[11hatch]

I brought my 3 into the dealer for an oil change yesterday and when I arrived I was asked if I wanted to do their "recommended" intermitance inspection along with wheel rotation, filter change, wheel alignment check and a few other things. I agreed and all was well.
Upon leaving the dealer I noticed a weird noise coming from the front wheels (not sure which), but decided to keep driving as this noise I was hearing is kind of faint and not an alarming sound.
After about 30 miles of driving I kept hearing this darn sound and decided to test out what it could be. After testing a few differnt driving patterns I came to the conclusion that it's the front brakes catching the rotors as I'm driving. It. At he's on every full rotation and will not go away no matter how I brake.
I called the dealer and explained what I'm dealing with at the moment since leaving their lot and I was told to head back so they can inspect the car.
Has anyone here experinced something similar to what I am going through after a dealer visit ?. What could have caused my brakes to catch the rotors after just a simple tire rotation ?.

I was really angry to hear this sound coming from my baby !. Only 17k miles on her, but she sounded like a run down car (almost).

Thanks

 

[wymi]

What did they find wrong?

 

[chris_top_her]

Yup, this is the first car I started doing my own maintenance on, to avoid unknowns. After my free oil changes ran out I learned to do it myself and installed a valve to make it easier. Oil change for me is the cost of oil and like $7 to rent a stall and the waste oil tank at the auto hobby shop. Unless it requires specialized equipment or technical know how, I learn it. That's one huge pet peeve I have about my car (especially having bought it brand new) is to not have it in any condition that makes it seem like it's poorly maintained.

 

[11hatch]

What did they find wrong?

I have not had the time to bring it in yet, but most likely I will tomorrow.
She's currently parked as I am scared to drive it and something go wrong. I will keep you posted.

 

[11hatch]

Yup, this is the first car I started doing my own maintenance on, to avoid unknowns. After my free oil changes ran out I learned to do it myself and installed a valve to make it easier. Oil change for me is the cost of oil and like $7 to rent a stall and the waste oil tank at the auto hobby shop. Unless it requires specialized equipment or technical know how, I learn it. That's one huge pet peeve I have about my car (especially having bought it brand new) is to not have it in any condition that makes it seem like it's poorly maintained.

The idea of Changing my own oil has been something that I have been toying with for sometime now. The only thing is that I do not have my own driveway/garage to do this in and also the know how on how to pull this off right.
I am good with my hands but I never attempted on oil change on any of my cars. Seems like you really need the proper tools to get this done effectively and correct.
Maybe this summer I'll give it go (assuming there's a How too on this forum).
I am always weary of taking my precious into the dealer, but this seems like my best bet as I have gone through some real nightmares with local mechanic shops in my area.

 

[bootslxa]

I have a very similar problem.
I just got my brakes done at a local shop (not the dealer). I would do them myself but time and workspace were not available. They make a sound like something is stuck in there but only sometimes. I know its the back passenger side and it's worse on hard right turns. It's very irritating at 70mph. I've taken it back twice now and they don't find anything, it's at the shop right now, hopefully they'll figure it out.

 

[11hatch]

So I brought my car into the dealer this morning and the result is that both rear tires are cupped.
This I believe is due to my car being parked for about two months without moving. I parked it when our first snow storm hit as many know that our stock tires are horrible in the snow.
Seems like now my only option is to either buy two new tires or change out all four for a new brand.
Ughhh.... So frustrating !
I try to solve one (tire) issue by not driving my car when there's snow on the ground and now created a new problem.
Darn it.

 

[11hatch]

I have a very similar problem.
I just got my brakes done at a local shop (not the dealer). I would do them myself but time and workspace were not available. They make a sound like something is stuck in there but only sometimes. I know its the back passenger side and it's worse on hard right turns. It's very irritating at 70mph. I've taken it back twice now and they don't find anything, it's at the shop right now, hopefully they'll figure it out.

Were your tires rotated ?. If so, it could be the same issue as I am dealing with (cupped tires).

 

[wymi]

Definition and cause of cupped tires:
Cupping
Cups or scalloped dips appearing around the edge of the tread on one side or the other, almost always indicate worn (sometimes bent) suspension parts. Adjustment of wheel alignment alone will seldom cure the problem. Any worn component that connects the wheel to the car (ball joint, wheel bearing, shock absorber, springs, bushings, etc.) can cause this condition. Worn components should be replaced with new ones. The worn tire should be balanced and possibly moved to a different location on the car. Occasionally, wheels that are out of balance will wear like this, but wheel imbalance usually shows up as bald spots between the outside edges and center of the tread.

