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First and foremost let me start by saying please please PLEASE make sure you are practicing better safety precautions than I did in this tutorial. I have experience using these tools and thus felt safe with the way I handled them but nonetheless please follow correct safety precautions with tools. There are plenty of ways you can go about making a license plate relocation kit. The route I chose was to allow it to be the simplest and easiest way for anyone to accomplish this mod with MINIMAL tools and hardware. I did the least amount of cutting, drilling, and purchasing of hardware for this very reason. Everything I purchased can easily be had at your local home improvement store. Now on to the good stuff.
Hardware needed
Keep in mind you will also need a titanium coated drill bit (a normal one will suffice but will take some time to go through the metal) and a drill. Many have one, but I presume some don't. I did so I didn't factor that into the cost. You will also need an angle grinder or a saw. A saw is cheap, but you'll put in some time and effort if you go that route. I purchased a cordless ryobi 18v 4 1/2" angle grinder for $40 and I'm keeping it. You can purchase one and keep it or return it if you so choose. You will need 1 diablo 4 1/2" type 27 metal cut-off wheel for cutting the metal.
![20140401_192443.jpg]()
![20140401_192455.jpg]()
Step 1
Get all your supplies and tools. Everything crossed out in yellow you don't need. I tried a different method and wasn't satisfied so this is my re-edited version.
![2014-04-01-19-40-14.png]()
Step 2
Get your tow hook and screw it in the front bumper as tight as you can. Get a marker (electrical tape works best) I forgot to take a picture of this step so I had to improvise....use your imagination.
![2014-04-01-19-32-31.png]()
Word of caution. This next step isn't for the faint hearted. The only reason I chose to cut the tow hook while it was attached to my bumper was because I was more than confident in mine and my fathers steady hands. You, in no way have to follow my method in getting the cut. I later realized I could have just stepped on the tow hook with it hanging in mid air off the edge of the sidewalk. But that isn't too safe either. If you have a workshop vise...use it.
Step 3
Get your angle grinder or saw and cut the tow hook at an angle that follows your bumper. Don't cut flush with it as you wont have clearance for the bolts behind the license plate. Remember, you can always cut away metal.....you can't add any. Don't forget your safety goggles or glasses!!
![20140330_155012.jpg]()
halfway through! using the electrical tape as my boundary
![20140330_155317.jpg]()
This is the stupidest and most unsafe part of this mod. I held it at the end because I didn't want the end of the tow hook to catch on the wheel and turn projectile. Don't do this, It will just fall once you cut all the way through the hook.
![20140330_155930.jpg]()
After you cut your hook, put your license plate up flush against it and check to see if you like the angle or if the plates are touching the bumper at all. If you don't like the angle and you purchased the ryobi angle grinder, you can grind down the angle any which way to your liking with the grinder wheel that came with the tool. Again, you can return the whole thing if you so choose. Be mindful when grinding it down though because that wheel can and will grind away any metal fairly easily. Once you are happy with the angle, get out your tap and drill tool.
![20140330_131136-1.jpg]()
A titanium drill bit will work much better than the drill that came in the combo set, but either one is fine. You must drill into the tow hook first making sure you drill enough to fit the 3/4" screw all the way in. Once you feel you have drilled a deep enough hole, get your tap out:tt2: when you start using your tap, be sure to have some sort of lubricant to help your tap thread the hole. I used wd40 and it worked for me. Turn the tap clockwise 3 or 4 complete turns, then reverse and go counter-clockwise the same amount of turns so the filings don't clog the hole and damage the tap. Rinse, repeat.
![20140330_181229.jpg]()
Step 4
Get the T strap and license plate and line up the T behind the plate with the plate being right-side up. Get a marker and use your license plate screw holes to mark the T plate behind so you can get a template of the holes you need to drill. The 1/4" screw fits the plate holes perfectly so that's why I purchased that specific size screw.
![20140401_161750.jpg]()
![20140401_161725.jpg]()
![20140401_161708.jpg]()
![20140401_161931.jpg]()
![20140401_162713.jpg]()
voila, perfect match!
now we need to cut off that excess part of metal that sticks out past the license plate. Angle grinder for this and this time I put it on the ground and cut it.
