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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
I mentioned what the service manual called for.. here is the txt exchange..

Me: So he is saying that he didn't follow the service manual?

Rep: No, he is saying that why remove the subframe if its not necessary on the vehicle?

Rep: The service manuals are there as a guideline for techs that need assistance in a repair you know that

When I mentioned having copies of the pre and post alignment print out and that I was asking for a fix to the cause of the out of spec alignment numbers.. not an alignment.. and the service mgr got involved.. the response got much friendlier.

They are replacing my front wheel hub and bearing under powertrain warranty.

Then will diagnose the whirring noise coming from the transaxles. The tech said he could hear the transmission noise in the video he sent but that he wanted to do the hub/bearing first.
CK
 

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I'm surprised the frt wheel hub/wheel bearing is being replaced under the powertrain warranty. I 'kinda thought it was really only the engine and most of the non-wear parts of the transaxle that would be covered under that warranty...
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
I was surprised as well. They initially tried to charge me $1,201 for it, but I declined as I could get the parts for about $200 and just install it myself. Not a hard job if you have the tools and ability to hit the torque specs on the axle nut.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #185 ·
It's usually done with tires on and the center wheel cap off. You kind of angle the breaker bar and hold it with both hands in front of your chest so you can tilt/lay into it with some added body weight for leverage.

Here's a great video and the comments have details from the service manual that got skipped. Think it's been posted on here before.
CK

 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
I want my car back.. ☹

They gave me a loaner, but it's been over a week since dropping off the car and still no update on what's going on other than replacing something unrelated.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Got a txt that my car is ready. They replaced the wheel hub/bearing only.

The fact that my front camber is now in the 1.2-1.3 positive degree range is normal supposedly and the fact that I have to use adjustable camber bolts to get it within spec alignment of -1.2 to 0.8 degrees is totally normal too, I guess.

Had a long exchange where I had to ask about these things and was basically told I was asking them to fix a non-issue.

The issue with the camber started when they serviced the clutch. The pre and post alignments confirm this.. clutch job has a 1 year warranty.. so, fix it already.

I'll be speaking to the service manager on Monday.. this is BS. :mad:
CK
 

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Hey everyone, I was looking for advice and found this thread. Ive been lurking for a while. Never had any major issues until now with my 2017 mazda 3 touring 2.0 manual transmission 48000 on odo.

TL;DR: dealership wants to charge me $2300 to replace clutch even tho the reason my clutch needs replacement is due to faulty, in-warranty transmission.

Story time: Went on a roadtrip 2022 laborday weekend and on my way back home after a total ~2000 mi drive. I was 110 miles from home while on the highway; I go to pass someone and try to drop into 5th when i notice my shifter feels like a wet noodle. Wont come out of 6th gear.
I pull into the nearest exit (in retrospect, a mistake), get to a gas station to investigate. Long story short, something broke in my gearbox (most likely a fork) and im stuck in 6th. Call roadside assistance, they only offer to tow me 12 mi to nearest mechanic...on laborday (2022-09-05). I dont want to be stranded, and dont want to pay hundreds to get towed, so i decide to risk it and drive the 110 miles home...only in 6th. I knew my clutch would not survive, but had little choice at this point.
I safely get home that night and can smell the pain and burn of my car. I call my closest dealership next day (2022-09-06) and they ask me to bring it in, another 30 miles away. I 6th it to the dealer and drop it off next day (2022-09-07). Took them 2 more days (2022-09-09) to inform me that 6y/60k powetrain warranty MIGHT cover transmission repair but need to wait for authorization and need to agree to a $200 diagnostic fee, which honestly is also ridiculous. I tell them to check clutch too since I know it will need to be replaced. Thankfully, they decide to give me a loaner at this point.
The next week comes and goes with no comms, waiting for auth. Finally by friday (2022-09-16), a week in the shop, I get a quote to replace my clutch for $2300! I tried calling my advisor but she had left since its Friday afternoon. Will call her Monday (2022-09-19) and will need to have a nice, calm chat.
I'll be honest, I admit that I'm partially responsible that the clutch is shot, but since they already need to replace the transaxle, i dont think i should pay for the full labor to replace clutch since the transaxle is already out.
Genuine mazda parts (pressure plate, flywheel, friction disc, bearing, misc) shouldn't cost more than $500-$700 (which, surprisingly, im willing to pay, since that's basically what it would have cost to tow), but paying for disassembly and reassembly labor? Its already out! They're already replacing my paper-mache transaxle.
Am I justified to go ballistic for getting a quote for $2300?