 

[11hatch]

Definition and cause of cupped tires:
Cupping
Cups or scalloped dips appearing around the edge of the tread on one side or the other, almost always indicate worn (sometimes bent) suspension parts. Adjustment of wheel alignment alone will seldom cure the problem. Any worn component that connects the wheel to the car (ball joint, wheel bearing, shock absorber, springs, bushings, etc.) can cause this condition. Worn components should be replaced with new ones. The worn tire should be balanced and possibly moved to a different location on the car. Occasionally, wheels that are out of balance will wear like this, but wheel imbalance usually shows up as bald spots between the outside edges and center of the tread.

Thanks for this. So here's my dilemma. The car is a 2011 mazda 3 hatchback GT with 17k miles.
The dealer did state that the rear left allignemt is a bit off and recomends allignment of that wheel ($90 charge). Now, if comparing your description to my stated issue.
That would only cause for the rear left to be cupped correct ?. If so, why would the rear right be cupped as well ?.
I'm trying to understand this but having a difficult time.
Also, I do not believe that these tires have "ever" been rotated. Could this also be the issue ?. I am the second owner by the way. I bought this car last year with 7k miles certified pre-owned.

 

[TheMuffinMan]

Rotating tires is a good thing to do to prevent odd wearing of the tires in any one direction. If the driver rear alignment is 'off', depending on how it's 'off' it could also mean the tracking with the passenger rear is off as well which could cause uneven wear on both tires.

Cupping is not going to occur from a car sitting. I'd have a full alignment done and rotate the tires.

At 17k miles I'm amazed they are worn down like that, I'm at 32k miles on my '13 Mazda3 and don't have any abnormal wear.

 

[11hatch]

Rotating tires is a good thing to do to prevent odd wearing of the tires in any one direction. If the driver rear alignment is 'off', depending on how it's 'off' it could also mean the tracking with the passenger rear is off as well which could cause uneven wear on both tires.

Cupping is not going to occur from a car sitting. I'd have a full alignment done and rotate the tires.

At 17k miles I'm amazed they are worn down like that, I'm at 32k miles on my '13 Mazda3 and don't have any abnormal wear.

The dealer had specified that it would be best to place the tires back to their original location prior rotating them over the weekend. So I went ahead and did just that.
The front tires are the two that are mostly worn. Both back tires (the two with the cupping issue) have a substantial amount of thread left so this is something that has me baffled in terms of cupped tires with more than enough thread left (almost look new).

 

[bootslxa]

Were your tires rotated ?. If so, it could be the same issue as I am dealing with (cupped tires).

I'm not certain what the problem with mine was. I know that they didn't rotate the tires. I took it back, he changed out the rotors and pads again...good as new. Now I don't feel like a public nuisance with my brakes squealing down the interstate at 70 mph

 

[sube]

Thanks for this. So here's my dilemma. The car is a 2011 mazda 3 hatchback GT with 17k miles.
The dealer did state that the rear left allignemt is a bit off and recomends allignment of that wheel ($90 charge). Now, if comparing your description to my stated issue.
That would only cause for the rear left to be cupped correct ?. If so, why would the rear right be cupped as well ?.
I'm trying to understand this but having a difficult time.
Also, I do not believe that these tires have "ever" been rotated. Could this also be the issue ?. I am the second owner by the way. I bought this car last year with 7k miles certified pre-owned.

Get an alignment and replace all four tires, the OEM tires were pretty junky to begin with.

Pat.

 

[ahardb0dy]

Our 2012 Mazda 3 19K miles, OEM Toyo tires and they have 5/32 tread, just had a tire patched and they measured the tread depth.

 

[tnax408]

So I brought my car into the dealer this morning and the result is that both rear tires are cupped.
This I believe is due to my car being parked for about two months without moving. I parked it when our first snow storm hit as many know that our stock tires are horrible in the snow.
Seems like now my only option is to either buy two new tires or change out all four for a new brand.
Ughhh.... So frustrating !
I try to solve one (tire) issue by not driving my car when there's snow on the ground and now created a new problem.
Darn it.

