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2019 Mazda3 Sedan Premium AWD (April 2019 Japan build)
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It will take several weeks to get the part in so expect and update from me late September/early October.
Why should it take "several weeks" to get that part? That's just ridiculous.
 

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2019 Mazda 3 Hatchback AWD 2.5G
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269 Posts
Dropped the car at the dealership yesterday, they did a diagnostics and the conclusion was: "looks like the part is starting to fail and we have ordered a replacement under warranty".
The good part is that my coolant control valve will be replaced again (and hopefully with the improved version); the bad part is that the coolant valve was broken from day1 and they did not tested the fix after replacement.
This time I don't need the car quickly so I'll let them replace the thermostat and then test the car before mark it as successful repair.

It will take several weeks to get the part in so expect and update from me late September/early October.
sorry about complaining in advance
As much as I would LOVE to resolve this issue, the TSB requires an error code which I don't have. My current ambient temps fluctuate between 60-80F throughout the day and even on a 4 hour drive the car's coolant reading from my OBD scanner would constantly sit at 190°F. Under hard acceleration it briefly ticks up a few degrees and then back to 190 when I start crusing...at 85mph. Everytime I talk to a service advisor when I go in for scheduled maintenance (as recently as 2 days ago) I would get a different explanation. The most recent one is that they are designed to run at 190°F. The temp needle used to sit at exactly half way, 215°F. Somewhere along the way, maybe due to a software update, it no longer does. Not even in the summer. Right now it doesn't cause any obvious problems but when winter rolls around I'll be experiencing everything you are without any error code to show for it. I will be told by the service advisor, as I was last year, that this is normal and the temp is dropping at lower speeds, coasting, getting off the highway, etc. because I didn't drive far enough (15 ****ing miles) and because I have the heater on. I give up. Literally my only remaining complaint with this car is it not hitting operating temp, especially in the winter where that means I don't get full heat. At this rate, I should start looking into how to replace the darn pump myself.
 

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2020 CX-5 GT 2.5L 2011 3i 2.0L
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48 Posts
.... The temp needle used to sit at exactly half way, 215°F. Somewhere along the way, maybe due to a software update, it no longer does. ....
Your vehicle's current 190F readings are around 4 degrees lower than my typical 194F (different model but the same engine), and I believe what Mazda told you is correct. I suspect that something fixed a faulty gauge reading, because the rad fan will come on quite a bit before 215F and drive the temp way back down. However, if you don't want to believe what I wrote, then go ahead and fire the parts cannon. And after the smoke clears, I believe that your vehicle will still be running right around 190F.
 

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2019 Mazda3 AWD AT
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213 Posts
The temp needle used to sit at exactly half way, 215°F.
You're issue seems to be different than mine, however I think ~190F is ok.

Speaking about the gauge, I have never seen the needle in the middle for my Mazda3 and neither other Mazda3's I've driven or been in (Uber).
It's a bit weird for the needle not to be right in the middle as with other cars but this seems to be the way with 4th Gen. Mazda3.
Bellow is how I saw the needle on all Mazda3's I've driven and I believe that is normal for this car.

My friend has 2021 Mazda3 turbo and this is how it's on his car:
Speedometer Car White Tachometer Steering part
He're from Youtube from other markets (Europe):
Car Speedometer Odometer Gauge Tachometer
 

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2019 Mazda3 Sedan Premium AWD (April 2019 Japan build)
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339 Posts
Why? I guess you haven't ordered anything from Japan lately......Shipping can now take weeks because of new covid related restrictions.....
It still makes no sense. Parts don't transmit COVID, people do. I could understand if the part was waiting on one of the IC chips that are in short supply, but it doesn't seem like that's the issue.
 

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It still makes no sense. Parts don't transmit COVID, people do. I could understand if the part was waiting on one of the IC chips that are in short supply, but it doesn't seem like that's the issue.
I had a 3-4 week wait on both a wheel bearing and then a front axle. I know they came from Japan, but never got a straight answer on whether the parts were being produced in Japan specifically for my order or merely located and then shipped. Ultimately I figured it didn't really matter. COVID has wrecked havoc on the auto industry's entire supply chain, not just chip-related stuff. I think it might be easy to take for granted how changes like requiring masks and cutting back on labor might delay the shipment of a part to halfway across the world.
 

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2019 Mazda 3 Hatchback AWD 2.5G
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269 Posts
You're issue seems to be different than mine, however I think ~190F is ok.

