2004 to 2020 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,970 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2013 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD 2.0 L Skyactiv W i P




Motor/Drivetrain
- Corksport Short Ram Intake
- Dynotronics ECU Tuning Software - Quit, 7 months with no progress
- Corksport Axle Back Exhaust
- Optima Yellowtop
- MIT Hood Struts
- Corksport LED Engine Lamp (Removed, extra wiring in the engine bay and on the battery looked ghetto)
- Fumoto F106 Oil Drain Valve

Suspension/Wheels
(Werner) Heine & (Heinz) Remmen Sport Springs
Corksport Rear Sway Bar
Ultra Racing Strut Tower Brace
Ultra Racing 4 Point Front Lower Arm Bar
Ultra Racing 2 Point Rear Lower Arm Bar
TSW Mallory 20" x 8.5" w/Toyo Proxes ST II, 20/255/45 (Equipped)

Exterior/Lighting
- OEM Hood Visor
- OEM Roof Rails, Painted Black (Silver Default)
- Stainless Steel Fog Covers
- 6000k HIDS
- 5000k DRL and Fog Lights
- Hella Twin Super Tones
- Curt Hitch #C13127

Interior
- Chinese OBDII HUD
- Audio
- CX-5 Illuminated LED Door Sills (Blue)
-Blue LED Dome/Footwell Lighting
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
check your spelling my friend should be corksport not what you put.... on the other hand nice looking cx-5 i like!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Crespo

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,970 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Installed my C/S Rear sway bar. Noticed an immediate difference well worth the $$$. Originally C/S only had FWD instructions; but it was not specified. After I was about to return it (and dealer trying to charge 195 labor for fwd and 560 for awd) they put up some AWD instructions. The service manual call for a lot of extra disassembly compared to the C/S instructions. I was a bit weary of this at first but after installing it I can say they are safe and practical instructions.One thing though; the instructions say to loosen the bolts on the control arms to the end of the bolt (not to remove it); I food it basically impossible to get the sway bar bracket off; I could barely even get a ratched over the nut and didn't have enough room to turn it. Removing the bolts completely gave me ample room, even enough to get a torque wrench in there. It took me 5 hours but that was the first time I had messed with suspension like that and I ran into some issues (like the one aforementioned), including getting a socket stuck on a wheel lug because I grabbed one too large on accident. The stock endlinks are not straight. I guess this is the preload; I don't know enough o know if the angle is more than it should be. However even if the preload is more than what some would recommend, it still is a huge improvement over stock.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
975 Posts
Sooooo... all I'm going to say is this is going to be cool.

And I'm glad you got pictures of the underside.
Because.. now it all makes sense.


How is the AWD anyway on this thing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,266 Posts
Hard to tell for sure, is that adjustable? When I got mine for my 3 (totally different I know) I began with the softest setting on the end bolt holes. I had same issue with end links being far from straight. Drive it for a day or two like that and go over a couple speed bumps to try and settle the suspension some. They may straighten out for you. When I switched to the stiffest setting (inner bolt holes) the end links were perfectly straight after the install. Before switching it to stiff setting however, I also noticed the end links had straightened almost (if not) perfectly straight from settling and/or spirited cornering. Hope this helps, RSB is one of the best mods!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,970 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
The AWD is great, it's torque vectored. I can accelerate through "50" mph recommended curves on the highway at 80+ no problem, and now with the rsb it will be even better. I already noticed from the short drive home that I can acelrate hard thorugh a sharp turn with more foot on the throttle. Before I had to modulate it to keep the car from turning to wide; I would accelerate hard into a turn, about half way thorugh let off the gas, the car would do a little power slide to the correct direction then I'd power again (I can and do powerslide like this, because I can't really drift this car, not that I would wan't to kinda dangerous on roads). I expect now that I will have to power slide less for the same type of maneuver. I'm going to test it tonight. This car shares the same suspension as a mazda 3; it's just taller... there is a lot of potential here for handling, hopefully some power boosts come along I'll be set. As for the RSB the stiffer holes were actually blocked off saying not to use them. This could be because the CX-5 sit's higher (taller springs, even though I'm lowered), and really to actually use them you'd have to have longer links it seems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,970 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Ok, now that I got the beefy brackets on, I decided to try the stiffest setting. Firstly, my car is lowered; this changes the preload on the links. Well, the preload from being lowered is too much for the OEM links, and I broke one. I have replaced it and am using the softer setting instead. It is still much better with the stronger bracket. I will be looking into getting an adjustable link within the next 30 days, because I really liked the stiffer setting. That being said, anyone using a Corksport/JBR sway bar with oem ride height should be safe for any setting... however, if you are lowered count on using the softest setting until you get (longer) adjustable links to relieve some of the preload.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,970 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I thought you had a build thread on here.

I don't think I've seen anyone sheer an end link before. Any vendors, Moog, Whiteline, etc., making adjustable end links?


I was really impressed with the 155% setting. I'm sure the stiffer setting on the JBR bar is a hoot. Testing at night to get a feel, I was able to floor it (AWD) in first all the way through a 90 deg turn at an intersection with basically no tail dragging; in fact my tires screeched (but I still had control) and my ass didn't drag.
But Yea, unfortunately the inside of the link is plastic...Guess it was better to break than bend something. I already told Corksport and JBR what I found about that for reference so others don't make the same mistake. Haven't seen any links specifically for the cx-5 however, from brief searches I have found some that I can order by length and bolt (14mm). Also if there are any for the mazda 6 it will work, they share the same bars. Mazda 3's are 12mm, mazda 6/cx-5 14mm nuts for the endlinks. The brackets on the 3/cx-5/6 are all 14mm, so the hotckiss will fit all of them btw.

Right now I'm trying to get someone to post a picture of the oem link/sway bar angle so I can get an appropriate link to emulate that position. That way I will be able to minimize the chance of the bar swinging into the underbody. Also jbr released camber arms for the 3/6. I'm going to see if I can get my hands on a cx-5/6 rear upper arm at a local dealership to compare them, and see how different they are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
I think ive seen your cx5 on the 410 to 90e interchange a while back. I seen it and thought that looks pretty cool. Did you get rid of it?
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top