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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Vehicle: 2014 Mazda 3 GS (Canadian Mid-Trim)
Mod: Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs
Time: 3 hours (a huge portion of that time was dedicated to taking photos and swatting away swarms of mosquitoes).
Difficulty: 2.5/5 (as long as you have the right tools)
Tools Needed:
Something to lift the car with, transmission table, assorted socket set (14-21mm), 17 and 19mm wrench, penetrating fluid, torque wrench, spring compressor, 5 and 6mm Allen wrench, pliers.

Hi everyone! I installed my Eibach Pro Kit earlier this week and thought I would share the experience. I am fortunate enough to have access to a garage, and if you have the means and the tools to do this job, I highly recommend doing it yourself as the actual work involved is quite simple. I'm not a mechanic, so if I can do it, anyone can do it!

The following guide is to help supplement the @CorkSport lowering spring instructions which I used. The instructions they provided online are extremely clear and I really can't provide better instructions, however I can provide a few tips on how to make the job easier on yourself. All torque values were referenced from Corksport's install instructions.

1. Unbox your springs and smile because you're materialistic and new stuff makes you happy. Find 2 bump stops for the front and 4 springs.


2. Get your car up on a lift or on jackstands. Remove your wheels.

(Giddy up)

The Rears

3. I started with the rears first since they're shit simple. Literally 2 bolts stand in your way to lowering goodness in the back end. Spray the nut holding the endlink and the bolt holding the spindle to the lower control arm with penetrating fluid and let it soak (leave the KY at home).


4. Get a separate jack, or in my case I used a transmission table, and raise up the LCA slightly to take take up some of the load.



5. Undo the 14mm nut holding the swaybar endlink in.


6. Undo the 17mm bolt holding the spindle to the LCA. Note, I learned somewhere that it's better practice to undo the nut side vs the bolt side.

I had to wiggle the bolt with a set of pliers to get it out.


7. Lower the transmission table completely, pull down slightly on the LCA, and pull out the stock spring. The rubber mount on the top will be transferred onto the new springs.


A little side by side comparo:


8. The Eibach springs are installed with the writing on the spring right side up. The upper rubber perch gets transferred over to the narrow part of the spring. Replace your old spring with the new one and voila!

Ensure the pigtail on the bottom of the spring is up against the notch in the lower perch in the LCA.


9. Jack up the LCA with the transmission table again and line up the holes for the endlink and spindle. Reinsert the bolt and 2 nuts and torque to 25 ftlb for the endlink and 45ftlb for the spindle.



10. Note that the Eibach kit uses the stock bump stops in the rear so there is no need to remove the struts like in the Corksport kit. Rinse and repeat on the other side, and you're done!

The Fronts

Again soak all your bolts with penetrating fluid before you start.



11. Undo the ABS wire from the strut body. Get a set of needle nose pliers, and squeeze the tabs (pointed out) and wiggle the plastic clips out.

Be careful with this one, it's a little hard to get out and I broke one of the tabs and had to superglue it back together.


12. Use a flathead screwdriver and pry off the clip holding the brake line to the strut body. Use leverage to wiggle the clip around until it pops off.



13. Remove the nut holding the swaybar endlink to the strut body. This nut will just keep turning the endlink bushing unless you hold it down by either using a 5mm allen key, or holding the backside with a pair of pliers. I used one technique on one side of the car, and the other technique on the other side of the car.



I prefer using this method with the pliers, as I found that on my gf's car that the holes for the allen key often times get rounded out due to corrosion.


14. Remove the 2 19mm bolts holding the strut to the spindle. I used an impact gun to quicken the process.


15. Slowly undo the top 3 14mm nuts holding the strut to the strut tower to drop out the coilover. Get a friend to help hold the coil and guide it out of the wheel well as you undo the nuts.


16. With the stock coil out, compress the spring to take the tension off the top hat.


17. Remove the 17mm nut in the middle of the top hat. I used a combination of impact gun, and 6mm allen key because the piston will want to spin with the nut.


18. Remove the compressor from the spring and disassemble your coilover.
Here you can see the stock vs oem spring, and old vs new bump stop.

Replace the old bump stop with the new one (making sure the flat side is pointing upwards), slide the dust boot back over the piston, and transfer the lower rubber perch from the old spring to the new spring.

19. Put the newly assembled coil back into the compressor, compress the spring, and tighten down the top hat with the 6mm allen key and wrench. The middle nut is to be torqued to 50 ftlb however I waited until I mounted it to the car before I torqued it down as the piston just kept spinning when clamped with the spring compressor.


20. Slide your newly lowered coils back into the wheel well and mount it to the shock tower with the 3 nuts. The 3 nuts were torqued to 30ftlb and I torqued the center nut at the top of the shock to 50ftlb.


21. Line up your holes with the spindle and insert your 2 19mm bolts to mate the strut to the spindle. Torque to 75 ftlb.


22. Reinstall your swaybar endlink to the strut body and torque to 25 ftlb.

23. Clip in your brake line, as well as the plastic clips holding the ABS wire.

24. Rinse and repeat on the other side, put your wheels back on, and there you have it!


25. Take an unhealthy number of pictures, then get an alignment.
Before:

After:


 

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Very nice right up, and looks great!! One day ill have to do this :) How is the ride quality vs stock? noticeable difference, bouncy, firmer?
 

