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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2014 Mazda3 iTouring 6MT

I recently got a BMW and the first thing I noticed in comparison to the Mazda3 is that the Mazda3 holds the RPM for a long time, making it hard to do quick shifts smoothly especially going from 1-2.

There were reports if the shift indicator goes out, for example if you stall, and restart the car from the "On" state, it doesn't hold the RPM and it drops quickly once you step the clutch. Not sure if they've fixed that glitch. I've experienced that before and I thought I liked the RPM holding, but now having driven the BMW I find it more sporty if the RPM would drop faster. The dealership recently replaced my clutch pedal and broke the clutch sensor, disabling the shift indicator and RPM holding, making the car feel much more peppy. I had it fixed because the car was unhappy about having a broken switch, but I'm missing the more raw throttle response.

Does anyone know of a way to disable the RPM holding?
 

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I have a 2014 Mazda3 iTouring 6MT

I recently got a BMW and the first thing I noticed in comparison to the Mazda3 is that the Mazda3 holds the RPM for a long time, making it hard to do quick shifts smoothly especially going from 1-2.

There were reports if the shift indicator goes out, for example if you stall, and restart the car from the "On" state, it doesn't hold the RPM and it drops quickly once you step the clutch. Not sure if they've fixed that glitch. I've experienced that before and I thought I liked the RPM holding, but now having driven the BMW I find it more sporty if the RPM would drop faster. The dealership recently replaced my clutch pedal and broke the clutch sensor, disabling the shift indicator and RPM holding, making the car feel much more peppy. I had it fixed because the car was unhappy about having a broken switch, but I'm missing the more raw throttle response.

Does anyone know of a way to disable the RPM holding?
I would love this!
 

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Interesting... can you describe what you mean by the car not being happy about the switch, yet it was performing more peppy at the same time? I'm confused.


I really wanna just go unplug the clutch wire and see how she runs.
 

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Is it actually holding the rpm's so they'll drop slowly???? I figured it was just because thats how the car performed, but now that I think about it, my 1984 mercedes, which is auto, doesn't take nearly as long to drop the revs. This is very interesting and I can't wait to hear the outcome of this.
 

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Between emissions related subjects and weight of flywheel, and others, there are plenty of things cause the RPM to "hang" before shifts.

With that said, on-track my RPMs drop very fast to where I can do hard shifts. Around town, it wants to hang. Granted the RPM relationship isn't exactly the same, how thick your trans oil is also greatly makes a difference I would assume (a cold transmission doesn't like moving).

With that last statement in mind, shifting will feel poor in cold climates, vs hot / whenever weather is hot/cold, thus making it hard to compare.

As far as OP's initial statement; RPMs drop fast during an ignition when the car is hot. If the engine is cold, you have to let the RPMs idle, otherwise yes, it WILL hang as the ECU is trying to get the engine to warm up as fast as possible.
A warm engine is an efficient and happy engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Interesting... can you describe what you mean by the car not being happy about the switch, yet it was performing more peppy at the same time? I'm confused.


I really wanna just go unplug the clutch wire and see how she runs.
Not happy as in an expected sensor was missing. So it was throwing an error code and the Start button was flashing yellow instead of solid green.

If you're used to the normal smooth throttle response, it seems kind of off putting because the moment you let off the gas it drags with engine breaking like the BMW does. I don't know if I'm imagining it but it also seemed to pull harder when you step on the gas which is what I mean by peppier. And you can upshift faster with smooth rpm transitions which makes it more exciting :smile2:


That sounds like a brilliant experiment. Do you know what that plug looks like/can you post a picture? I was just told this by the technician at the dealer so I don't really know how the clutch assembly is put together.

Once you do so you'll see what I'm talking about. It's a more jerky but sportier shifting experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Between emissions related subjects and weight of flywheel, and others, there are plenty of things cause the RPM to "hang" before shifts.

With that said, on-track my RPMs drop very fast to where I can do hard shifts. Around town, it wants to hang. Granted the RPM relationship isn't exactly the same, how thick your trans oil is also greatly makes a difference I would assume (a cold transmission doesn't like moving).

With that last statement in mind, shifting will feel poor in cold climates, vs hot / whenever weather is hot/cold, thus making it hard to compare.

As far as OP's initial statement; RPMs drop fast during an ignition when the car is hot. If the engine is cold, you have to let the RPMs idle, otherwise yes, it WILL hang as the ECU is trying to get the engine to warm up as fast as possible.
A warm engine is an efficient and happy engine.
That's the blue warming up light which is a different issue. What I'm talking about is a distinct change in rpm behavior when the throttle is released if the shift indicator is missing. Search for shift indicator missing in the 2014 mazda3 forums. People have commented on this in the past for MT mazda3s pretty soon after the model was available. To me it feels like something electronically controlled as opposed to something mechanical.


BTW: My car is in California and the shifter feels smooth and light year round, especially compared to the BMW. The car is so easy to drive for a MT but sometimes I feel like it's got MT training wheels and I'd like to take them off so the transistion to driving something more raw like the BMW isn't so drastic.

