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Aspiring Mad Scientist
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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Nah, it seems like the main structural parts of the car are fine as my alignment was unaffected. I let go of the steering wheel at 65mph on the highway just to check, car tracks straight as an arrow. The crumple zone and the hood hinge and latch are the main damaged parts, and a couple extra dings and dents elsewhere that the insurance adjuster will be taking a look at Tuesday morning.

The crash occurred ~220ft east of Hill Ave. on Colorado Blvd. in Pasadena while traffic was completely stopped except for her and me (~30mph and <5mph respectively). Fault is a little hard to determine in this case but since she was not using the bike lane correctly (as far as my DMV research goes, anyways...) I believe I have some leverage to work with.

The chase car is an M3, yes. Won't be driving with him for a while though during this transition time (moving, repairs, etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Yes, and going unsafely fast, to make a long story short.

Seidner's has been kind enough to take what essentially amounts to "hospital pics" while the frame is being pulled straight... unfortunately that also means I need to schedule an alignment this week to make sure the frame pull didn't affect anything else.

 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
I will give them a call, thanks! I think the Evo 2 Plus would have to go in the passenger side (I'm a little too small) but it would work. Thanks man! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Now that the car is back, it's time to continue ironing out the kinks in my car setup!

I'm getting real sick and tired of the rear tires poking out from the fender -- this wasn't a problem with the old RE760's being that they ran narrow, and didn't actually poke -- but the 255 PSS are stupid wide and they are shanking themselves on the inside of my rear left fender, which no longer has any paint on the interior metal. :shocked:

The solution (hopefully) to this problem is adjustable toe links:

MazdaSpeed 3 / Mazda 3 CorkSport Rear Toe Arms

My plan is to crank my rear LCA's as far inwards as they go (giving max toe out), then shorten these toe links to bring the toe back to zero. With any luck, I can push the rear tires 2mm inwards and run the same -2.0 camber as before, giving me just the little extra clearance I need to stop rubbing my rear fenders. :yes:

Parts should be here by the weekend!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
So... before putting the toe links I thought I might give the Tri-Point RSB another shot... and ended up with this.



Fail. Won't be buying CS endlinks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
No, thread was too soft to function. The nut started stretching the thread around 44 ft-lbs of torque and had basically scraped it off the stud by 50 ft-lbs. I know car design nowadays is all about reducing safety factors to save weight and cost, but this is just poor. I'm a design engineer too, when I went to tighten the endlinks I expected to not have any problems as long as I stayed below 60 ft-lbs.

So yes, Raz, I've bought a pair of Tri-Point endlinks. I will eventually get that Tri-Point RSB back on, and at that point I'll finish the toe-link/LCA shortening subproject that I didn't get to start. I took a look at my rear subframe and it certainly looks like I have 2-3mm of clearance to gain with my approach. I was going to bump up rear camber to 2.2deg as well, so 3-4mm total gain and I'm praying the car will stop its annoying rear fender rub. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #53
H'ok, a weekend's worth of work, and my poking rear left wheel is finally dealt with. @DomTheGhost and I spent several hours tackling my rear subframe with the addition of a new pair of Corksport toe links:



Before anyone says anything, yes, I hope these don't strip out. That would be hilariously bad. I've still yet to call them to see how they intend to handle the stripped endlinks.

Rehash of the story: For whatever reason, my rear left wheel has always poked out a nice 1/8" more than the rear right. It also rubs in the canyons, so my plan was to use the eccentric bolts that normally control rear toe to shove the LCA as far inwards as it would go, then use the toe links to compensate and zero the toe back out. The end result should be effectively increased wheel offset in the rear left, making the car symmetrical.

So this is the right side of the car, which remains unchanged:



And the left side. You can kind of see that the left eccentric is more "down" than "in" at the moment, and that's where the gains are to be made.



The toe links themselves seem OK well built, the steel is pretty beefy but the blue powdercoating does not hold up to repeated tool use.



After moving the eccentric as far in as possible, we shortened the left side toe link to try and re-zero the toe. I discovered later we weren't even close lol, it was in the neighborhood of 0.5deg toe in. :stuart: Seems like I got the 2-3mm of inward movement I asked for though!