I had the same problem. After the tire rotation at 15k, I've had the same noise. The rotate without balancing the wheels, so in my case it prob happened at 10K and got worse. (they said I needed a balancing). Bought new tires at 25k, now at 29k, no problems. Its funny how I never had this problem before with my other cars, just with the dealership crappy service.

 

[Stoney05]

I brought my 3 into the dealer for an oil change yesterday and when I arrived I was asked if I wanted to do their "recommended" intermitance inspection along with wheel rotation, filter change, wheel alignment check and a few other things. I agreed and all was well.
Upon leaving the dealer I noticed a weird noise coming from the front wheels (not sure which), but decided to keep driving as this noise I was hearing is kind of faint and not an alarming sound.
After about 30 miles of driving I kept hearing this darn sound and decided to test out what it could be. After testing a few differnt driving patterns I came to the conclusion that it's the front brakes catching the rotors as I'm driving. It. At he's on every full rotation and will not go away no matter how I brake.
I called the dealer and explained what I'm dealing with at the moment since leaving their lot and I was told to head back so they can inspect the car.
Has anyone here experinced something similar to what I am going through after a dealer visit ?. What could have caused my brakes to catch the rotors after just a simple tire rotation ?.

I was really angry to hear this sound coming from my baby !. Only 17k miles on her, but she sounded like a run down car (almost).



Thanks

I took my car in to the dealership on the 27th. For the 35,000 mile checkup , they change the oil and rotated the tires lubricated the latches and all that.

Today I was driving and I heard a weird noise. It sounded like a clunking metal noise as I came to a complete stop at an intersection. I've pulled forward and the brakes made a grinding noise so I pulled off to the side of the road and looked at my brake calipers and pads.

They seemed fine so I drove away. my brakes were squeaking/grinding. After a few seconds the noise went away but now it feels like my brakes are being pressed slightly.

It's very noticeable when accelerating. This happened about 6:00 PM on the 29th. Mazda service department was closed and now I can't call until Monday.

Update: The noise is gone :001_unsure:

 

[Bullwhacker]

What I am about to mention is my opinion and experiences.
FIRST off I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER MAZDA AGAIN.

The jerks at the dealership where I bought my 2012 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.0 Skyactiv are nasty aholes and liars..

I took car in for their "free" oil changes and inspections; always was given a great condition report.

I rotated the tires around 3-4 thousand miles and have 28,000 on the car I also inspected the tire before putting them back on.

After a a short period of time after one rotation Jan 2015 I started to heard faintly then it got LOUD after a few weeks that "noise" everyone is writing about here.

Okay I've been a mechanic for a number of years and usually do my own work; BUT this is a new car and it still is covered by Mazdas warranty Bumper to Bumper; yea right what warranty..

So I thought a wheel bearing; really on a car this new, so I did a driving test to see it it was that; Nope not wheel bearings.

NOW the noise is loud enough I can't hear the engine.

I then inspect the suspension; nope all okay.

I rotate the tires again and yup the noise moved with the tires.

Okay so it is a "tire" problem.

The set of tires that used to be on the rear had some "feathering" or "cupping" strictly on the inside edge of the tires; NO WHERE ELSE.
This went from the edge of the tire and stopped at the first inside tread line.?? I thought. BOTH tires are exactly like this.

I thought alignment? Huh, I've not run into or done anything to knock the cars alignment out of spec.. So off to the shop and they put the car on the Hunter Alignment machine checking all four wheels; got a print out stating alignment is perfect??? WTH? Before I had the shop check the alignment I asked them do they do it on the shop floor or the alignment rack? I was told on the rack and I asked them was the rack level? They told me yes.

( remember if the rack or the floor where the alignment is done isn't level it preloads the suspension out of level and throws off the alignment when done and take off the alignment machine. That is how you can get pulling to one side.)

Okay you may be thinking why didn't I just run to the dealer?
Simple they want you to do that and charge you.

Okay so now I head to the dealer where I spent Tens of Thousands of dollars to them buying this "new" car.

I didn't tell them what I have done mentioned previously; I have in the past and it didn't turn out to be helpful, just caused more problems. Plus you have this you will KNOW immediately they are a bunch of liars as was my case.

