to be a little better, but I don't feel it's like how it was when I test drove it.. oh well.

 

Just noticed this when I was searching around for more info ,

TSB: 05-001/15

MULTI-MODEL (6 SPEED SKYACTIV M/T) ? HARD TO SHIFT INTO 3RD, 4TH, 5TH AND/OR 6TH GEAR

This bulletin supersedes the previous bulletins 05-008/14 issued on 07/14/14 and 11/26/14. The PART(S) INFORMATION has been revised.

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS

2012-2013 Mazda3 (SKYACTIV 6 M/T)

2014-15 Mazda3 (6 M/T) with VINs lower than JM1BM228314 (produced before August 8, 2014)

2013-2015 CX-5 (6 M/T) with VINs lower than JM3KE517027 (produced before August 8, 2014)

2014-2015 Mazda6 (6 M/T) with VINs lower than JM1GJ203425 (produced before August 8, 2014)

 

I spoke with my dealer and they acknowledged the issue. I was instructed to drive a bit more to see what happens. I'm just passing my first 1k km and it's supposedly still in the break-in period, whatever that might mean.

I'm not a mechanic, just a moderatelly advanced human being aware that car is not a black box. Therefore, I would really appreciate someone explaining this to me. I adjusted shifter cables couple of times now and everytime it is fine for a day or two and then becomes bad as it was in the first place. What is causing this slack in it and why it happens all over again after the adjustment? There must be some dimensional tolerances somewhere to cause this. And it's sooo finicky, we're talking about half a mil here...

Could shifter base be the root of the issues? I'm planning to install solid bushings, so I'm wondering if this could help.

Can shifter adjustment explanation fit the fact that this is happenning irregurarly? Or can this just be explained by different moments (RPM range) of the gear engagement?

What about the RMM? Can excessive movement of the engine/transmission assembly relative to the "fixed" shifter base cause someting to misalign overtime?

I'm really brainstorming here because this thing is ruining my experience with the first new car I've ever had. I would never expect this from Mazda and I'm really pissed off/sad because I don't have any hope this will ever be properly resolved.

 

I'm really brainstorming here because this thing is ruining my experience with the first new car I've ever had. I would never expect this from Mazda and I'm really pissed off/sad because I don't have any hope this will ever be properly resolved.

I'm in the same boat as you. I simply have been too busy at work to call Mazda and create a storm. I have over 6,000 miles on mine and it has gotten worse over time. I would still recommend calling Mazda if you haven't already. As soon as my schedule allows, I'll be making a very upset-customer phone call.

 

@mbarisic

after my adjustment, gears 3 to 6 are fine. 1 and 2 are not as notchy but more than the other gears. so i just dont rush (shift slower) my shifts from 1 to 2. shifting from 1 to 2, at higher revs, seems to be smoother. ive just accepted that this mazda transmission doesnt like to be rushed. also i have 60k miles on my car, and the manual hasnt loosen up after the adjustment. so maybe your 3 needs to be looked at again, maybe by a different dealer.

 

I had my dealer do the fix at 9K (shifting was great when I bought the car, but got progressively rougher starting at about 4K). After the fix, the notchyness was noticeably worse. I think they skipped the final step in the service bulletin: test drive the car.

In my case the notchyness feels almost like I'm not disengaging the clutch fully -- as if the pedal is an inch or two from bottoming out.

Working the clutch also used to cause a little squeak under the car. (Somewhere in these forums someone posted an audio file of a clutch squeak that sounded identical to mine -- he turned out needing a new master cylinder.) My squeak went away after a few thousand miles, but now I'm noticing a subtle vibration while re-engaging the clutch pedal. I don't recall noticing this when I purchased the car. The clutch was perfectly smooth, as was the shifting.

Wondering if anyone here could help me out by checking to see if they feel a similar vibration in their clutch pedal. I'm putting together my list of symptoms for when I next revisit the dealer about the service bulletin. These are small-ish things that the dealer might dismiss, so I want to be sure I'm on firm footing.

Best way to feel the vibration is while shifting upward, under load (with acceleration). I feel it most from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4. While releasing the pedal, there's a spot about halfway to 2/3 up where it feels like my foot is sitting on a small electric motor. I.e., it's a fast, high-frequency vibration. It may be normal, and I wouldn't think anything of it (probably wouldn't even notice it) except that I was hyper-aware of how smooth all facets of shifting were when I first got the car.

Maybe it's related to the service bulletin problem? Or maybe my clutch will blow one of these days? Regardless, I want to take of it before the warranty expires.