It's cool that you track your 3. I should ask you about that sometime, what engine, mods. Why do you think revs drop faster on track? Is it purely a mechanical thing with oil temperatures or do you think the ECU is adapting to your driving style?
 

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That's the blue warming up light which is a different issue. What I'm talking about is a distinct change in rpm behavior when the throttle is released if the shift indicator is missing. Search for shift indicator missing in the 2014 mazda3 forums. People have commented on this in the past for MT mazda3s pretty soon after the model was available. To me it feels like something electronically controlled as opposed to something mechanical.


BTW: My car is in California and the shifter feels smooth and light year round, especially compared to the BMW. The car is so easy to drive for a MT but sometimes I feel like it's got MT training wheels and I'd like to take them off so the transistion to driving something more raw like the BMW isn't so drastic.

It's cool that you track your 3. I should ask you about that sometime, what engine, mods. Why do you think revs drop faster on track? Is it purely a mechanical thing with oil temperatures or do you think the ECU is adapting to your driving style?
The blue light is that your coolant is below 120F, that isn't what I was referring to, except for when you do start the car and see that light, the RPMs will be high vs if you just shut the car off from running for a while, and start it back up in 5-10 minutes.


I think after this post though your statement makes more sense.
I suppose it's possible right?

That "shift light" is meant for best MPG correct? I wouldn't doubt there is some sort of ECU related coding somewhere in there that says if you go over the light it realizes you aren't trying to get good MPG anymore. I mean, that seems right to me for a fuel efficient focused vehicle right?

I think on-track it's more due to the fact I'm over 5k RPM majority of the time, and the transmission is very warm.
It's just silky smooth shifting; it never fights me or anything on track. On the road, even just to work and back even though I don't move the car until coolant hits 120F and don't really put any effort into the throttle until it clears 160F, there are times third just feels not "clean", as in the transition just feels bleh and feels really notchy (notchy in a bad way, as in gear vs gear notchy like something is in the way). Just for a split second; but on the track I've never had that issue, and I'm assuming it's more-so related to the hot trans oil over anything else. Because gen1s (and gen2s) of course do not have that same shift light or focus on extreme gas mileage.

You're probably on to something though or so it seems for sure.
And if it is the case like what I said; it'd be cool to run a switch to it to "disable" the sensor whenever you wish.
No idea how the car would handle it; probably wouldn't like it if you did it several times while the car was on, but might be worth attempting?
 

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Kinda like a "sport" button, whenever you're in the mood for spirited driving.
Yeah; essentially, but like I said heh, I've no idea how well the car would take it. It'd be like turning a light switch on and off while running down a hallway; not sure when it'll go, but you "need" [want] it either way (you being the ECU).

But again... might be worth the test right?
If OP or someone can confirm it makes that big of a difference.. why not?
 

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It's very strange why it would, so I'll have to test it out this weekend and see what happens.

Either that or wait for a tunning solution to FINALLY come out, so we can tune it to drop the revs faster.
 

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Have you driven the car much since replacing the sensor? Ecu's tend to learn driving styles, and it may just be resetting itself.
I've paid attention to mine since reading this post, and as long as it's up to temperature, the revs drop the instant I push the clutch in; no noticeable lag. Mines a S GT for what it's worth.

That being said, we desperately need a tune available to fix the lagging throttle response.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Have you driven the car much since replacing the sensor? Ecu's tend to learn driving styles, and it may just be resetting itself.
I've paid attention to mine since reading this post, and as long as it's up to temperature, the revs drop the instant I push the clutch in; no noticeable lag. Mines a S GT for what it's worth.

That being said, we desperately need a tune available to fix the lagging throttle response.
It's not a lag so much as when the switch is present, it drops more slowly than when it's absent. It starts dropping immediately but at a slower rate.

I think this makes the car smoother for when you take your foot off the throttle, whereas a more raw car would kick in with a bunch of engine breaking the moment you lifted off the throttle. But the drawback is slower shifts if you care about rev matching the up shifts. I would prefer it to drop rpms more quickly
when the clutch is depressed and throttle is off, but it doesn't seem to make that distinction.
 

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The engine holding the revs up between throttle input is done to save fuel. Rpm dives kill fuel mpg. I was able to create the dive in rpms by switching to a lightweight flywheel(6 lbs) but that was another car and not a fuel efficient minded application like a skyactiv mazda. I'm guessing it can be done with ecu mods
 

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This thread: Mazda3Revolution.com 2010-13 Mazda 3/Mazdaspeed 3 Forums

Mentions that if you press the start button twice without starting the car (no foot on clutch/brake), let the lights and radio turn on, and then clutch/brake and start button, the car should drive without the gear shift indicator, and with more abrupt throttle response.

I'll give it a try tomorrow.

I've tried that before. Engine responds the same and the shift indicator still functions.
 

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...press the start button twice without starting the car (no foot on clutch/brake), let the lights and radio turn on, and then clutch/brake and start button, the car should drive without the gear shift indicator, and with more abrupt throttle response...
I've tried that before. Engine responds the same and the shift indicator still functions.
I tried it as well now... like you said, no change from the normal. Must have been a glitch that they corrected.
 

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Would be cool if there was a button sequence we needed to hit "fix" the lag. Reminds me of the Nintendo days.
 
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