Then lets now watch all the BS fly and boy did it fly.

First off the "manager" told me my tires are out of warranty 12 months 12,00 miles. I asked where it says that; in my owners manual.
Oh? I hold it up and asked him to show me; he does and points out how stupid I am.
Really? I ask this ahole..
The tires on the car are those 205x55x16R Bridgestone Turanza EL400 tires; I pointed out in the owner manual it states those tires have a SIX YEAR 60,000 mile warranty....

He blinks at me then states your warranty is void due to the aftermarket rims you have them on..
Really? You never mentioned anything about that in your previous vehicle inspections during those "free" oil changes and vehicle inspections?
The rims are aftermarket and they are at "factory" spec. dimensions etc.. The rims have nothing to do with the tire problem I told him and previous court cases back me up ( any defect not caused by a "modification" to the vehicle does not void any warranty)..
Again this ahole just blinked at me...

I asked why not just check the cars suspension and alignment to see if that is the problem.
Cha Ching I'd swear I hear..
He told me sure; $200.00 up front in case what every was found wasn't "warranty" related.
I looked at him with this WTF is going on.
I then pulled out my file and showed him documentation that everything is okay and has already been checked and the "defect" is the tires.
He would not budge on my forking over the $200.00 to do a diagnostic on a car still under warranty.

I wasn't yelling or even raising my voice but did see his employee's overhearing what was going on as well as a number of or lost customers ( who will more than likely tell their friends what they saw and heard ) walking out the door and pissed sales people losing their commission.

As I was leaving with no resolution to this situation I asked this ahole How much money have you just now lost from customers overhearing our "discussion" and leaving and also telling their friends about you and this dealership? As I was leaving I pulled my phone out of my pocket and told him smile you have been recorded....

I have since filed a complaint with consumer protection and other agency's.. I am also looking into a breach of contract ( failure to honor warranty ) law suit as well.

Here's what I have found out.

My car from Mazda has extreme negative camber on the rear end; THAT WILL account for the type of tire eating or cupping wear I have and maybe many thousands of others complaining about here and else where.

I had to buy two new tires ( Goodyear Eagle P SA 205x55x16R) and NO MORE NOISE, it is the tires after all and I still have them; with about 30-40,000 miles of life left on them,

I took the car to a custom alignment shop; the type racing autocrosser's and people who drop their cars low go to and the owner with decades of experience also confirmed what I suspected previously mentioned; the extreme negative camber. I was told this is a common problem with my car type from the manufacturer.
I am not suggestion you do what I did; I have the rear camber readjusted to not be so extreme and so far so good. Handling has not changed.

All Mazda WOULD HAVE TO DO IN MY OWN OPINION IS CHANGE THE CAMBER TO BE NOT SO SEVERE; COST VERY LITTLE - A TRIP TO THE ALIGNMENT RACK OR PUT OUT TO THE SHOPS "NEW" ALINEMENT SPECS.

The cost out of my pocket for all previously mentioned was around $600.00 dollars that I should have never had to spend.

 

[RugerRedhawk]

What I am about to mention is my opinion and experiences.
FIRST off I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER MAZDA AGAIN.

The jerks at the dealership where I bought my 2012 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.0 Skyactiv are nasty aholes and liars..

I took car in for their "free" oil changes and inspections; always was given a great condition report.

I rotated the tires around 3-4 thousand miles and have 28,000 on the car I also inspected the tire before putting them back on.

After a a short period of time after one rotation Jan 2015 I started to heard faintly then it got LOUD after a few weeks that "noise" everyone is writing about here.

Okay I've been a mechanic for a number of years and usually do my own work; BUT this is a new car and it still is covered by Mazdas warranty Bumper to Bumper; yea right what warranty..

So I thought a wheel bearing; really on a car this new, so I did a driving test to see it it was that; Nope not wheel bearings.

NOW the noise is loud enough I can't hear the engine.

I then inspect the suspension; nope all okay.

I rotate the tires again and yup the noise moved with the tires.

Okay so it is a "tire" problem.

The set of tires that used to be on the rear had some "feathering" or "cupping" strictly on the inside edge of the tires; NO WHERE ELSE.
This went from the edge of the tire and stopped at the first inside tread line.?? I thought. BOTH tires are exactly like this.

