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I do not want to ignore it; not driving with the engine at the normal operating temperature can increase wear.


I've got this interface which was gave away for free last week.
After reading your post and how the dealer was pushing back, I have decided to get the interface, do some measurements and have a way to replicate the issue before going to the dealership.
I have that same one! I bought it to check engine codes and log work miles. Didn't know it could do this, I'll play with it later.

Your experience at the dealership may vary. It's a bit ridiculous but I've jumped between two different Mazda dealerships to get my problems rectified as one would acknowledge an issue and another would not or vise versa. Both dealerships have capable employees but you kind of have to get lucky with getting an employee that's willing to look into something and not dismiss you as a inept customer...

If I can't get either to respond to data then I'll try get a response from Mazda HQ.

@perseus is the factory spec blend 50/50 coolant and water? I'm not an expert but I don't think I can have that high of water ratio in my part of the country. Last Monday it was -20⁰F in Minneapolis, MN
 

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Yes, you can log different parameters and it saves it as text in csv format; you can then use Excel or any other similar software and plot a graph out of the values.
 

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I wish I would have thought to log the coolant temps when it was -20⁰F here but from what I saw on the gauge cluster and what I know about how it reads. The coolant would not get above 133°F mark even if I let it idle for 15 minutes via remote start. While driving I occasionally saw it blip over 165°F mark but for the most part it didn't go higher than that even with highway driving and took a lot longer to get there. When idling after driving the gauge would eventually drop back to the 133°F mark and the cabin heat would go with it. Turning off the aircon unit all together did make the temp gauge rise faster while driving but then you're freezing. Turning the aircon on while idling would make the temp gauge drop as the heater stole the warmth from the engine.
 

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You live in a much colder climate than mine. In Seattle it rarely goes bellow 40F and all my recordings were ~45F.
 

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Yeah, well Minneapolis is usually high of mid 30s average in the day and mid 20s or 10s at night. But every year we have a roughly two week stretch where we get severe cold and negatives for a weeks straight even in the day time. It's not great but it also doesn't really stop anything or anyone from functioning here.

TBF this whole month has been a weather anomoly across the country with Dallas seeing negatives and lots of states down south getting unusually cold and snowy.
 

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I have that same one! I bought it to check engine codes and log work miles. Didn't know it could do this, I'll play with it later.

Your experience at the dealership may vary. It's a bit ridiculous but I've jumped between two different Mazda dealerships to get my problems rectified as one would acknowledge an issue and another would not or vise versa. Both dealerships have capable employees but you kind of have to get lucky with getting an employee that's willing to look into something and not dismiss you as a inept customer...

If I can't get either to respond to data then I'll try get a response from Mazda HQ.

@perseus is the factory spec blend 50/50 coolant and water? I'm not an expert but I don't think I can have that high of water ratio in my part of the country. Last Monday it was -20⁰F in Minneapolis, MN
Not sure. I read it may be 45/55. Not likely the issue though if the service tech was able to diagnose. Sounds like a fluke glitch to me. The A/C is another matter. I still don't understand how it works despite my best efforts!
 
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