With that done, I paid for what I pray is the last alignment I'll be doing for a long time. The new specs are -2.5F/-2.2R camber, and -0.05F/0.00R toe. The increased camber gave me a little more clearance as well as a last-ditch effort to increase rear grip for the Tri-Point RSB I was about to put back on.



That's more like it!



I also discovered while under the car that I'm seriously out of room in the rear right haha. Not sure how you're supposed to fit 18x10 back here without poking out a good amount of wheel.



In any case, with that done, the Tri-Point endlinks and RSB are now on the car (sorry no pics) and I continued fine-tuning my fenders to get everything squared up. It's hard to show until you're here in person but the fender widths, contours and angles are all symmetrical left/right now, and the wheels' relationship to the fender is also symmetrical. Took a few hours just pulling, pushing, re-mounting till it fit just right. Here's to not getting hit a third time lol.




And because there's no point in modding without seeing results, I went out last night to test, test, test. The toe links worked! The rear left no longer rubs before the rear right -- if it rubs, it's because I hit a massive bump mid-corner at speed and honestly I'm not too worried about that.

I've also gotten the Tri-Point RSB to finally work for me. Between several factors -- 36psi rear tires, -2.2 camber, running the endlinks as short as possible (somewhat softening the effects of the bar) and softening the dampers to 16F/24R -- I was able to compensate for the stiffness of the Tri-Point bar and improve the grip balance all around. On-braking behavior is only slightly more lively than with the CS 24mm bar, and that I can deal with. I just have to pre-emptively wind out the steering before braking hard mid-corner. My slight on-power understeer is all gone! The outside front and outside rear started chirping at the same time mid-corner and a flick of the wheel steps the tail out enough to round the apex. Really cool behavior.

Total of setup changes:

Corksport toe links
Rear left wheel shifted inwards 2-3mm
Tri-Point rear sway bar
Tri-Point rear endlinks
Camber -2.5F/-2.2R
Toe -0.05F/-0.00R
Tire pressures 37F/36R
Dampers 16F/24R (clicks from full hard)



Where to go from here: Needs more aero! I'm most likely going to try fitting the Chargespeed lip to my front bumper in a few months, and after that it's time for a taller rear lip to balance it out. Any suggestions/help finding a taller, more extended polyurethane lip will be appreciated!
 

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You mentioned 36 psi in the rear but what do you run in the front? Pressures is something I havent yet played with on these DW's since im still in love with the amazing increase in grip all around lol
 

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Discussion Starter #56
...37 psi, as written.

Tire pressures don't carry between different tires anyways, so please don't use my info for anything other than if you happen to run PSS in the future as well. Based on what other PSS users have discovered the sweet spot of the tire for a moderately heavy loading (BMW M3's, E36 to E92) is roughly in the 35-37psi range. I don't really know anything else about the tire other than the handling balance is easily tweaked by dropping rear tire pressure.



Short note about damper tuning: As I thought, 16F/24R is probably the setting to go on my car. For kicks I went stiffer, to 12F/20R, and drove it like that for half a day, the car literally feels like it would rather not stay on the ground. Seems to be a front end problem, the rear end damping doesn't seem to affect around-town feel, only weight shifting. In any case, while I figure out if it's worth tackling, the car is back on 16F/24R.
 

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...37 psi, as written.

Tire pressures don't carry between different tires anyways, so please don't use my info for anything other than if you happen to run PSS in the future as well. Based on what other PSS users have discovered the sweet spot of the tire for a moderately heavy loading (BMW M3's, E36 to E92) is roughly in the 35-37psi range. I don't really know anything else about the tire other than the handling balance is easily tweaked by dropping rear tire pressure.



Short note about damper tuning: As I thought, 16F/24R is probably the setting to go on my car. For kicks I went stiffer, to 12F/20R, and drove it like that for half a day, the car literally feels like it would rather not stay on the ground. Seems to be a front end problem, the rear end damping doesn't seem to affect around-town feel, only weight shifting. In any case, while I figure out if it's worth tackling, the car is back on 16F/24R.
I'm confused. Wouldn't 1 be the softest and 32 be the hardest? So you went softer but you said stiffer?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
BC convention puts 1 as hardest and 32 as softest, so 16/24 is softer than 12/20. Silly, yes. That's why I always write "clicks from hard" in my longer posts.
 
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