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I have 2015 sport and 9 mi trip to work. I notice that my 3 doesn't warm up completely during this 9mi/25min trip. It is like 20F outside. It goes up to 150-155F. When idles at a stoplight the coolant temp drops to 140-145 while waiting for the green. On the highway it quickly goes to like 182F

I do not think the thermostat is bad. I'm thinking to use the semi's winter trick and block part of the radiator from getting cold air stream.

Did anybody noticed that issue?
There are may reasons to worry that the car is not getting up to operation temperature.
 

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I have 2015 sport and 9 mi trip to work. I notice that my 3 doesn't warm up completely during this 9mi/25min trip. It is like 20F outside. It goes up to 150-155F. When idles at a stoplight the coolant temp drops to 140-145 while waiting for the green. On the highway it quickly goes to like 182F

I do not think the thermostat is bad. I'm thinking to use the semi's winter trick and block part of the radiator from getting cold air stream.

Did anybody noticed that issue?
There are may reasons to worry that the car is not getting up to operation temperature.
How do you know the exact temperatures? The 3 only has a blue idiot light and that usually turns off after 10 mins of driving. It was -18C a few days ago and the light turned off in a short while. (The whole trip for me was only 10 km)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How do you know the exact temperatures? The 3 only has a blue idiot light and that usually turns off after 10 mins of driving. It was -18C a few days ago and the light turned off in a short while. (The whole trip for me was only 10 km)
Mazda AIO Tweaks - then monitor trough the infotainment app (speedometer has info)
or OBDII dongle + Bluetooth to your phone
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just spoke with service people at the local dealership. The claim is that bad thermostat should definitely trigger SEL.
In the service manual is mentioned P0126 for thermostat stuck open.

This is my first winter with the M3 - I'm still unsure what is considered normal on it.

If I push the dealer to replace the thermostat - they will charge ~$400 for the job.
 

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So there is a reason that the temperature guages on cars are set to accept wide ranges and not move much. If people really knew how much the temperature changed, they would do exactly like what you are doing. Your car is working exactly as intended. The only time you need to worry is if the blue light doesn't turn off, or the CEL comes on. Do not spend money like there is a problem here. The car will tell you if there is, or it will run rough.
 

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Its been 5°F here for the past couple days and below 0 at night. Normal operating temperatures have not changed according to what my gauge says nor should they. The car should warm up to and stay at about 180° no matter what. If the temps are staying at 140-150 sitting in traffic the thermostat may not be stuck open but its not working properly in any case. The CEL may not come on either depending on whether or not the criteria for triggering have been met. Its not an instant on thing.
Have you checked your coolant level by any chance?
 

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So there is a reason that the temperature guages on cars are set to accept wide ranges and not move much. If people really knew how much the temperature changed, they would do exactly like what you are doing. Your car is working exactly as intended. The only time you need to worry is if the blue light doesn't turn off, or the CEL comes on. Do not spend money like there is a problem here. The car will tell you if there is, or it will run rough.
Agree. In this case the computers can be trusted. Same deal with oil pressure gauges. People talk about pressure all the time when they actually have an analog gauge, asking if it should dip and peak, etc.... I don't always trust technology, but coolant temp and some other monitoring are old hat now and proven to work.
 

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I live in Southern Quebec and it’s been cold A/F here lately, -30c or worse. Car warms up super fast and keeps its temp. 2nd winter with it and I love the speed it heats up, unlike the Golf Wagon I had before.
 

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I've never driven my 2015 in below freezing temperatures. I drive with an ODBII adapter plugged in and monitor coolant, transmission, oil, and catalyst temperatures.

Normal operating coolant, trans, and oil temps are about 185°F. The blue light goes off at about 135°F. In the summer, the blue light goes off about the time I leave my driveway (ambient > 100°F). It takes several blocks in cooler weather. It doesn't get to 185°F for a few miles (ambient 50°F - 65°F). The trans temp lags quite a bit behind the coolant but eventually catches up.

Having the heater on delays warm up as the heat is transferred to the cabin instead of staying in the engine area.

ps
After > 3.5 years, my windshield wipers are in perfect condition. 340 sunny days a year will do that.
 

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But, to answer your question, I can see no problem with using the old truck drivers trick of putting a blind on the radiator. The radiator will have heaps of capacity in a cold winter. Do it myself with a GM vehicle that's a bit more primitive than the Mazda.
 

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Mazda’s are promoted in Canada to be winter resistant. Just drive it with the heater on. If it doesn’t keep its heat, get it checked. -30 for 2 weeks straight here and no issues whatsoever on my 2017 sGT.
 

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-30 ?? Good grief. It's going to be 113 degrees F in Melbourne later today and I know the wife's SP25GT will run perfectly. Good cars Mazda's.
 

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So how are you monitoring oil temperature through the OBD system? There is no provision for that.
To be honest, its called Estimated Oil Temperature by the OBDLink app with the advanced Mazda add-on. But it differs from coolant and trans temps and way different than the cat (1800°F).
 

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-30 ?? Good grief. It's going to be 113 degrees F in Melbourne later today and I know the wife's SP25GT will run perfectly. Good cars Mazda's.
Come to NA... there's suppose to be a "Polar Vortex" near the end of January.
 

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i wouldn't worry about it . if you really want it be at ease just change the thermostat to be sure. it may have a thermostat for summer use which will make it run cooler . but ive never seen a car fail for running a little cool . are you getting good heat on your heating system in the cabin? if so dont worry
 

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So there is a reason that the temperature guages on cars are set to accept wide ranges and not move much. If people really knew how much the temperature changed, they would do exactly like what you are doing. Your car is working exactly as intended. The only time you need to worry is if the blue light doesn't turn off, or the CEL comes on. Do not spend money like there is a problem here. The car will tell you if there is, or it will run rough.


My blue light will go off quick if I drive up a hill but could go back on driving down before I reach the end of my short commute of less than 7 miles. 70,000 trouble free miles on my 2014 3.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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i wouldn't worry about it . if you really want it be at ease just change the thermostat to be sure. it may have a thermostat for summer use which will make it run cooler . but ive never seen a car fail for running a little cool . are you getting good heat on your heating system in the cabin? if so dont worry
running "cool" will trigger a engine warning light.
 
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