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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm having a problem with my 2010 mazda3 hatchback. While driving, occasionally the "door ajar" light turns randomly on and off and according to the display, the faulty door is the front passenger door. My question is where in the door can the problem lie? There is no button on the door that comes into contact with the body so I'm guessing the sensor is part of the entire lock assembly. It happens so randomly that I have to leave the center dome light permanently off as it has turned on in the middle of the night before due to the car suddenly thinking the door is open. What do you guys think? Any help will be greatly appreciated as it is no longer under warranty so I will have to purchase/install any parts by myself.
 

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You seem to be having a grounding issue. Pop the door sail off and check the ground wire linked to where the door locks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses guys....it happens both with or without passengers and seems to happen more often on hot days than cool days but I may be just over analyzing it. Sometimes, (maybe a coincidence) when it turns on I'll hit the "lock" button (even though all the doors are already locked) and it'll go away for a while.
 

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disconnect the battery, my sound system was making random beeping noises til the did that
not sure if it will fix the problem, but its worth a shot
 

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Hey guys, I'm having a problem with my 2010 mazda3 hatchback. While driving, occasionally the "door ajar" light turns randomly on and off and according to the display, the faulty door is the front passenger door. My question is where in the door can the problem lie? There is no button on the door that comes into contact with the body so I'm guessing the sensor is part of the entire lock assembly. It happens so randomly that I have to leave the center dome light permanently off as it has turned on in the middle of the night before due to the car suddenly thinking the door is open. What do you guys think? Any help will be greatly appreciated as it is no longer under warranty so I will have to purchase/install any parts by myself.
You probably have a faulty door sensor, unfortunately you have to replace the whole latch assembly as the sensor is built into it. Gone are the days when all you had to replace was a little pin switch. This is progress, NOT! it is just another cash grab. I had this same problem on my car but luckily I was still in warranty.

Pat.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You probably have a faulty door sensor, unfortunately you have to replace the whole latch assembly as the sensor is built into it. Gone are the days when all you had to replace was a little pin switch. This is progress, NOT! it is just another cash grab. I had this same problem on my car but luckily I was still in warranty.

Pat.
Thanks...I will just get an entire new lock assembly. I found this and was wondering if this is the right part number LOCK ASSY RIGHT for 2010 Mazda 3|BCS458310E
It seems right but under the part notes it specifies that it's for the sedan and I have a hatchback. I can't find one specific to hatchbacks. Aren't the front doors exactly the same on the sedans and hatchbacks? I know the rear doors are different but thought the fronts were exactly the same.
 

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Thanks...I will just get an entire new lock assembly. I found this and was wondering if this is the right part number LOCK ASSY RIGHT for 2010 Mazda 3|BCS458310E
It seems right but under the part notes it specifies that it's for the sedan and I have a hatchback. I can't find one specific to hatchbacks. Aren't the front doors exactly the same on the sedans and hatchbacks? I know the rear doors are different but thought the fronts were exactly the same.

I can't answer that definitively, I just took it to the dealer and let them take care of it I was still under warranty, as mazdaspeedmyk posted just give them your vin Number when ordering the part.

Pat.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
*update* I ordered and installed the lock assembly and that did not fix the problem. Took it to the dealer today and they said it's a bad body control module (BCM). Quoted $900 for diag, part, labor, and programming. =(
 

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*update* I ordered and installed the lock assembly and that did not fix the problem. Took it to the dealer today and they said it's a bad body control module (BCM). Quoted $900 for diag, part, labor, and programming. =(
I would be inclined to get a second opinion, if it was a bad BCM you would have more things faulty, the BCM controls a whole host of things, interior lights being one of them.

Pat.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I would be inclined to get a second opinion, if it was a bad BCM you would have more things faulty, the BCM controls a whole host of things, interior lights being one of them.

Pat.
.....my lift gate also stopped working which is what made me bring it into the stealership. If it was just the door open light problem I could have lived with that annoyance, but the hatch is was I need mostly. (I don't want to crawl in the backseat and do the manual release every time I need to open the lift gate.) The tech said that a new BCM would fix both problems and comes with a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty if the problem persists.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
*final update*

So I finally took a day off from work and checked all the wiring because I wasn't about to spend $1000 at the dealer for a new BCM. The culprit was an exposed wire in the door boot that would sometimes improperly ground itself with the metal door frame causing the door ajar light to turn on and off.
 

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*final update*

So I finally took a day off from work and checked all the wiring because I wasn't about to spend $1000 at the dealer for a new BCM. The culprit was an exposed wire in the door boot that would sometimes improperly ground itself with the metal door frame causing the door ajar light to turn on and off.
Glad to hear you found the problem,sometimes that type of problem is impossible to locate, and some folks have paid a fortune in labor costs tracking something like this down.

Pat.
 

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Trunk Release

Hey guys, i am kind of having a similar problem to this. I have a 2010 Mazda 3 GT, and sometimes my trunk releases it's self as if someone hit the button. Sometimes it doesn't work at all, and i have to crawl in the back and manually open the trunk. Once it opens it's self it starts going crazy and constantly the solenoid activates its self. I can feel that the release button still works because i can physically feel it engage and disengage when you press it. The only way to get around this problem is i put the car in neutral and pull up the emergency brake, run to the back and push the trunk closed, then run back in the car and close the doors and lock them to deactivate the trunk release button. Any suggestions on what i should do?
 

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Hey guys, i am kind of having a similar problem to this. I have a 2010 Mazda 3 GT, and sometimes my trunk releases it's self as if someone hit the button. Sometimes it doesn't work at all, and i have to crawl in the back and manually open the trunk. Once it opens it's self it starts going crazy and constantly the solenoid activates its self. I can feel that the release button still works because i can physically feel it engage and disengage when you press it. The only way to get around this problem is i put the car in neutral and pull up the emergency brake, run to the back and push the trunk closed, then run back in the car and close the doors and lock them to deactivate the trunk release button. Any suggestions on what i should do?
Wow how did you figure that out lol. Usually these are small defects in the system that either require an update. Go to dealerahip is all I'll say.
 

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I figured it out by thinking how the system works. The car wont let you open the trunk when the car is locked. But yea i think I'm with you on that one, the dealership is my best bet. My only problem is I go down to school 300+ miles from where i got the car.
 
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