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Its not like I am new around here but I will be damned if I can’t find a good set of install instructions for the CS rear sway bar, even a JBR instruction set. I found a horrible Youtube video where the kid was struggling, then magically was done. Its more the correct tool to get the nuts off the stock bracket and getting the nuts onto the new bracket is what I am looking for. Look forward to hearing some insight on what you guys did. any pics of said tools would be appreciated as well
 

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Remove one or both of the rear springs. The service manual says to remove the right rear for easier access.
It is a lot easier to install the bar if you lower the rear subframe.
Use a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove and install the bracket nuts.
Bracket nuts are 16-19 ft/lbs, end link nuts are 34 - 40 ft/lbs.
Subframe nuts are 68-81 ft/lbs.
Lower control arm bolt is 64-77 ft/lbs.
 

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Yeah I read the CS install manual but I just couldn't get a ratchet on the nuts. figured there had to be some sort of trick out there.
although I did attempt this after adding the mid-pipe, and doing the front suspension and getting the rear prepped so maybe I was just done for the day.
guess I will just have to try again once my new adjustable endlinks arrive.

Thanks guys
 

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I had trouble removing and Installing the sway bar. I to just watched that same video ( kids installing at night ) and used the corksport instructions .

The most helpful tools which I had,bought or borrowed midway for this install were mid length socket set. The regular set did not reach while the deep sockets were to long( not enough room). You will need some stubby ratcheting wrenches and or the flex head ratcheting wrenches . Do yourself a favor and buy them at harbor freight with the 20% coupon . After I had those the install was a breeze.

Flex head socket wrench with mid size sockets would work great as well. I also considered getting the pass through socket set.
Any if these options will help.


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A flex head ratchet also works-for what it's worth, I used an offset wrench with a piece of pipe for extra torque. I also tried using a deep socket-I could've save me a few hours of swearing if I had just dropped the subframe. It is easier to remove the oem bar with the stock endlinks altogether, then proceed to install the aftermarket endlinks in reverse order (my endlinks had corroded to the point the Allen key had rounded). PB blaster is your friend. To torque, I used a crowfoot and wobble extension set with torque adapter and calculated (estimate) within the range of appropriate torque settings. Also, use anti-seize so the threads remain intact.

Yeah I read the CS install manual but I just couldn't get a ratchet on the nuts. figured there had to be some sort of trick out there.
although I did attempt this after adding the mid-pipe, and doing the front suspension and getting the rear prepped so maybe I was just done for the day.
guess I will just have to try again once my new adjustable endlinks arrive.

Thanks guys
 
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I found a horrible Youtube video where the kid was struggling, then magically was done.
I actually feel like those Youtube fellas working into the LATE NIGHT to get my RSB installed. Took me nearly 8 hours!! 🥵

Remove one or both of the rear springs. The service manual says to remove the right rear for easier access.
It is a lot easier to install the bar if you lower the rear subframe.
Use a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove and install the bracket nuts.
Bracket nuts are 16-19 ft/lbs, end link nuts are 34 - 40 ft/lbs.
Subframe nuts are 68-81 ft/lbs.
Lower control arm bolt is 64-77 ft/lbs.
After one attempt at reaching the RSB brackets, this was the route I went. I have no idea how anyone can install this bar without dropping the subframe.. More specifically, lowering the subframe a few inches so you have enough room to take the bracket nuts off.. not to mention installing a beefier aftermarket bracket where the sides of the bracket blocks access to the nut.

Have to give the JBR instructions credit here, they're the only ones I found that even suggests loosening the 2 nuts securing the subframe to the chasis. Although for me, it wasn't enough to just loosen them, I took them completely OFF. No worries though, the subframe will not drop on top of you. This will just give you an inch or two more room to work with... which was just enough to squeeze my flex-head socket wrench up there to tighten the nuts.

277634


277635
 

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It's not easy, but I just used a mid-length 14mm socket to fit in that spot. They are deep enough to fit over the thread and nut but shallow enough to fit a ratcheting wrench over it in there.

I then use a universal adapter on the mid-length socket and a torque wrench for the last couple of turns.
CK


 

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Cool.

If it doesn't rattle in the next 50 miles... you should be golden for a while.

They do require a retighten from time-to-time, especially that top nut, and some grease, if the bushings start creaking.
CK
 
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Does anyone have pictures of the oem RSB (on stock endlinks) by chance? I swore mine was tilted downward slightly, but can't remember... I was on my back looking up at it, and I was up all night with the install so my memory is fuzzy..

I have the Moog endlinks on, which is the same length as the stock endlinks, but my Progress sway bar is tilted down quite a bit.. Everything else is in the suspension is still 100% stock.

Went out driving all day yesterday, work, errands, etc... and honestly I forgot I'd installed this bar. And I was driving pretty hard at times too. Really didn't notice any difference. Maybe less lean in turns.. could be placebo too.

* pictures were taken after driving around all day
 

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The bar should be parallel to the subframe with the wheels down on level ground.
CK
 
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Does anyone have pictures of the oem RSB (on stock endlinks) by chance? I swore mine was tilted downward slightly, but can't remember... I was on my back looking up at it, and I was up all night with the install so my memory is fuzzy..

I have the Moog endlinks on, which is the same length as the stock endlinks, but my Progress sway bar is tilted down quite a bit.. Everything else is in the suspension is still 100% stock.

Went out driving all day yesterday, work, errands, etc... and honestly I forgot I'd installed this bar. And I was driving pretty hard at times too. Really didn't notice any difference. Maybe less lean in turns.. could be placebo too.

* pictures were taken after driving around all day
Are those picture based on your car being jacked up or down on the tires?
 

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Yea
Are those picture based on your car being jacked up or down on the tires?
All 4 tires are on the ground.. I went under & took the pics. If I have to get adjustable endlinks I will.. But I'm gonna wait until I put all the suspension parts in first before making any more adjustments.
 

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Yea

All 4 tires are on the ground.. I went under & took the pics. If I have to get adjustable endlinks I will.. But I'm gonna wait until I put all the suspension parts in first before making any more adjustments.
Are you planning on adding lowering springs?
 

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Yes, Racing Beat springs if they'll ever get here... been waiting 3 weeks for them already. Koni shocks on order too.. and of course they've been delayed as well.
This is how my end links are positioned after installing H&R springs and Koni SA dampers. I have Moog end links as well. Seems correct to me, so your links may straighten out as well once you lower it.
277647


277648

(sorry, not sure why the image was rotated 90 degrees)
 

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This is how my end links are positioned after installing H&R springs and Koni SA dampers. I have Moog end links as well. Seems correct to me, so your links may straighten out as well once you lower it.
Thanks, that's good to know. Once lowered a bit, maybe I won't need adjustable endlinks.. I'll wait n see. I'm tempted to try out whatever lowering springs anyone has in stock right now for the time being.. Just to see if the RSB will straighten out. Seems like anyone who has anything I want is either out of stock or back ordered.
 

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Thanks, that's good to know. Once lowered a bit, maybe I won't need adjustable endlinks.. I'll wait n see. I'm tempted to try out whatever lowering springs anyone has in stock right now for the time being.. Just to see if the RSB will straighten out. Seems like anyone who has anything I want is either out of stock or back ordered.
There was a guy on this forum that was selling some springs. I'm not sure if they're still available or not.
 
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There was a guy on this forum that was selling some springs. I'm not sure if they're still available or not.
Thanks for the heads up.. I'll see if he still has'em. I don't mind trying on a few different used springs to see which on works best.
 
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