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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
Yep.. not a stock Mazda part, as was agreed, and it is the wrong part on top of that. If you look at the fingers on the pressure plate? Burned and worn at the tips..
CK
Automotive tire Wood Rim Circle Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Yeah.. kind of kicking myself for not taking it to the dealer in the first place. It would have saved me a ton of time and they would have charged less too.. :(
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True enough in this case.

Although I've personally never used a dealer to repair any of my cars which are out of warranty, sometimes it can pay off especially when it comes to using OEM parts and following certain procedures that are not common outside of a particular brand.

There's no one best answer.
 

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I would say so CK. Hope you get your money back from the rogue garage.
You can’t point a finger at any specific shop, that’s the problem here. Despite all of the other questionable parts used and work done, common sense tells you that if it worked flawlessly before your dealer got his hands on it and was problematic after, then the dealer did something to your old starter or didn’t align the new clutch/flywheel correctly. The problem is that you can’t prove it, so they all can point fingers at the other guys. That’s the one reason that recommends to consumers that they get one mechanic that they trust to work on their cars, and then only use them to work on it. Easier said than done I know.
 

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Yeah.. kind of kicking myself for not taking it to the dealer in the first place. It would have saved me a ton of time and they would have charged less too.. :(
CK
That’s not a valid assumption either, dealer non warranty service is definitely much more expensive and not automatically more mechanically correct. You still need to do your due diligence and check the consumer ratings and complaints for the business. Assuming anything, especially anything as important as fixing your car and guaranteeing it’s safety, is stupid and could be deadly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
A 5 year battery with no issues prior and no startup issues prior to the initial service failed one week after service was done and I have docs for that. The new 5 year battery then failed less than a month later and needed replacing and I have docs for that. This is before any work was done on the transmission after the initial service. It also started up sluggishly ever since the initial service was done as is noted on several service invoices and this thread.

Replacing the starter fixed the problem and it was never driven after the dealer did the work on the transmission. So.. don't really see what point you are making here.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
That’s not a valid assumption either, dealer non warranty service is definitely much more expensive and not automatically more mechanically correct. You still need to do your due diligence and check the consumer ratings and complaints for the business. Assuming anything, especially anything as important as fixing your car and guaranteeing it’s safety, is stupid and could be deadly.
I did check the reviews and the AAA certification. The owner was combative and made tons of excuses after service was done, which is why I didn't go back there. Not trustworthy at all. They also charged more than the dealer for the work that was done and did it badly.

They installed an incorrect release bearing that required a full rework and fluids that were not requested prior to agreeing to the service. Brake pads installed in front were also not the ones requested prior to agreeing to their installation and their markings were covered with a thick layer of grease on areas that are not contact points. Super shady.
CK
 

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That’s not a valid assumption either, dealer non warranty service is definitely much more expensive and not automatically more mechanically correct. You still need to do your due diligence and check the consumer ratings and complaints for the business. Assuming anything, especially anything as important as fixing your car and guaranteeing it’s safety, is stupid and could be deadly.
Thats not always true. For many things the dealer is no more costly than anyplace else, and in many cases it can end up being cheaper. Many OEM parts are hard to come by, so a private shop might use whatever they can source and end up "fixing" your car in a manner that may not be correct, sometimes even halfassed. So, you pay them to do the repairs, then end up either going back to them or somebody else to fix what they screwed up. So whats more expensive, having the dealer fix something right or having some corner garage fix it for a bit less, but then having to get whatever they damaged in the process also repaired? It happens all the time. There are many people out there who don't know anything about car repair and just accept the cost of repairs as part of car ownership.
 

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Of course it comes down to time the owner has available, personal repair experience, space to work- (and nec. lifting equipment), and capability of having the car off the road... Luckily I am blessed with a bit of each... But as for me, and I'm in the small, small minority here, I trust no one to touch my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
The California Bureau of Automotive Repair Consumer Complaint & Protection department sided with me and says I am owed a full refund for the clutch service.

The owner of the shop denied that he ever spoke to me after the service to their rep, so I sent him the 3 call logs confirming the contact date, time and length of our calls.

He is also claiming that he bought the release bearing from O'Reilly's and provided an invoice for it. Problem with that is.. O'Reilly's doesn't stock KOYO parts at all.

He then claimed he bought all the parts from the same dealership that did the work on my car and provided an invoice for that. I agreed to the owner to doing the work at 4:30 PM on a Thursday.. his invoice shows he bought the parts less than 24 hours later. They don't stock those parts and when speaking with me the owner claimed he got all parts from a Mazda distributor and would not provide their part numbers, the name of the company he sourced them from or the old parts. Also, the parts that came out of my car are not new. My dealership confirmed that on my invoice and I have the parts still.

The rep from the CA BAR is still looking into things before finalizing his court admissible report.
CK
 

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This sounds more and more like criminal fraud....this guy sounds like a real dirt bag.
If you have not done so already, get screen shots of anything you have on your phone and print them out on paper...also contact O'Reillys and the dealer to see if the invoices provided are real.
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
He provided them to a state employee and I asked him to verify their authenticity for his report. I already emailed him copies of the call logs to prove he was lied to by the owner of the company.

I think he was contacted by American Express first, as the charge was contested with them. He probably was trying to fight that and got surprised by a visit from the CA BAR representative and made a bad decision in providing documentation that can be verified super easily.
CK
 

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Good for you pressing your case. Crooked vendors make a living on folks who just take the abuse and leave without going through the hassle. If more folks pressed the issue, the crooks would straighten up or go out of business.
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 · (Edited)
This headache is never ending...

So, ever since my dealership did the work I've had 1.2 to 1.3 degrees of positive camber in front. Took it for an alignment and with the max offered -1.5 degrees of negative camber from adjustable camber bolts.. the max a specialty frame and alignment shop could get up front was -.2 and -.3 of camber.

Take it back to the dealership and they are saying they never removed the subframe, undid the steering column, front lower LCA, or anything else that could impact alignment... (BS alert).

Waiting to hear back from the service manager after discussing my pre and post alignment print outs and what the service manual calls for to do this work.
CK
 

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This headache is never ending...

So, ever since my dealership did the work I've had 1.2 to 1.3 degrees of positive camber in front. Took it for an alignment and with the max offered -1.5 degrees of negative camber from adjustable camber bolts.. the max a specialty frame and alignment shop could get up front was -.2 and -.3 of camber.

Take it back to the dealership and they are saying they never removed the subframe, undid the steering column, front lower LCA, or anything else that could impact alignment... (BS alert).

Waiting to hear back from the service manager after discussing my pre and post alignment print outs and what the service manual calls for to do this work.
CK
They presumably are saying that they took the transaxle out from above? Is there any evidence of them taking off the hood (as in sockets being used on the bolts holding the hood onto the hood hinges)?, then, 'cuz I believe this'd be necessary if that were done... Others: do folks ever take the transaxle off from above???
 

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Take it back to the dealership and they are saying they never removed the subframe, undid the steering column, front lower LCA, or anything else that could impact alignment... (BS alert).
This from the FSM concerning replacing the clutch and removal of the manual transmission.....


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I doubt that the service techs would be allowed to do this without following the FSM procedures...
 
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