I thought alignment? Huh, I've not run into or done anything to knock the cars alignment out of spec.. So off to the shop and they put the car on the Hunter Alignment machine checking all four wheels; got a print out stating alignment is perfect??? WTH? Before I had the shop check the alignment I asked them do they do it on the shop floor or the alignment rack? I was told on the rack and I asked them was the rack level? They told me yes.

( remember if the rack or the floor where the alignment is done isn't level it preloads the suspension out of level and throws off the alignment when done and take off the alignment machine. That is how you can get pulling to one side.)

Okay you may be thinking why didn't I just run to the dealer?
Simple they want you to do that and charge you.

Okay so now I head to the dealer where I spent Tens of Thousands of dollars to them buying this "new" car.

I didn't tell them what I have done mentioned previously; I have in the past and it didn't turn out to be helpful, just caused more problems. Plus you have this you will KNOW immediately they are a bunch of liars as was my case.

Then lets now watch all the BS fly and boy did it fly.

First off the "manager" told me my tires are out of warranty 12 months 12,00 miles. I asked where it says that; in my owners manual.
Oh? I hold it up and asked him to show me; he does and points out how stupid I am.
Really? I ask this ahole..
The tires on the car are those 205x55x16R Bridgestone Turanza EL400 tires; I pointed out in the owner manual it states those tires have a SIX YEAR 60,000 mile warranty....

He blinks at me then states your warranty is void due to the aftermarket rims you have them on..
Really? You never mentioned anything about that in your previous vehicle inspections during those "free" oil changes and vehicle inspections?
The rims are aftermarket and they are at "factory" spec. dimensions etc.. The rims have nothing to do with the tire problem I told him and previous court cases back me up ( any defect not caused by a "modification" to the vehicle does not void any warranty)..
Again this ahole just blinked at me...

I asked why not just check the cars suspension and alignment to see if that is the problem.
Cha Ching I'd swear I hear..
He told me sure; $200.00 up front in case what every was found wasn't "warranty" related.
I looked at him with this WTF is going on.
I then pulled out my file and showed him documentation that everything is okay and has already been checked and the "defect" is the tires.
He would not budge on my forking over the $200.00 to do a diagnostic on a car still under warranty.

I wasn't yelling or even raising my voice but did see his employee's overhearing what was going on as well as a number of or lost customers ( who will more than likely tell their friends what they saw and heard ) walking out the door and pissed sales people losing their commission.

As I was leaving with no resolution to this situation I asked this ahole How much money have you just now lost from customers overhearing our "discussion" and leaving and also telling their friends about you and this dealership? As I was leaving I pulled my phone out of my pocket and told him smile you have been recorded....

I have since filed a complaint with consumer protection and other agency's.. I am also looking into a breach of contract ( failure to honor warranty ) law suit as well.

Here's what I have found out.

My car from Mazda has extreme negative camber on the rear end; THAT WILL account for the type of tire eating or cupping wear I have and maybe many thousands of others complaining about here and else where.

I had to buy two new tires ( Goodyear Eagle P SA 205x55x16R) and NO MORE NOISE, it is the tires after all and I still have them; with about 30-40,000 miles of life left on them,

I took the car to a custom alignment shop; the type racing autocrosser's and people who drop their cars low go to and the owner with decades of experience also confirmed what I suspected previously mentioned; the extreme negative camber. I was told this is a common problem with my car type from the manufacturer.
I am not suggestion you do what I did; I have the rear camber readjusted to not be so extreme and so far so good. Handling has not changed.

All Mazda WOULD HAVE TO DO IN MY OWN OPINION IS CHANGE THE CAMBER TO BE NOT SO SEVERE; COST VERY LITTLE - A TRIP TO THE ALIGNMENT RACK OR PUT OUT TO THE SHOPS "NEW" ALINEMENT SPECS.

The cost out of my pocket for all previously mentioned was around $600.00 dollars that I should have never had to spend.

So after 3 years and 28000 miles you needed an alignment and to replace the two of the cheap oem tires? Definitely sounds like an annoyance, but geez if I let stuff like that get me so upset, I think'd I'd have burst an aneurysm and died by now from all the actual significant issues that come with life.

Still if I were the dealer I would have applied the prorated warranty discount toward two replacement tires if you had been rotating them like you stated. They can be sneaky cheapskates for sure.