I called another shop and got a quote for $1800 which is still high, but at least it makes a bit more sense since they would need to disassemble/reassemble.

I'm absolutely disappointed in this vehicle now, and will prob never bother with mazdas anymore. Btw, genuine transaxle is only $1200 should i have not been under warranty. God knows what they would have charged me for this too.

Anyway, I'll update on what happens. Thanks for attending my TEDtalk.
 

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You need to get a full accounting of what parts they are using.
Also, if the transaxle is out for warranty replacement, they should not be charging book rate for replacing the clutch.
That's my logic as well. As far as im concerned, it shouldn't take longer than an hour to prep clutch assembly to be installed during transaxle repair.
However, you mentioned dual mass flywheel, I'll need to look into that. Everyday i learn something new about my car that makes me like it less and less.
The only extra info i got is a 1 minute video of what the parts look like and the tech explaining that "this needs to be replaced".
Anyway the flywheel could be resurfaced? Or is that a legacy procedure now?

Clutch material in bell housing. Bearing making a little bit of noise -should be replaced.
Clutch (friction disc). Worn down to rivets and rust(?) -should be replaced.
Pressure plate. Has divets and rust (?), Bad condition -should be replaced.
Flywheel. Same thing, deep pit spots, skipping from getting too hot -should be replaced
 

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Your car needs a dual mass flywheel.....MSRP is $1400
I looked up the part you posted. According to that site, its not compatible with my model.

2017 Mazda 3 2.0 Touring
Bearing Product ID: LF01-16-510
$43.93
Flywheel Product ID: PE01-11-500A
$229.58
Pressure Plate Product ID: PE01-16-410A
$165.65
Disc Product ID: PE02-16-460A
$111.22
Pilot Bearing Product ID: YF09-11-303
$10.54

Total: $560.92 +tax&shipping

By the way, @arathol i really do appreciate your input. I dont want to come off as a jerk. All feedback is valuable. Thank you
 

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Yeah. I have a 2.5L. The 2L version is more readily available and costs less. They didn't make as many 2.5L manuals.

You can find your part on that site.

Here is a listing of parts for your car.
CK

I read up on your situation. What was the final verdict?
I'm going to speak to my advisor on Monday and i have some choice words regarding my 2300 quote. I wonder if there's a way to contact whoever authorized warranty repairs. Ultimately, the reason why i damaged my clutch was to get home on a holiday.
 

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I feel for you, @vebulous , but if the clutch was damaged by starting off in 6th gear instead of having the car towed (I know that that would have been $$$) the dealer probably won't pay for the clutch (IMO). They should pay for the re &re to get to the clutch 'cuz that's needed to access the transaxle... but do forgive me, cuz I don't know the terms of the warranty (or terms of Mazda Roadside Assistance)...
 

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I paid about $2,300 all in at my dealership. I filed a complaint with CA Bureau of Auto Repair against the initial shop and got a refund from them. They charged $2,500.

Dealership did a good job and used all stock parts.
CK
Glad to hear it worked out in the end but sorry that you had such trouble.

I'm just starting to plan for a clutch replacement. Blocks to raise jack stands and such. I'm getting into high mileage on my 3 so I know it's coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 ·
Yeah.. without a lift, you will need to get creative on lifting up the front end enough.

My dealership actually took it out the top of the engine bay. Not sure on all the details, but if you remove the hood and some of the cowell.. I think it's possible. Could use an engine/trans lift that way.
CK
 
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