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Yikes...that's a little unsettling at first. But I have a buddy at the Mazda dealership down the road who has the M-MDS so that'll be easy enough. BTW, I finally received a response from H&R and like someone else stated, they said to use the stock bump stops. But I'm going to just grab the ones from 5X like you suggested. I noticed there are 3 different hardness levels (soft, medium, hard) for the rear stops, any suggestion there?
 

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...The other part of this that nobody ever mentions is that you'll need to have the headlights re-adjusted afterwards. If you have the AFS lights, you'll also need to re-initialize the auto-leveling system before re-aiming.
Thanks for mentioning this. I thought it counterintuitive that my headlamps were aimed too low after installing the Eibach Pro-Kit coil springs. I'd have thought that they'd be aimed too high because the rear drop is greater than the front. In any case, I adjusted them higher by aiming them against my garage door, going for a test drive, and then lather, rinse, repeat until they seemed just right. Although I wondered if lowering the car affected the functionality of the auto leveling system, I thought all was well until I read this post:

No, I don't think that button will do this. The sensor needs to be reset to the neutral position to make the system function properly. There is an easy means to do this in the manual though. Use the Procedure Not Using M-MDS part.



Thank you for posting this information. I would like to perform this initialization procedure. Would you please explain where the DLC-2 Terminal (if that's the correct terminology) is located?
 

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Thanks for mentioning this. I thought it counterintuitive that my headlamps were aimed too low after installing the Eibach Pro-Kit coil springs. I'd have thought that they'd be aimed too high because the rear drop is greater than the front. In any case, I adjusted them higher by aiming them against my garage door, going for a test drive, and then lather, rinse, repeat until they seemed just right. Although I wondered if lowering the car affected the functionality of the auto leveling system, I thought all was well until I read this post:
For those who don't know, the leveling sensor is in the rear on the left side. It reads the position of the body relative to the position of the suspension. When you lower the rear of the car the sensor indicates that the headlights are pointed up, so the system points them back down to what it thinks will be the correct position. However, since you have also lowered the front, the car is actually level. As a result, the headlights will be way too low. The sensor needs to be reset so that its new position is registering as neutral, or the normal position for an unloaded vehicle. Once this is done and the lights are manually re-aimed, the system will work properly.
 

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The thing with the Miata is the bump stop has to be progressive like that or the suspension would not work. Setting the suspension on the stops under the least bit of compression is part of what makes the NA Miata handle like it does - decent ride but in a corner the springs are right on the stops, the suspension stiffens up and you can get the rear end out pretty easily. These bumps stops are not springs though, and in part because of this the NA bump stops generally didn't seem to last too long.
The Mazda 3 has somewhat more suspension travel than the MX-5 did, so the stops are totally different.

When I did my car, the stock parts were not working as intended. I finally ended up using shorter bump stops (5X Racing bumpstop kit, 47mm F and 76mm R) on all four corners. The OEM bump stops are fairly long and somewhat progressive, and with the H&Rs they engage too soon. Hitting large bumps at speed produces some pretty jarring thumps....
You can get away with using the OEM parts with H&Ns, but you won't see the full potential of the spring set because the suspension hits the stops too early. We did a 2018 S GT hatch today, H&Rs with a Progress rear bar. The owner chose not to cut the stops for now but that may change. After quick test drive he thought it seemed ok, there was no unusual or new bumps or noises but its going to take some miles for any problems to become apparent.
I bought the Mazdaspeed 3 kit which came with the same size bump stops as you used, but it also includes 2 1.5" PVC pipe couplers for the front bump stops.. to help them stay put in the strut mount and not slide down.

Did you use them? They even recommended gluing the couplers (not the bump stop) to the strut mount to help it stay in place (positively located was the term they used).
CK
 

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I bought the Mazdaspeed 3 kit which came with the same size bump stops as you used, but it also includes 2 1.5" PVC pipe couplers for the front bump stops.. to help them stay put in the strut mount and not slide down.

Did you use them? They even recommended gluing the couplers (not the bump stop) to the strut mount to help it stay in place (positively located was the term they used).
CK
Nope. Not worth the effort. You don't really need to "positively locate" them, its not like they can go anywhere.....Doesn't matter if it slides up and down on the shaft, it still works just the same.
 