Speaking about the gauge, I have never seen the needle in the middle for my Mazda3 and neither other Mazda3's I've driven or been in (Uber).
It's a bit weird for the needle not to be right in the middle as with other cars but this seems to be the way with 4th Gen. Mazda3.
Bellow is how I saw the needle on all Mazda3's I've driven and I believe that is normal for this car.

My friend has 2021 Mazda3 turbo and this is how it's on his car:
View attachment 283919
He're from Youtube from other markets (Europe):
View attachment 283918
Had to find an older picture but this is what I used to see. So maybe the gauge is now more accurate and it was always siting around 190.
Speedometer Car Odometer Tachometer Motor vehicle
 

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2019 Mazda 3 Hatchback AWD 2.5G
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269 Posts
Your vehicle's current 190F readings are around 4 degrees lower than my typical 194F (different model but the same engine), and I believe what Mazda told you is correct. I suspect that something fixed a faulty gauge reading, because the rad fan will come on quite a bit before 215F and drive the temp way back down. However, if you don't want to believe what I wrote, then go ahead and fire the parts cannon. And after the smoke clears, I believe that your vehicle will still be running right around 190F.
If 190 is right and a software update changed how the gauge works then fine, I'll let it go. But I'm still unhappy about how a relatively large 2.5l 4 cylinder engine looses engine heat so quickly when it's cold out. Get off the highway and the temp immediately starts dropping. Don't get on the highway at all on your trip and the engine never reaches operating temp. Yes the coolant temps rise faster and stay up longer when the climate control is off but even my old accord with a smaller 2.3L 4 cylinder engine didn't struggle to provide heat or fluctuate nearly as much in the same temperatures. If it struggles below 0°F that's to be expected but I wouldn't expect this kind of issue at 30°-45°F. I could care less about the engine temp fluctuating if that's just how it is but I want heat from the heater and the heater doesn't really start pumping heat unless the engine temp goes above 180.
 

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2020 CX-5 GT 2.5L 2011 3i 2.0L
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If 190 is right and a software update changed how the gauge works then fine, I'll let it go. But I'm still unhappy about how a relatively large 2.5l 4 cylinder engine looses engine heat so quickly when it's cold out. Get off the highway and the temp immediately starts dropping. Don't get on the highway at all on your trip and the engine never reaches operating temp. Yes the coolant temps rise faster and stay up longer when the climate control is off but even my old accord with a smaller 2.3L 4 cylinder engine didn't struggle to provide heat or fluctuate nearly as much in the same temperatures. If it struggles below 0°F that's to be expected but I wouldn't expect this kind of issue at 30°-45°F. I could care less about the engine temp fluctuating if that's just how it is but I want heat from the heater and the heater doesn't really start pumping heat unless the engine temp goes above 180.
Did you at any time monitor the OBD ECT temp from a completely cold startup, through 10 or so miles of driving? If not, then try doing that, and compare your results to the excellent reporting that iwolffy did in his prior posts (#123 is a good summary). Then if your results look anything like his, you can take it to Mazda as proof that your vehicle has a defective coolant valve.
 

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2019 Mazda3 AWD AT
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213 Posts
Dealer called me yesterday to say that my coolant control valve has been replaced and the problem, of course, is still there.
Font Number Paper Paper product Document

They did indeed change my coolant control valve but it's even older then the last one they changed by reading the 2D Code; the old valve was produced in oct-2020 (PYFD1516Z 201002 2000924) and the one they replaced yesterday is from aug-2020 (PYFD1516Z 200821 2001004).
Now that I had three coolant control valves on my car, for sure it's not the issue; either is normal and I am too picky or a temperature sensor within ECU not providing the right output.

Today outside it was 50F so at 6am I went on my tested route (details here), without traffic with Mazda and with BMW and here's the result:
Rectangle Slope Plot Font Line

This is Mazda with old thermostat at 70F vs new one at 50F; the cooler temperature made it warm slower.
Rectangle Slope Plot Font Line

And here's a photo with the troublemaker that I'm just going to leave it alone from this moment.
Without having another Mazda3 to test it in the exact same manner, I can't say for certain that this is not normal; compared with how I remember the car last year (so no measurement) I don't think it's normal not to get to normal operating temperature (and the BMW confirms this) however not much I can do now.
Wheel Car Vehicle Tire Motor vehicle
 
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