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Really like the feel of these tires (235/40ZR-18) on 8" wide wheels. The car feels exceptionally planted in turns. No harshness like OEM and much quieter.

View attachment 283204
I had a sent of Conti ExtremeContact on an old Accord and they transformed the car. This tire is ever so slightly lower diameter than the stock, is it noticeable? Did you consider 245/40R18 too? Gives a smidge more sidewall for potholes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I had a sent of Conti ExtremeContact on an old Accord and they transformed the cars. This tire is ever so slightly lower diameter than the stock, is it noticeable? Did you consider 245/40R18 too? Gives a smidge more sidewall for potholes.
Can't say I noticed the difference in diameter. I figured 235 would be the limit since at the time I thought I'd lower too. I'd say what is noticeable so far is slightly increased rolling resistance coming to a stop. Worth the trade-off for better handling in my book, but that's about as far as I'd want to push it width-wise.

Now I just need to figure out that persistent knock near the left front tire when I go over large bumps or cracks ever since hitting that massive pothole. They've replaced the wheel bearing, damper/strut, upper mount, lower control arm, and sway bar links on that side, and that damn knock/grind still happens if I'm going fast enough (20+MPH). FWIW, the last 2 parts made the biggest improvement since the pothole "accident." If anyone has any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate them. I think I'm done with this particular dealer, unfortunately.
 

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Try a dedicated frame/alignment shop. They may have a little better insight.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Now I just need to figure out that persistent knock near the left front tire when I go over large bumps or cracks ever since hitting that massive pothole. They've replaced the wheel bearing, damper/strut, upper mount, lower control arm, and sway bar links on that side, and that damn knock/grind still happens if I'm going fast enough (20+MPH). FWIW, the last 2 parts made the biggest improvement since the pothole "accident." If anyone has any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate them. I think I'm done with this particular dealer, unfortunately.
Check the sway bar mounts up inside near the steering rack and check the sway bar positioning.
If possible, use a jack and compress the control arm fully and check the clearance between the end link and the body. If something is bent in slightly or if the sway bar is off center the lower end of the end link can hit the edge as shown in the picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Check the sway bar mounts up inside near the steering rack and check the sway bar positioning.
If possible, use a jack and compress the control arm fully and check the clearance between the end link and the body. If something is bent in slightly or if the sway bar is off center the lower end of the end link can hit the edge as shown in the picture.
This sounds really on point. It occasionally makes that particular popping sound which I've been calling a knock, but that open part of the body looks like the perfect opening to create that kind of noise. And your explanation might also account for why it makes that sound on sharp turns too.

Hopefully this fixes the slight vibration at about 55 MPH too, though for that I may need a more precise balancing than my install shop did.

Thank you for the insight! Will report back.
 

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This sounds really on point. It occasionally makes that particular popping sound which I've been calling a knock, but that open part of the body looks like the perfect opening to create that kind of noise. And your explanation might also account for why it makes that sound on sharp turns too.
Did they tighten the top nut on the strut properly, and grease the strut bearing in the upper mount? Either of those will make noises on bumps and turns.
Hopefully this fixes the slight vibration at about 55 MPH too, though for that I may need a more precise balancing than my install shop did.

Thank you for the insight! Will report back.
Road Force balanced, properly match mounted, get it below 10 lbs......if that doesn't do it, balance is not the problem. Could be a tire or a rim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did they tighten the top nut on the strut properly, and grease the strut bearing in the upper mount? Either of those will make noises on bumps and turns.

Road Force balanced, properly match mounted, get it below 10 lbs......if that doesn't do it, balance is not the problem. Could be a tire or a rim.
Probably not given their track record. I was going to see if Geico will let me take it to the bigger dealer as part of the same claim. At least most of the expensive stuff has been swapped out and covered already. The control arm alone for the turbo is something ridiculous like $600.
 

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These new Plus versions of DWS06's are getting strong positive feedback compared to the prior generation.
Top tire up there with the Michelin AS4 and company.
 

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We had the earlier version of the DWS06 on our Accord. I was hoping to avoid putting snow tires on it. The first time The Woman Of My Dreams drove them in the snow, she told me to put Blizzaks on her car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Road Force balanced, properly match mounted, get it below 10 lbs......if that doesn't do it, balance is not the problem. Could be a tire or a rim.
I have to wait a week, but have a proper appointment to have this done. The old guy at the shop mentioned indexing for an additional $60. Sounds like the matching part? I'll have him take a look at the sway bar mount and print out that picture for him. He said they'd take a look. A Kia dealer of all places, but at least it's my side of town and I get free shuttle service. And Geico said they'll cover as long as it's a different part. Onward...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
We had the earlier version of the DWS06 on our Accord. I was hoping to avoid putting snow tires on it. The first time The Woman Of My Dreams drove them in the snow, she told me to put Blizzaks on her car.
Yea, I don't know if I would get these if I lived where most of my family resides in the Northeast US. Here in NC where it's 90F like today for long stretches, I figured it made more sense.
 

