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Yeah, adequate ht. is an issue. That's why I have a selection of PSL-beam cuttoffs as dunnage. The usual is to use an apron-mounted engine/transaxle support, remove frt subframe (that's heavy, btw), then drop out the transaxle, out the bottom. Trans jack... or floor jack + secured-in-place (?) dunnage might work well...
 

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... the clutch was damaged by starting off in 6th gear instead of having the car towed ... the dealer probably won't pay for the clutch (IMO). They should pay for the re &re to get to the clutch 'cuz that's needed to access the transaxle...
I agree. That's why I'm willing to pay for parts and an hour of labor. OE parts on multiple sites cost no more than $600 and lets say they charge $100/hr for labor. I'll pay $700. And you're right, that basically how much a 130 mile tow would have cost.
I paid about $2,300 all in at my dealership. I filed a complaint with CA Bureau of Auto Repair against the initial shop and got a refund from them. They charged $2,500.
Oof. Well, luckily you re-couped most of your wasted expenditure. Just in case, I'll need to find out who I can even complain to in Florida (probably no one; because FL 🤣)
 

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I do think, though, that an OEM flywheel is $US1,300... and that other OEM cpts are similarly spendy. I do, however, for my circumstance - like to stay with OEM friction materials for most smooth and progressive operation of my clutch... where I do NOT do much in the way of fast starts and I have stock HP and torque. The Mazda engineers made their optimization choices of fade resistance, minimization of flywheel abrasive wear, ease of pushing the pedal, etc.... in a way that is pleasant to me. Others' circumstances and needs may vary...
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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Discussion Starter · #207 ·
The 2.5L flywheel is at an MSRP of $1,300.. some online dealers have it for $1k or so. They made far fewer 2.5L with a manual. That was a tough lesson to learn..

The 2L flywheel is more common and costs less. I think that can be found for like $600 or something.
CK
 

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2012 Mazda 3 GX MT5 non sky
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I think even if i had the space and the tools i dont think i would have the tech knowledge to dis and re assemble a clutch and axle.
Plus my arthritis / and joint pain ..its tough . Even replacing my battery with a lightweight and creating the tie down from shop leftover metal pieces was painful hell.
You are so lucky you can do it - dont stop. I am thankful i have local mechanic that is a track guy too - my clutch replacement is a flat $700 -

Thoughts - If you want a sporty more responsive car ...
When replacing clutch , why not consider upgrading to a lighter flywheel like the exedy race at 13lbs - 1/3 weight of oem?
and maybe going to the stage 1 clutch (I thinks its similar if not same organic material but pressure plate is stiffer)
 

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Yeah, adequate ht. is an issue. That's why I have a selection of PSL-beam cuttoffs as dunnage. The usual is to use an apron-mounted engine/transaxle support, remove frt subframe (that's heavy, btw), then drop out the transaxle, out the bottom. Trans jack... or floor jack + secured-in-place (?) dunnage might work well...
so i got curious and finally looked all this up in the service manual....not skimmed it, actually really looked at it.

oh man....what a gong show. i don't think that's a job i can do on my own. i've replaced clutches before but this one is special.

i'm starting to wonder if lifting the entire engine and trans out straight up might be easier. but then all that wiring....ugh.
 

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so i got curious and finally looked all this up in the service manual....not skimmed it, actually really looked at it.

oh man....what a gong show. i don't think that's a job i can do on my own. i've replaced clutches before but this one is special.

i'm starting to wonder if lifting the entire engine and trans out straight up might be easier. but then all that wiring....ugh.
It's a LOT of work, but generally, transaxle comes out from underneath... Engine support bar is of course necessary. Lotsa them sold for fwd transverse engine cars...
 

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Update: i spoke to the service manager on Monday. I told him that i refuse to pay $2300 for a clutch replacement. He was almost as shocked as me and assured me that the price is not right. He then quoted me $536 fo the clutch parts only. Labor will be billed under the transaxle replacement warranty work.

I agreed and i guess that surprised him. I just want my car back. Tuesday rolls by and i dont hear anything all day, so i called my advisor again. She was "just about to call me". She then saw that i had agreed to the parts deal and will try to get my car done asap. Wednesday (today) i get a call that my car is ready. So i just picked it up. The clutch is super bitey and tight. but my shifter feels....not good. i went thrrough the range and 3rd felt out of place. At least trusty 6th works (just in case this happens again).

Whatever. I've lost confidence in my car, and it will probably never be exciting to drive it again. But at least this saga is over.

Fun side bar: when my breakdown happened, i ripped out the plastic in the center console around the shifer to start my troubleshooting. Only one of the pieces broke. I got a quote to have it replaced: $465 with parts and labor. 🤣. That was an easy "no, thank you". I'll hit up a junkjard to get that taken care of
 

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@vebulous Now that the car is nearly repaired, have you done the shift cable neutralization?
Im not smart enough nor talented enough to know what that is. But i am going to look it up
[A few moments later...]
I looked it up. Found this Mazda 3 2019 manual transmission. This describes exactly what im experiencing. Difficult to shift into R, 1, and 3. And for me, 6 has a gentle shake. Moving to 2 then 1 or 4 then 3 makes it a little easier, but R is rough.

Im going to call the dealership tomorrow. Kind of asenine that they didnt just check and adjust this, but im sure theyll offer to charge me some ridiculous amount of money to do it.

Man, im extremely dissatisfied with this whole ordeal

Edit: i should have read the service bulletin you posted in that thread. Looks easy enough to do it myself. If i can fix it, im not even going to bother with the dealership.

Thank you @Cdn17Sport6MT
 

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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
I've done it. Removing the trim is a PITA but it's doable.

The shifter was misaligned after the dealership finished. I could partially go into Reverse when moving the shifter left before going up into first.

It was locked out so I couldn't engage Reverse unless I pressed it down but it was an issue.
CK
 

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I've done it. Removing the trim is a PITA but it's doable.

The shifter was misaligned after the dealership finished. I could partially go into Reverse when moving the shifter left before going up into first.

It was locked out so I couldn't engage Reverse unless I pressed it down but it was an issue.
CK
Fortunately for me, ive already ruined my console trim, so it comes off in a snap. 5 minutes of fiddling and i got the selector cable aligned. I havent driven it enough to say its perfect but is 10x better than it was. 6th still has a distinct vibration when at speed. I'm going to take a serious look at it over the weekend and see what i can do.
 
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