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*The Electrician*
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Am I to understand correctly that not 1 aftermarket company has given the 2014+ Mazda 3 a proper cold air intake and we only have short rams to choose from?
 

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AEM has an intake that seems to go down in front of the wheel behind the grill. Sort of like an SRI but longer. Only for the 2.0l though. I think WeaponR has a similar part for the 2.5....$320US.:surprise:
The problem with this design is the height of the intake. Its very low and prone to sucking up water.
 

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Injen is the only company to make a CAI for Mazda 3... Everyone else has a shortram. I ended up using a JBR and putting in the bottom half of my factory airbox back in... haven't done any IAT test so who knows if it works.

 

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Mazda n00b
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AEM has an intake that seems to go down in front of the wheel behind the grill. Sort of like an SRI but longer. Only for the 2.0l though...
For the '17 model?
I only see a short ram on their site.
I like how it incorporates the little factory scoop, too.


Injen make a cold air intake for the 2014+ Mazda3. I have one on my car...
Sounds good!
Any pics? Or item/model number?
I'm not finding it.
 

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Yeah, but all of these are just variations of the short ram, not a full cold air intake that draws air from a source that is not directly under the hood next to the engine or behind the radiator.
For the 2.0 only-
https://www.aemintakes.com/air_intake/2016/mazda/3/2.0l
Are the 2016 and 2017 motors the same?

It looks like this link is for a 2016 with manual transmission only.
But like you said, might not be a true CAI either.
 

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Should fit the 2017. However, the intake end is really low, like right behind the fog light bezel low, prime location to suck up water from every puddle. It doesn't take a lot to hydrolock a motor.
None of these things really do much for your engine. Air flow is not increased, IATs are not lower, in fact usually they are higher due to heat soak of unprotected components located right behind the radiator. Lots of noise for a lot of money. Best bet if you must have an intake is an SRI (doesn't matter which) with an insulated and properly vented enclosure.
 

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*The Electrician*
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Should fit the 2017. However, the intake end is really low, like right behind the fog light bezel low, prime location to suck up water from every puddle. It doesn't take a lot to hydrolock a motor.
None of these things really do much for your engine. Air flow is not increased, IATs are not lower, in fact usually they are higher due to heat soak of unprotected components located right behind the radiator. Lots of noise for a lot of money. Best bet if you must have an intake is an SRI (doesn't matter which) with an insulated and properly vented enclosure.
While all of that is true, you can do things to protect a CAI from hydrolock, including cutting the intake piping to allow the filter to sit higher in the fender well. Filter covers work too, oh and there is the all important if you don't know how deep it is don't drive thru it, but that requires common sense, something society no longer has lol. I didn't ever want a CAI just was surprised nobody had made a proper one for our 2014+ Mazda 3's. I guess Mazda owners are less likely to mod?

@arathol you did an SRI, so quit making fun of the rest of us :p for wanting expensive noises from our cars lol. But seriously, with the DBW throttle have you noticed any improvement to throttle response after installing the SRI? What im wondering is would an SRI be worth it simply for ease of rev match downshifting. I find there is more lag in the throttle than I want when rev match downshifting and normally in my previous cable throttle vehicles an SRI made for quicker rev matching. Has that been the case for your DBW Mazda 3?
 

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the part number from Injen is SP6065P (I believe the black painted one is SP6065BLK)

this is a picture of it installed


hydrolock isn't a concern for me since i live in phoenix, where water evaporates before it hits the ground, and i don't own a mid 2000s vw stanced golf with dapper stickers on it, so my car doesn't sit 1.5" off the pavement and suck up water either
 

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Also, another point RE: Injen, their cold air intakes tend to throw a CEL from leaning out the engine if you let the car idle for too long (like 10+ minutes at a time). Found that out on the 405 at 6:30pm on my last trip to Los Angeles. But aside from that I've had no issues whatsoever since I don't ever just let the car sit. I've driven through some puddles after a rainstorm just fine, but I would do my best to avoid any large amounts of standing water.
 

