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We have a 2012 Mazda 3 sedan and the drivers side power window will not go up / down. This had happened the other day and I was able to get it working with a reset trick I found on the web (turn key to on, push switch down for a few seconds, hold up). This, however is not working and now. The car had needed a jump, so maybe the battery is acting up.

Anyway, I removed the switch panel and can see the motor. It was really hot.

Do you think the motor got jammed and needs replacing? Does anybody have any other tricks to try?

I am desperate for help. Any advice is REALLY appreciated.

Mike
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
sounds like a short circuit that is draining the battery and causing your window issues. it could be a bad motor or could be the wiring to the motor/switch but sounds to me more like the motor failing. you need to find the service manuals (they are on this site somewhere) and find what resistance your window motor needs to be at when off, going up and going down and check all these with a volt meter to be sure, you would alos need to check the voltage and resistance from the switch. its usually easier to just change parts though when dealing with taking door panels off and such. if you do change the motor change the regulator at the same time (its what the window sits in) as they wear out too and usually come with a new motor aftermarket anyhow. and so you wont have to pull the door apart once fix the motor and have to do it later for the regulator too.

question before you go out and do all this, do any other windows act up or not work right? before this started, after, during etc) has it had any window issues outside this to your knowledge? this can help us help you narrow it down. the drivers switch is usually a "master" switch in that it has to be hooked up for the others to work so you usually know if the internals of the switch are failing because all the windows will act up and its usually random or sporadic in nature, or just bam none work.

to me this sounds like a bad motor or a short circuit in the motor/switch wiring I would pull the door panel and start testing before buying parts, you could even compare the working passenger one and non working droivers one with a volt meter and see if your getting funky read outs for resistance or voltage on either one that would tell you its isolated to the motor or wiring then follow the wiring back and look for breaks in the sheathing grounding out to metal. but again this is not very likely on a 5 year old car so more then likely the motor has started to fail internally
 
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