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Cool. Thanks for the tip on these bump stops btw. They look very well made and they shipped them out super fast.
CK
 

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I bought the Mazdaspeed 3 kit which came with the same size bump stops as you used, but it also includes 2 1.5" PVC pipe couplers for the front bump stops.. to help them stay put in the strut mount and not slide down.

Did you use them? They even recommended gluing the couplers (not the bump stop) to the strut mount to help it stay in place (positively located was the term they used).
CK
I saw that kit at first as well but found it was cheaper to just buy the bump stops individually since the "full kit" costs $100 and we don't need the PVC couplers. Plus it comes with the red rear bump stops which are the soft version. Individually they are $20 a piece.
 

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Okay.. smarty pants.. :p

I'm going to try and install them today.

I'm installing a JBR front sway bar too.
CK 15829963744023236769008948014263.jpg
 

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Rear bump stops installed. Far less jarring than the cut ones I had before.

Front sway bar and bump stops up next.
CK
 

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Rear bump stops installed. Far less jarring than the cut ones I had before.

Front sway bar and bump stops up next.
CK
So noticeable improvement over the cut-in-half oem stops? Were the new rears smaller?
 

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Yea.. smaller diameter.. they don't sit flush in the metal top mount like the OEM ones do. Not really an issue when she's on the ground though.

They work with the OEM hard dust boot too, which was a nice bonus.

Handling seems better and my wife could tell the ride was smoother in back. Less jarring on bumps.

I want to do the fronts now, but I think I'm going to throw in the towel until morning and a few strong cups of coffee.
CK
 

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Installed the fronts. Less jarring than OEM and handles better on turns. I'm a very happy camper with the full kit. The PVC couplers work to keep the dust boot "positively located" too.

FYI... Front sway bars are a PITA to install... I gave up and re-installed the OEM bar..

I found instructions from Racing Beat, which are much better than the ones from James Barone. They have more steps for dropping the subframe and have you loosen a few more things than James Barone instructions do.

I'll try again when I have some free time.
CK
 

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I also just installed my H&Rs a couple days ago with the 5x racing bumpstops and I was very happy. I've never done suspension work like this but was surprised how simple it ended up being. Took me an hour and a half on jackstands.
 

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Congrats. I love the combo.

I wish my tinkering yesterday went that well..

I got the JBR front sway bar installed, but holy crap was it difficult.

You have to drop the sub-frame under the engine and then remove the OEM bar through the chassis and not the wheel well. And of course the instructions from RacingBeat and JBR did not provide enough information to drop the sub-frame properly. The RacingBeat instructions have you unscrew the steering column completely (through the engine using a 30" extension bar and a universal joint with a helper to set the socket!).. unhook the exhaust just behind the engine (you have to use a 12" extension with a universal joint for this one).. remove the rear motor mount.. removed my h-brace.. the instructions said to remove 4 bolts at the rear of the sub-frame.. but you actually need to remove 6 in the rear to get it to drop.. Wasted hours trying to slide the bar out with the sub-frame not fully dropped, because I was following the instructions.. ugh.. Removing those two extra bolts was nerve racking too, but it worked and I had the sub frame supported with a hydraulic jack.

It's installed and I'm happy with it so far... Less rebound and movement up front, which seems to help the tires stay planted better. I used the firmest setting for it which increases things 95% and it pairs up well with the Progress bar on it's firmest setting in the rear.
CK
 

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I dunno. I tried using the manual procedure to reset the automatic headlight adjuster, but nothing happened - no flashing warning lamps, nothing. I was using a paper clip as a jumper. Got nothing but a sore neck...
Guess I'll bring it into Mazda and have them do it for me.
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I tried it with a paper clip too... nothing happened. I ended up manually adjusting it. There's a white plastic screw behind your headlights that angles the headlight up or down when adjusted. Park 5 feet from a wall, on level ground, measure the distance from the ground to the light bulb in the headlight.. place a horizontal line of tape on the wall at the same height as your light bulb.. twist the white plastic screw until the top of the line of light from your headlights is touching the tape. All done.
CK
 

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Thanks CK. I have already done the static headlamp height adjustment; I was attempting to restore the dynamic headlamp height adjustment.
Update: I'm not so sure it didn't work, because at o-dark-thirty this morning it seemed to have a higher light beam pattern than I've become accustomed to seeing. I'll attempt to verify it tonight against my "calibrated" garage door seam height gauge. If in fact it did actually work, I can assure you that there were no indications from the dashboard warning lamps as described in the procedure.

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