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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The stock setup of the high beams running at half voltage as the DRLs is bad for the filament of halogen bulbs. Halogens need to run at (near or over) full voltage for the actual halogen cycle to work. Lifespan and luminosity are both negatively affected with the stock setup. Inspection of the high beams will show some appreciable tungsten deposition on the glass in time. In limited run time, that deposition can be reversed when the halogen cycle is entered, but in the significant run time that our DRLs generally see, likely the halogen cycle will not run sufficiently long to counter.

Given that, I've examined the wiring diagrams and come up with some options to alter this behavior.

1. Disable DRLs entirely. Either by pulling the DRL fuse or executing the lights/hazards/lights shutoff routine. Pulling the DRL relay will work but requires a small wiring mod. ($0 cost)

2. Reroute DRL functionality to the fogs by...

a. swapping ground leads between fog and high beam on one side via cutting and splicing (low or $0 cost)
b. swapping ground leads as above but with pigtails, to leave the stock wiring untouched (pigtail pair, $10 to $15 or so)
c. rewiring of the DRL and high beam relays in the fuse box (low cost, requires a dozen or more male/female spades and several short wiring pieces)
d. rewiring of the DRL and high beam relays as above but via wires inside the large loom coming from the fuse box (low cost splicing)
e. rewiring of the DRL and high beam relays as above but done underneath the fuse box by moving spades to different slots ($0)

My preference is to have DRLs, so option 1 is out for me. Option 2a requires working in the tight confines behind the lights. Option 2b is slick, and extra bonus if you switch the high beams to 9011 and get a 9005 to 9011 conversion pigtail. Option 2c is the most accessible but would leave a heap full of activity inside the fuse box. Option 2d potentially allows for easy access, but the loom is large and dense. Option 2e might not be possible; I don't see how to get under the fuse box.

I'm debating how I want to proceed and am leaning 2a or 2b. Am wanting to see if anyone else has done such mods or has different ideas. I have found no other threads where fogs are the sole DRLs in a setup. Switching the H11 low beams to H9, and the 9005 high beams to 9011 HIRs, prompted all this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the comment. I do recall reading your thread a few weeks ago, yes. In your case the LED halos are the normal DRLs, so you've added fogs to the operation. Which is close to what I want.

The key issue as I recall now is that the trigger for the relays is different (one driven, one grounded to operate), hence why I didn't pursue your technique. But with another relay and a snip of a DRL relay wire (or bent relay spade), your technique would work. The bent relay spade would be a non-mod technique I'd prefer.
 

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I am pretty sure this can be done by software also and doesn't require wire splicing or messing around with the circuit board. Everything in this car is electrical and controlled by software.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am pretty sure this can be done by software also and doesn't require wire splicing or messing around with the circuit board. Everything in this car is electrical and controlled by software.
Software how, more info, that would be great. Via the hacking system that was floating around before the cease and desists?

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
not sure what year your car is but this may be of help.

https://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2018-mazda-3-skyactiv-how-guides/103234-fog-lights-drl-mod.html

(oh I see you have a 2016) I found some wiring diagrams and posted them in the above thread. I am sure this may help you if you didn't already have copies. My 2018 uses low beam LED as DRL, but I came up with a way to turn those off and use the halos and fogs for DRL.
I checked the wiring diagrams again and looked at your mod. It might be the good way to go actually. All connections at the FBCM connector, inside the fuse box, done. With the twist that, unlike yours, the 2C wire be disconnected from the regular DRL path. Added bonus that the fogs would be driven at full voltage, rather than half as some of my mods would do.
 

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Im interested in on leaving halos on with my 2018 mazda 3. Any help please?

not sure what year your car is but this

(oh I see you have a 2016) I found some wiring diagrams and posted them in the above thread. I am sure this may help you if you didn't already have copies. My 2018 uses low beam LED as DRL, but I came up with a way to turn those off and use the halos and fogs for DRL.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Im interested in on leaving halos on with my 2018 mazda 3. Any help please?
I'm not familiar with 2018 operation at all. Are these halos part of the stock headlight system?
 

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Yes, they are part of the stock headlight system.
The low beam leds and DRL Halos goes on as soon as i start to drive.

I only want the DRL Halos to come on while driving.

I'm not familiar with 2018 operation at all. Are these halos part of the stock headlight system?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Different wiring than what I'm familiar with on a 2016. Without a wiring diagram, I can't give any advice.
 

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2. Reroute DRL functionality to the fogs by...

a. swapping ground leads between fog and high beam on one side via cutting and splicing (low or $0 cost)

To clarify, are you swapping the ground leads on only one high beam/fog light or both left and right?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
To clarify, are you swapping the ground leads on only one high beam/fog light or both left and right?
I do not recall! I'll have to look at the diagrams again. I ended up just disabling my DRLs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Gerry,

Short answer: left side only.

Long explanation: on the "DRL Relay," contact D is toggled between contacts B and C. C is power, B is ground. In normal operation, D -> B, which grounds the left high beam and allows normal operation. When DRLs are on, D -> C. That causes power to flow up the ground line of the left high beam, through the filament, to the "Headlight Hi Relay" contact D. Contact D is connected to two wires notice. Power then continues on down through the right high beam filament on to ground. Passing power through two filaments in series operates both at half voltage, hence they're dim DRLs.

275397


Notice on the fog wiring, the same setup exists. Specifically, the "Front Fog Light relay" contact D is connected to two wires. This allows the same behavior of the two filaments in series to give half voltage to each. As long as the ground of one fog can be connected to power. Hence rewire the left fog's ground as the left high beam's ground and vice versa.

275398
 

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Thanks, Doug. That certainly is, umm, comprehensive. But good explanation. Now, on to my project...

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