![20140401_174517.jpg]()
Step 4
Now you need to decide where you want to drill the hole that will connect the T bracket to the actual tow hook. The yellow circles with holes are where I drilled so I could change the height of the plate to my liking. You can drill in the other yellow circles I drew to offset the plate or just drill a bunch of holes and move them around to where you see fit.
![2014-04-01-20-41-35[1].png]()
Step 5
Now attach the bracket to the tow hook with the #10 - 24 x 3/4" screw. I used the washer I bought and a smaller one on top that I found and screwed the bolt in as far as I could and as hard as I could. Enough so that it started to strip the screw. Just so you are aware, the plate can still be turned side to side. BUT in NORMAL driving conditions and daily commutes, the vibrations are not enough to cause the plate to fall over. I plan on adding another bolt in the tow hook to eliminate the movement entirely and will add loc tite when I do. But for now, the one screw has held up well and given me no issues.
![20140401_175303.jpg]()
![20140401_175333.jpg]()
Step 6
Now get 1/4" - 20 x 1/2" bolt and a washer
![20140401_175401.jpg]()
Then bracket, then another washer
![20140401_175456.jpg]()
and finally the nylon lock nut
![20140401_175512.jpg]()
Now do the same to the other side. Don't worry about the screw in the middle, it won't hinder anything
![20140401_175535.jpg]()
Tighten the bolts down and readjust the plate alignment if you only attached the bracket using one screw. Again, the plate can move if you move it but with normal driving and vibrations it won't move on its own. Add another screw or loc tite it if you want, I just haven't had any issues with just running one screw.
![20140401_175726.jpg]()
Sit back, relax, and enjoy your new relocation kit.
![20140330_182659.jpg]()
![20140330_182709.jpg]()
![20140330_182716.jpg]()
I want to thank @RedTape for this. After seeing his version of the kit with the welds, I set out to make one myself. I know that myself along with many others don't have a welding torch, CNC machine, and all that fancy gizmos. But with this method, it will allow many to go out and do this mod themselves with minimal tools. This is a simple and straight-forward mod that looks very clean. This is my first DIY and if this helped you at all don't forget to hit that thumb button!!
Hardware needed
- Simpson Strong-Tie 14G 12" x 8" T strap $5.61
- 1/4" - 20 x 1/2" stainless round head combo 2pk $1.18
- #10 - 24 x 3/4" stainless flat head phillips 4pk (I ended up just using 1) $1.18
- 1/4" stainless flat washers 6pk $1.18
- 1/4" - 20 stainless nylon lock nuts 3pk $1.18
- irwin 10 - 32 pts drill & tap combo $3.97 (you will need the head key to turn it, drill didn't work so well for me
- your tow hook......yes the one in the rear of your trunk. Home depot didn't have a metric bolt that was big enough so I decided to just cut up my tow hook bolt and use that instead.
You also don't have to use the same size tap and drill combo and bolts I used. Make sure that whatever size drill and tap you get, you get a corresponding bolt of the same size and the shortest one. 1/4" is a decent size, I wouldn't go any smaller.
Keep in mind you will also need a titanium coated drill bit (a normal one will suffice but will take some time to go through the metal) and a drill. Many have one, but I presume some don't. I did so I didn't factor that into the cost. You will also need an angle grinder or a saw. A saw is cheap, but you'll put in some time and effort if you go that route. I purchased a cordless ryobi 18v 4 1/2" angle grinder for $40 and I'm keeping it. You can purchase one and keep it or return it if you so choose. You will need 1 diablo 4 1/2" type 27 metal cut-off wheel for cutting the metal.
Step 1
Get all your supplies and tools. Everything crossed out in yellow you don't need. I tried a different method and wasn't satisfied so this is my re-edited version.
Step 2
Get your tow hook and screw it in the front bumper as tight as you can. Get a marker (electrical tape works best) I forgot to take a picture of this step so I had to improvise....use your imagination.