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Nice car wheels looks good.
Makes me wonder the width difference (If any) in the cx-5 and 3 strut tower.. it might actuallyy be the same, same with the LCA's which means some of the Ultra racing chassis bars for the cx-5 could fit (in the same wa the sway bars are interchangeable fit). i.e the width between the bolts for the LCA are the same youc an use these lower arm bars. If you wouldn't mind taking a rough measurement bolt to bolt (even just the strut tower since you don't have to try to get under the car) that would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Very nice right up, and looks great!! One day ill have to do this :) How is the ride quality vs stock? noticeable difference, bouncy, firmer?
I find that the new springs are actually more comfortable than the stock springs when driving around town, but is a bit firmer and a bit more responsive in mid turn. Not super stiff nor super sporty, but a great all rounder that definitely improves on the OEM springs. Perfect for the daily driver.

Makes me wonder the width difference (If any) in the cx-5 and 3 strut tower.. it might actuallyy be the same, same with the LCA's which means some of the Ultra racing chassis bars for the cx-5 could fit (in the same wa the sway bars are interchangeable fit).
I wouldn't be surprised if they were interchangeable, but nobody wants to be the first to take that risk!
 

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Wow, now that is an awesome writeup! Way to post up this helpful info.

Also ---> "I find that the new springs are actually more comfortable than the stock springs when driving around town, but is a bit firmer and a bit more responsive in mid turn" this is pretty common feedback on upgraded springs. Definitely the case with my any springs I've done on my cars.
 

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really good write up and good pics. We did mine on my PU in like 1.5 hours flat using floor jacks and jack stands lol I wish I had a lift soooo bad. also If you want to do it yourself you can buy spring compressors form harbor freight for under $20 they aren't fancy but they get the job done. We have been using this simple set for years now. MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor Set
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, now that is an awesome writeup! Way to post up this helpful info.

Also ---> "I find that the new springs are actually more comfortable than the stock springs when driving around town, but is a bit firmer and a bit more responsive in mid turn" this is pretty common feedback on upgraded springs. Definitely the case with my any springs I've done on my cars.
Your instructions were a big help! Thanks for making those available online.

I'm glad that my impressions are the same as the status quo, reassures me that I'm not crazy!
 

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Im trying not to mess with my car but you guys are making it harder to keep it stock lol. Car looks good and if i do ever end up messing with mine eibachs are my first choice.
 

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Thanks for the writeup, I'm sure I'll have to deal with some locals sooner or later with some '14s and I have no idea how to work on them lol.

But springs actually look... almost more easy than the earlier models, the rear shock is mounted in an unusual fashion to me, but the front setup is just like the older Mazdas.


Someone should do a writeup for the RSB, because all I've seen and heard is that it's a PITA.
Especially after I started at the rear subframe images for weeks on end trying to figure it out lol
 

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wow, very fucking sick.

That Rim, paint, tint combo, that shit is insane.... fucking awesome.

Add lowering springs, even better....

That combo though with the white, black, white black... and those rims... shit dude that's insane...

You gotta get fog lights though man.... if you gone this far, retro fit some HID with Lens into the OEM fog....

Still, very nice!

edit:
By the way, what is your tints? 30% in front? 15% in rear??
or what??

edit edit:

found what u said in a different post (SunTek Carbon 45% front, 18% rear)

is there anything special about the SunTek Carbon? just quality? heat absorbing/reflecting? or what??
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
wow, very fucking sick.

That Rim, paint, tint combo, that shit is insane.... fucking awesome.

Add lowering springs, even better....

That combo though with the white, black, white black... and those rims... shit dude that's insane...

You gotta get fog lights though man.... if you gone this far, retro fit some HID with Lens into the OEM fog....

Still, very nice!

edit:
By the way, what is your tints? 30% in front? 15% in rear??
or what??

edit edit:

found what u said in a different post (SunTek Carbon 45% front, 18% rear)

is there anything special about the SunTek Carbon? just quality? heat absorbing/reflecting? or what??
LOL thanks bro! I'm pretty happy with the way the car looks (the red interior is my favourite part though), but I'm not done yet! Still want the Corksport exhaust, bigger rear spoiler, and maybe a blacked out roof if I can get it done for cheap. I've been considering installing the fog lights, but it's so goddamned expensive!

It's the 2nd best tint in their lineup. No metal in the material, doesn't fade, and very good UV protection.
Carbon
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nice write up but eh... the drop is so minor, it's not for me, hence why I went with CorkSport's springs. I'll post pics of my drop after I wash the 3.

Nice mods by the way, the car looks great!
The car could definitely go lower but it all depends where you live and what you use the car for. I still use the car in the Canadian winter and the roads here are crap. Your car is going to look great with the CS springs though, but for that amount of low coilovers would be the optimal solution.
 
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remember the car's going to be lower still once you sit in it. It's not a minor drop either. It's pretty obvious. I scrape at least once a day (driveways) and I'm trying real hard not to let it happen. I can't imagine lowering the car even more. If you have the factory underbody kit...forget it. haha
 
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