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Discussion Starter #1
So today I debadged my 3. I used a heat gun for 20-30 seconds or so, fishing line, and then Turtle Wax adhesive remover, cotton cloth and alcohol with paper towel to get all the excess glue off.

I noticed that the paint seemed "different" as in raised around where the badges were. Either I overheated them with the heat gun and messed up / warped / bubbled the paint, the Arizona sun did it already from months on a car lot, or the badges got put on before the clear coat fully dried in factory.

I used Quixx Paint Scratch Remover on both badge areas, and then two coats of Mequiar's spray wax. This Quixx stuff actually works, and at least there aren't my regular swirl marks around spotless shadows of old badges anymore (I need to take better care of the mediocre Mazda paint, I know), but still, in certain light, you can see the shadow of the badges. Direct artificial light at night reveals nothing at *most* angles, but sunlight does, again at certain angles. You can see it like the paint is of different thickness or height, probably just the clear coat.

Any ideas to level this out, guys, specific products or techniques I mean? I know I have black plasti dip logos as a reasonably cool looking alternative, but if I can stay debadged, I'd prefer it.

All that said, this car does at least look pretty clean debadged, when you can't see the remnants of the badges like in this pic! Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Give it a week or two, just slight cases of fade / clearcoat gassing where the badge was.
After a little while you won't see it at all.
 

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Definitely can't see what you're talking about with the quality of that picture. However, from experience with wet sand and buffing, you probably overheated your paint with that heat gun process, and the primer has separated from the sheet metal. Without a better quality image, I'm going to say best bet is to sand down to metal, prime, and re-paint. Wet sand and buff to blend the new paint with the old.

When I de-badged my 3, and nearly every other car I've done that has glued on emblems, I remove the emblems by hand or with the assistance of an old credit card to "slice" the emblem from the glue.
Without any heat except for sitting in the sun for a few minutes, I then use gasoline on an old microfiber to lightly wipe the adhesive, avoiding touching the paint if at all possible.
This literally melts the adhesive off the paint, followed by a thorough cleaning, polishing compound, and wax.
I've never had an issue with this method, but the first time I did this with a heat gun on a 2003 Matrix, it was an issue. Newer paints on at least 90% of the cars out there today are total garbage, unfortunately including our Mazdas'.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I guess I messed up. I read that I had to use a heat gun. I didn't take into account that's probably people in the Midwest / East / Canada, etc, saying that, and I live in the desert, and they probably were already hot. Ugh. Plasti dip!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I kinda hope XCNuse is right... Either way I might just end up plastidipping black and rebadging, which will still look cool.
 

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a quick polish and wax job will get rid of all your ocd worries.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, either my "OCD" mode about it has decreased, or the apparent shadows have slowly been fading, or both. Perhaps the first guy to reply was right. That said, I went and got some plasti-dip, and tested it on the removed SkyActive logo. I was rather pleased, so I went ahead and did the Mazda emblem tonight. Clean and mysterious! I'll probably leave the other emblems off anyway, and I see myself going black with a few coats of blue metalizer on my wheels in the near future. This plasti-dip stuff is great! I'm one of those people now. Lol!
 

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