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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2010 mazdaspeed3. my clutch lost pressure. I figured bad clutch. So I put a new nice clutch in with New oem master and slave cylinder. (The old clutch wasn't bad) So when I get my car back. I have like an inch of clutch pedal. A couple weeks driving like that and I lost clutch pressure. On my 3rd set of master and slave cylinder now. I can't get fluid to really pump out of the bleed screw. With an air compressor bleeder pump I can get fluid slowly to come out but it's never enough to get clutch pressure back. At most I'll have some pressure on the clutch when I push down on it but it won't come back up . I can't get enough pressure to even put it in gear. I have checked the 1 line that goes to the reservoir to the slave and its clear inside and no cracks that i see. I have checked the reservoir with the feed line off and the master cylinder pumps it out. Anyone have a clue what's going on? Should I replace the reservoir and line?
 

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One more thing. Like a month after I bought the mazdaspeed3 I lost my brakes due to very low fluid. I filled the fluid up and bakes was good. Then a month after that i lost my clutch pedal. So obviously I had a leek somewhere. But my brakes was good when clutch went out. If you know mazdaspeed3s you know the brake and cluch use the same reservoir. It has a split in the tank for the different sides. I just have ignored this bc my brakes was good. Idk if anything is clicking plz let me know.
 

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2012 Mazda 3 GX MT5 non sky
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So if you refill the brake fluid / drive around the block and start pressurize the system and park it in the street you cant locate any drips ?
 

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2013 Mazda 3 i Hatchback
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We all make this mistake at least once. Just because parts are new doesn't mean that they are good, and just because you paid someone to do work doesn't mean that they did the work at all or did it right. It's really easy to check all those parts off the list of suspected problems because they've just been replaced.

It's a good thing that you paid for OEM parts, they have a much lower failure rate than aftermarket. But it is still possible that they failed prematurely.

Did you buy the parts and provide them to the shop, or did they buy them? What parts were replaced as part of the clutch job? Did they replace the flywheel and pressure plate, or just the clutch disc? As CerealKiller asked, what about the pilot, fork, and throw out bearing? Are the parts for the Mazdaspeed or just the regular 3 (some are the same and some are different).

Given that the clutch wasn't right when you got it back from the shop, I have serious doubts about your mechanic that did the work. I would suspect that they either didn't do what they charged you for, put the wrong parts in, or installed them improperly. Worst of all, they didn't care enough about the quality of their work and let a car that wasn't right leave their shop.

When you say there was very little fluid coming out of the bleeder when trying to bleed the clutch, that suggests that you have one or more of the following issues:
  1. Bad bleeder screw
  2. Bad master cylinder
  3. Obstructed/pinched line between master/slave
  4. Obstructed/pinched line between reservoir and master
  5. Serious problem with the fluid in your system (solids, contamination, or the wrong type of fluid). Wouldn't be the first time I've heard of some idiot putting motor oil or power steering fluid into a brake reservoir...
 

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I'm going to ask what may be a silly question. When you ran low on brake fluid, did you just fill the reservoir, or did you bleed the brakes after filling it? Not sure if it matters or not, but since the brakes and clutch share the master... Might be worth bleeding the master, then the brakes at each wheel, then the clutch.
 
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