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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, it's been a while. Been really busy, but I'm going to start throwing some more mods at my car. Just ordered the RMM and looking forward to a more raw feel.

There are two parts I'm eyeing at the moment; the CS Pulley, and the transmission mount.

Does anyone have any experience with these parts? Was it worth it? I had a GSR and 350z before this car and I feel like the car is a bit sloppy in comparison. Trying to tighten things up and speed up the revs a bit.

Thanks!
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT called Coffee.
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I'm considering the CS RMM.

I have the short shift kit and shifter bushings already. They made shifting more precise.
CK
 
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I have a CS RMM and it definitely improves things but at the cost of more interior noise and vibration. You need to have a tune option available so that idle speed can be increased to fix this.
I've heard that the Hardrace mount is good and doesn't transmit near as much noise to the cars interior.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have a CS RMM and it definitely improves things but at the cost of more interior noise and vibration. You need to have a tune option available so that idle speed can be increased to fix this.
I've heard that the Hardrace mount is good and doesn't transmit near as much noise to the cars interior.
Other than suspension, all my parts are CS and I'd like to stick with them if possible. The only tune I've heard of is OV, but I think Versatune does Miatas? I wonder if they will do the Mazda3 as well. I'm a bit weary of OV as I've read some pretty bad things regarding his customer service in the past.
 

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Other than suspension, all my parts are CS and I'd like to stick with them if possible. The only tune I've heard of is OV, but I think Versatune does Miatas? I wonder if they will do the Mazda3 as well. I'm a bit weary of OV as I've read some pretty bad things regarding his customer service in the past.
Not sure why you would buy an expensive part just because it has a particular name on it. There are a number of CS parts that are not as good as other less expensive comparable parts and there has been some questionable quality control also.
OV tunes has some new people handling the Mazda stuff and things seem to be a lot better there now.
 

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Go for OV Tune. I'm working on my first tune file now. Super excited!

CS is a good group of guys and a good company. Their parts, some parts, have some quality control issues that have or need addressing.

The RMM seems like a good piece. I am planning on getting it and increasing my idle to 900 or something.

The transmission mount was on the CS race car when they did the 24 Hour At Thunder Hill (I think that's what it's called) and it withstood that beating. Should be able to handle ordinary traffic..
CK
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Go for OV Tune. I'm working on my first tune file now. Super excited!

CS is a good group of guys and a good company. Their parts, some parts, have some quality control issues that have or need addressing.

The RMM seems like a good piece. I am planning on getting it and increasing my idle to 900 or something.

The transmission mount was on the CS race car when they did the 24 Hour At Thunder Hill (I think that's what it's called) and it withstood that beating. Should be able to handle ordinary traffic..
CK
Yeah I'm strongly considering just voiding my warranty and tuning the car. I saw they have a 91 octane tune for 20-30hp @6900 RPM. That looks super tempting. Especially for a measly 600 bucks.

I've seen some guys on here say you should get a SRI for the 2.5 tune, but everything I read in the past said that OV suggests the stock air box. Did that change?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not sure why you would buy an expensive part just because it has a particular name on it. There are a number of CS parts that are not as good as other less expensive comparable parts and there has been some questionable quality control also.
I guess it's part brand loyalty, part OCD. I mean I'm the kinda guy who bought a black 3 just to match the black 5 I bought my wife a couple years prior just to have matching cars in my driveway. I was originally going to buy a Focus ST.

Maybe it's flawed, but I like to do business with the same people when I've already had a good experience with them.
 

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I've seen some guys on here say you should get a SRI for the 2.5 tune, but everything I read in the past said that OV suggests the stock air box. Did that change?
I've heard Mat at OVT say that the OEM intake box can be somewhat restrictive on the 2.5. However, open pod filter type SRIs do tend to suck in a lot of underhood air, which is usually hot. High intake temps lead to a bit of power loss, so either way.....
The best way to go is either use an SRI with aftermarket enclosure using heat shielding and some way to pipe in cold outside air, or make a couple small holes in the OEM box to let more air in.
 

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The best way to go is either use an SRI with aftermarket enclosure using heat shielding and some way to pipe in cold outside air, or make a couple small holes in the OEM box to let more air in.[/QUOTE]

Also, the paper filter is restrictive too.
 

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The transmission mount was on the CS race car when they did the 24 Hour At Thunder Hill (I think that's what it's called) and it withstood that beating. Should be able to handle ordinary traffic..
CK
Yeah the mount should hold up fine. The OEM part seems like its made of play-doh in comparison. What I would be more concerned about is long term survivability of all the plastic bits and pieces in the car. Plenty of stuff to vibrate loose everywhere and vibrate it will, in spades....just wait until you start it.... :surprise:
 

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Automatic kickdown switch activation @ 5000RPM, which the rpm needle lagged for a second and none with the K&N panel filter.
Uhhhhh.....not much of a test really?
Real testing with actual flow meters say different.....the filters can flow more air than the engine can pull, and no tune will increase that flow rate significantly. You would need to make major mechanical changes to increase intake flow to any great extent. If there was actually a difference, you could see it easily by reading the MAF sensor output and looking for a flow increase with the aftermarket filter. There is no difference whatsoever between an OEM filter and aftermarket filters. The problem is K&N filters have larger pores in the filter media, so more fine dust gets through.:surprise:
 

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Just installed the JBR 80 duro RMM and the car rattles like hell at every RPM under load. It is marginally acceptable going along with very light throttle and acceleration while in low RPMs is unbearable. The car is way better as far as feeling connected and there is no wheel hop but how often am i going to come on to it to have that? I have a Borla axle back installed and that noise comes right in to the cabin now. Can't listen to music. Having said this, it's great when I want to drive it hard. I have the CS short shift kit and bushings and the shifts are not any better after the RMM. It's supposed to get better over time but I don't think it will improve enough. I wonder if the 70 duro would have been better but I can't see it being much better. I need something a little stiffer than stock because the stock one sucks which is why I was looking to improve it. It would be good to hear reports of others that installed different ones and what their experience is. Well, I have the Progress swaybar and GRP end links to install this weekend. I think that will be a better experience after installation. :)
 

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Yeah, 70 would be a lot better. 80 durometer is more like a solid mount for racing. :surprise: The CS mounts do transmit some vibration but its mostly only at idle, and that can be fixed by upping the idle speed slightly. Once you are moving you don't really feel it.
 
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