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The old guy at the shop mentioned indexing for an additional $60. Sounds like the matching part?
Balancing on a Hunter Road Force machine should be about $100 - 110USD.
Indexing should not be extra. Thats part of mounting the new tires on the rims. There are two dots on the tires that mark the heaviest and lightest part of the tire. Those dots should be aligned so that either the lightest part of the tire is aligned with the heaviest part of the rim or vice versa. The tech should match mount if there is an issue, that is, move the tire on the rim until the wheel is properly balanced to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Balancing on a Hunter Road Force machine should be about $100 - 110USD.
Indexing should not be extra. Thats part of mounting the new tires on the rims. There are two dots on the tires that mark the heaviest and lightest part of the tire. Those dots should be aligned so that either the lightest part of the tire is aligned with the heaviest part of the rim or vice versa. The tech should match mount if there is an issue, that is, move the tire on the rim until the wheel is properly balanced to spec.
I'll look around for a better deal in the interim. I can't say why they charge separately for indexing, but they are listed as a certified Road Force installer on the Hunter website. I think I'll try another Discount Tire this morning. Hate the idea of driving for a week unbalanced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Balancing on a Hunter Road Force machine should be about $100 - 110USD.
Indexing should not be extra. Thats part of mounting the new tires on the rims. There are two dots on the tires that mark the heaviest and lightest part of the tire. Those dots should be aligned so that either the lightest part of the tire is aligned with the heaviest part of the rim or vice versa. The tech should match mount if there is an issue, that is, move the tire on the rim until the wheel is properly balanced to spec.


Discount Tire worked well for $94. No more vibrating at 55 MPH. Bit of a catch though. The problematic front left inside of the wheel was caked in shiny thick black grease. The tech thought it was because of a cracked axel boot maybe, but I can feel the grease coming off this part:

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I figure the grease itself could have caused the vibrating. Passenger side is bone dry. Axle issue?
 

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I was also very pleased with Continental tyres as well on my previous car. Summer tyres were Continental SportContact 5 225/45/17, and the winter tyres were Continental WinterContact TS850, same dimension; 225/45/17. The tyres were relatively soft and the ride was excellent with minimal vibrations and noise. Handling was also pretty good. The only downside to the summer tyres was that they wore out quite quickly (2, maybe 3 seasons max). On my Mazda now I have Bridgestone Turanza and Blizzak (215/45/18) but I will definitely replace them with Contis when the time comes. Also, I've driven a lot of different cars throughout the years with various tyres (Michelin, Sava, Goodyear, Nokian, Hankook etc.), but I've always found Contis to be the best choice.
Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I was also very pleased with Continental tyres as well on my previous car. Summer tyres were Continental SportContact 5 225/45/17, and the winter tyres were Continental WinterContact TS850, same dimension; 225/45/17. The tyres were relatively soft and the ride was excellent with minimal vibrations and noise. Handling was also pretty good. The only downside to the summer tyres was that they wore out quite quickly (2, maybe 3 seasons max). On my Mazda now I have Bridgestone Turanza and Blizzak (215/45/18) but I will definitely replace them with Contis when the time comes. Also, I've driven a lot of different cars throughout the years with various tyres (Michelin, Sava, Goodyear, Nokian, Hankook etc.), but I've always found Contis to be the best choice.
Cheers!
Same. I even prefer these to the Michelin A/S 4s on my previous car. A better all-rounder, IMO.
 

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I found these tires to be too soft and squirmy for my preferences. Mich Pilot Sport AS performed much better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I found these tires to be too soft and squirmy for my preferences. Mich Pilot Sport AS performed much better.
That's how I felt about the Pilot Sports. Can't go wrong with either, tbh. But I do 100% (now) agree about going with Road Force balancing.
 

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Yea, I don't know if I would get these if I lived where most of my family resides in the Northeast US. Here in NC where it's 90F like today for long stretches, I figured it made more sense.
Even in Albany snow tires become uncommon, but the nurse I live with is not very confident driving in the snow. I could drive her to work but then I couldn't go skiing. When I had to drive all over Vermont and the Adirondacks for work I always had winter tires, but I wouldn't bother now except skiing. I wouldn't even think about it in NC.
 
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