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I bought some closed cell foam strips, used for insulating windows at the hardware store the other day. It has adhesive on one side. I lined three sides with the stuff to seal the rear side where the lid meets the box. Also placed some in the small gap where the intake meets the box, so as to seal off any hot air from the engine side. Finally since I have washers in place to open the inlet more, the port isn't sealed up. Without anything to seal it engine bay air can make It's way into the box. So I just used some aluminum foil tape on the sides of the inlet port. I know there's an actual name for the stuff but it's used on dryer ducts and such. Its not that pretty but its the best I can do without cutting open the box to make another port, which maybe an option in the future. I've got the 2.0L so I guess it's sufficient for now. Keep the mods and suggestions coming! After these tweaks I don't feel like I my money was a complete waste anymore lol
 

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I added some aluminum foil tape (or whatever it's called) to the sides of my box to seal off the air inlet from the engine bay. Added some closed cell foam to the inside edges of the lid so it compresses when shut. Also added a piece to where the intake enters the box to further seal it from the engine side. I think I'm done foolin' around with mine for awhile but I like to see and read other ideas. I finally feel like this box/intake wasn't a complete waste of money now.
 

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That was a pretty good idea. Sealing up the sides of the air inlet, and other gaps, and thus creating more suction to draw air in from the front opening.
CK
 

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What kind of material is that?
Its a length of 2" square foam weather strip insulation. I cut a 1" deep slice lengthwise down the center on one side and tucked it in so there is a collar all the way around on both sides.
 

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here is my work... since Im broke from buying the car, decided to do like I do in motorcycles, work with the stock airbox.
1- heat shield
2- take out the charcoal filter
3- use silicone to seal, make airbox more tight in all junctions.
4- the stock one, after the ram ir is a mesh for water, I sealed it, so all air goes into the box. Gorilla duct tape

all box is wrapped. this morning I noticed, going to work that the outside diference vs intake was +3 to +5c is like a 80km h road. before was 10C+ allways

also the heat soak is a bit slower....

no notable power, just very small more response in small throttle openings... but in general more responsive, this car when is hot, you feel it... my subaru did not care about it...

yesterday was a very hot day36C very humid, and IAT was 42, before a day like that was like 49-50C
 

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here is my work... since Im broke from buying the car, decided to do like I do in motorcycles, work with the stock airbox.
1- heat shield
2- take out the charcoal filter
3- use silicone to seal, make airbox more tight in all junctions.
4- the stock one, after the ram ir is a mesh for water, I sealed it, so all air goes into the box. Gorilla duct tape

all box is wrapped. this morning I noticed, going to work that the outside diference vs intake was +3 to +5c is like a 80km h road. before was 10C+ allways

also the heat soak is a bit slower....

no notable power, just very small more response in small throttle openings... but in general more responsive, this car when is hot, you feel it... my subaru did not care about it...

yesterday was a very hot day36C very humid, and IAT was 42, before a day like that was like 49-50C
Interesting... if I ever go back to the stock intake i'll consider sealing it at all the loose joints.

Since we are talking about intake temps and heat soak, here is some purely anecdotal data from my first autocross event. I started monitoring temps after the third run. Hood was opened after each run. Like I said this is not scientific at all since there was no control group (ie stock intake). Temperature was in the high 90's.
 

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where ever you have connections you need to use silicone, and leaks of air...

my car had changed, that you can feel it.... before was 50C IAT on lights now, it gets to 45C... but as soon you get moving the difference is +2 to +5C before was +10 to +12C, this is during the day.

the car liked a lot this work, and for 55usd... and silicone..... worth every penny.
 

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Revisiting a 2 yr old post to start modifying my CS box. Has anyone plumbed air straight into the box? I see snaking something around the radiator as an option.
 

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Last time I checked, the intake temperature on my 2.0L was the same as the outside ambient temperature while driving on the highway in hot weather. This was with the OEM air box configuration. Can't get any better than that.
 

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Mine is usually 3 degrees Fahrenheit above ambient while on the highway. I can argue with results, stock is probably best.
 

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This is the difference I'm seeing after wrapping in Thermaflect (the inside lid top isn't wrapped...may do later) and using nylon spacers to lift up the opening like E-roc did.

278100

278098
278099
 

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If I do it again, I'd spend a few more bucks to make it look better. I definitely should have bought heat gun for the project. Luckily its not very noticeable. I first had to relocate the horn to the passenger side. There are a few threads on how to do this without removing your whole bumper. I made a cardboard cutout of the shape I wanted then traced it on a sheet of abs plastic. I bent the sides and contours with a blow dryer and mini torch. Once I got the general shape I maneuvered the air scoop into place and used hot glue for the joints. I say maneuvered because I didn't remove the bumper, so I couldn't glue the joints until it was installed. Using a rag, a spray bottle of water and my mini torch I heated the plastic to bend it, then sprayed it with water to cool and retain the shape. There are some YouTube videos on how to shape abs plastic.
DSC_0522.JPG DSC_0523.JPG
 

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If I do it again, I'd spend a few more bucks to make it look better. I definitely should have bought heat gun for the project. Luckily its not very noticeable. I first had to relocate the horn to the passenger side. There are a few threads on how to do this without removing your whole bumper. I made a cardboard cutout of the shape I wanted then traced it on a sheet of abs plastic. I bent the sides and contours with a blow dryer and mini torch. Once I got the general shape I maneuvered the air scoop into place and used hot glue for the joints. I say maneuvered because I didn't remove the bumper, so I couldn't glue the joints until it was installed. Using a rag, a spray bottle of water and my mini torch I heated the plastic to bend it, then sprayed it with water to cool and retain the shape. There are some YouTube videos on how to shape abs plastic.
View attachment 278123 View attachment 278124
Much appreciated. Looks good and I definitely do not want to drop my bumper again...
 

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