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*The Electrician*
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also, another point RE: Injen, their cold air intakes tend to throw a CEL from leaning out the engine if you let the car idle for too long (like 10+ minutes at a time). Found that out on the 405 at 6:30pm on my last trip to Los Angeles. But aside from that I've had no issues whatsoever since I don't ever just let the car sit. I've driven through some puddles after a rainstorm just fine, but I would do my best to avoid any large amounts of standing water.
That's good to know, definitely not buying one from Injen now, I do alot of idle time and that sounds like a recipe for disaster. I wonder if that's why everyone else decided to only sell a short ram intake.
 
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To be fair though, my morning/afternoon commutes comprise 9.5 miles over the course of 40-55 minutes and I've never had a problem during those. It's only if the car is literally standing still and not moving at all like in a driveway or parking lot.
 

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While all of that is true, you can do things to protect a CAI from hydrolock, including cutting the intake piping to allow the filter to sit higher in the fender well. Filter covers work too, oh and there is the all important if you don't know how deep it is don't drive thru it, but that requires common sense, something society no longer has lol. I didn't ever want a CAI just was surprised nobody had made a proper one for our 2014+ Mazda 3's. I guess Mazda owners are less likely to mod? @arathol you did an SRI, quit making fun of the rest of us for wanting expensive noises from our cars lol. But seriously, with the DBW throttle have you noticed any improvement to throttle response after installing the SRI? What im wondering is would an SRI be worth it simply for ease of rev match downshifting. I find there is more lag in the throttle than I want when rev match downshifting and normally in my previous cable throttle vehicles an SRI made for quicker rev matching. Has that been the case for your DBW Mazda 3?
Yeah you can cut it, but then whats the point of buying it? That thing cost a fortune....:surprise:
And yeah, I do have an Injen on my car. I put it on just to tinker with it. Its enclosed in a modified Corksport airbox too. The aim is to keep IATs down. So far, in normal driving conditions IATs are usually with 4 or 5 degrees of ambient even in 90° weather, and with a lot of full throttle driving IATs are pretty close to ambient, within a degree or so. :smile2:
There really isn't any increase in air flow, no real power gains, just less power loss from hot underhood air. I made a couple changes tonight for maybe improving outside airflow into the box, didn't have time to test it though.
From a few days ago when it was hot and humid in the afternoon, just driving around town IATs were hovering at 5-6° above ambient.

I don't see any real difference in throttle response. The OEM setup is actually pretty efficient and I don't think just an SRI will do much to change that. Any useful improvements need to be done at the ECU. OVTunes does offer a much improved throttle response as part of their tune package though. :laugh2:
 

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*The Electrician*
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
bleh, for my purposes warranty>tuning so I guess im stuck with throttle lag.
 

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bleh, for my purposes warranty>tuning so I guess im stuck with throttle lag.
The longer i browse this forum without seeing any engine issues, the more i'm inclined to think these skyactives are pretty bulletproof - at least long after any warranty will run out. The worst problem i've heard about on here regarding the engine is potential oil consumption from one or two owners. This includes all the folks (including myself) that have gotten a tune - no horror stories - and you'd expect some for any car, stock or not.

That said I don't blame you at all for not wanting to risk your warranty, just throwing out an observation.
 

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Is there besides an ECU remapping another way that can give 2014 Mazda 3 Hatchback any significant boost in HP? I don't feel like getting another exhaust tho', although alot of people are fan of the sound, I prefer to keep it as it is.

I had a remapping done (still under warranty #yolo ), on my 2L went from 120 hp to 181 and from 210 nm to 241.

My graph looked a little weird tho, according to it, before the tune I only had 80 NM at 1500 RPM whereas I now have around 170 at the same RPM. I saw a graph of another 3, same model; year etc and he was at about 160nm @1500rpm before the tune, that's double of what I had..

(I reach peak HP at 6062rpm and peak torque at 3100rpm, for those of you who care).

The "funny" thing is his increase in HP and NM was lower than mine. Also after a run on the dyno before the tune, it turned out that my car had 130hp instead of 120. It was a stock car, nothing done to it, but yeah.. I know not every car is going to be 100% the same, but yeah..
 

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Injen is the only company to make a CAI for Mazda 3... Everyone else has a shortram. I ended up using a JBR and putting in the bottom half of my factory airbox back in... haven't done any IAT test so who knows if it works.

Will this fit a 2.5l engine?
 
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