Word of caution. This next step isn't for the faint hearted. The only reason I chose to cut the tow hook while it was attached to my bumper was because I was more than confident in mine and my fathers steady hands. You, in no way have to follow my method in getting the cut. I later realized I could have just stepped on the tow hook with it hanging in mid air off the edge of the sidewalk. But that isn't too safe either. If you have a workshop vise...use it.
Step 3
Get your angle grinder or saw and cut the tow hook at an angle that follows your bumper. Don't cut flush with it as you wont have clearance for the bolts behind the license plate. Remember, you can always cut away metal.....you can't add any. Don't forget your safety goggles or glasses!!
halfway through! using the electrical tape as my boundary
This is the stupidest and most unsafe part of this mod. I held it at the end because I didn't want the end of the tow hook to catch on the wheel and turn projectile. Don't do this, It will just fall once you cut all the way through the hook.
After you cut your hook, put your license plate up flush against it and check to see if you like the angle or if the plates are touching the bumper at all. If you don't like the angle and you purchased the ryobi angle grinder, you can grind down the angle any which way to your liking with the grinder wheel that came with the tool. Again, you can return the whole thing if you so choose. Be mindful when grinding it down though because that wheel can and will grind away any metal fairly easily. Once you are happy with the angle, get out your tap and drill tool.
A titanium drill bit will work much better than the drill that came in the combo set, but either one is fine. You must drill into the tow hook first making sure you drill enough to fit the 3/4" screw all the way in. Once you feel you have drilled a deep enough hole, get your tap out:tt2: when you start using your tap, be sure to have some sort of lubricant to help your tap thread the hole. I used wd40 and it worked for me. Turn the tap clockwise 3 or 4 complete turns, then reverse and go counter-clockwise the same amount of turns so the filings don't clog the hole and damage the tap. Rinse, repeat.
Step 4
Get the T strap and license plate and line up the T behind the plate with the plate being right-side up. Get a marker and use your license plate screw holes to mark the T plate behind so you can get a template of the holes you need to drill. The 1/4" screw fits the plate holes perfectly so that's why I purchased that specific size screw.
voila, perfect match!
now we need to cut off that excess part of metal that sticks out past the license plate. Angle grinder for this and this time I put it on the ground and cut it.
Step 4
Now you need to decide where you want to drill the hole that will connect the T bracket to the actual tow hook. The yellow circles with holes are where I drilled so I could change the height of the plate to my liking. You can drill in the other yellow circles I drew to offset the plate or just drill a bunch of holes and move them around to where you see fit.
![2014-04-01-20-41-35[1].png](/d2/attachments/17/17470-a5736cbae442401ac86229789bc5dfbf.jpg)
Step 5
Now attach the bracket to the tow hook with the #10 - 24 x 3/4" screw. I used the washer I bought and a smaller one on top that I found and screwed the bolt in as far as I could and as hard as I could. Enough so that it started to strip the screw. Just so you are aware, the plate can still be turned side to side. BUT in NORMAL driving conditions and daily commutes, the vibrations are not enough to cause the plate to fall over. I plan on adding another bolt in the tow hook to eliminate the movement entirely and will add loc tite when I do. But for now, the one screw has held up well and given me no issues.
Step 6
Now get 1/4" - 20 x 1/2" bolt and a washer
Then bracket, then another washer
and finally the nylon lock nut
Now do the same to the other side. Don't worry about the screw in the middle, it won't hinder anything
Tighten the bolts down and readjust the plate alignment if you only attached the bracket using one screw. Again, the plate can move if you move it but with normal driving and vibrations it won't move on its own. Add another screw or loc tite it if you want, I just haven't had any issues with just running one screw.
Sit back, relax, and enjoy your new relocation kit.
I want to thank @RedTape for this. After seeing his version of the kit with the welds, I set out to make one myself. I know that myself along with many others don't have a welding torch, CNC machine, and all that fancy gizmos. But with this method, it will allow many to go out and do this mod themselves with minimal tools. This is a simple and straight-forward mod that looks very clean. This is my first DIY and if this helped you at all don't forget to hit that thumb button!!
h34r:
