[Tristan-cx5]

@Slawek407 : Did you downgrade from a FW 59 to FW 56? The IC looks like a KF model of 2017. To my knowledge this was never shipped from factory with a FW 56, only with FW 59. Perhaps your issues occur, because you installed a firmware that was never meant to be installed at a KF model - and therefore the firmware does not support some features you expect to be working (an which are perhaps not existent in a KE model, which FW 56 was meant to be for). If I am right and you downgraded, I would recommend to update to a FW 59 or 70. If you think about using AIO Tweaks install the ID7/Autorun tweak of AIO 2.8.6 before the update to any firmware between 59.00.502 - 70.00.100. I then would not recommend to update to a higher version as 70.00.100. AIO Android Auto works best with FW 59.00.502 (and will not work with any FW 70).

 

[Slawek407]

@Slawek407 : Did you downgrade from a FW 59 to FW 56? The IC looks like a KF model of 2017. To my knowledge this was never shipped from factory with a FW 56, only with FW 59. Perhaps your issues occur, because you installed a firmware that was never meant to be installed at a KF model - and therefore the firmware does not support some features you expect to be working (an which are perhaps not existent in a KE model, which FW 56 was meant to be for). If I am right and you downgraded, I would recommend to update to a FW 59 or 70. If you think about using AIO Tweaks install the ID7/Autorun tweak of AIO 2.8.6 before the update to any firmware between 59.00.502 - 70.00.100. I then would not recommend to update to a higher version as 70.00.100. AIO Android Auto works best with FW 59.00.502 (and will not work with any FW 70).

Thank you for your interest in my problem.
I don't know if there was downgraded software, I have to call the previous owner. The car is from 01/01/2017. The car is from the USA but I bought it in Poland. . I don't know what AIO Tweaks is, if what I think is android auto and the touchpad while driving is working. What version of the software should I change to, European or American. I once read that the software must be the same as the country where the car was made. Will I have the menu and navigation sound in Polish. The radio tuner is USA. I checked, but the radio works on European waves. It all works now. There is only a compass and a maintenance monitor. Reading sms in Polish also works. Please help me where to start. Thank you.

 

[Tristan-cx5]

Polish language only comes with the EU version only, so you can stick to this version, if these mentioned minor issues do not bother you.

 

[SergSlim]

After this change, SCBS stopped working
After many searches I made the following change and everything works, without errors.
0720 0418 2845 F0BF 0665 to 0720 0418 284C F0BF 066C (B1 01001100) ,and the checksum in 0720 (From Configuration menu i relearn ABS and SBS/MRCC )

I did the same change initially after discussing this with @Nikodim.
Have you tested SCBS with some cardboard box to verify that it works after the change?

I don't like one aspect of MRCC - is that it doesn't notice standing cars. So if I'm using it in the city, and come to a stop light from afar, and there are cars - it won't notice them. So SBS won't stop the car as well, and probably FOW/DRSS won't help either.
In that case I think that only SCBS would work, but at the same time, if I set MRCC to 50 kmph, and SCBS works at 4-40 or something like that - it won't work as well from what I understand.

 

[tarahumara]

I did the same change initially after discussing this with @Nikodim.
Have you tested SCBS with some cardboard box to verify that it works after the change?

I don't like one aspect of MRCC - is that it doesn't notice standing cars. So if I'm using it in the city, and come to a stop light from afar, and there are cars - it won't notice them. So SBS won't stop the car as well, and probably FOW/DRSS won't help either.
In that case I think that only SCBS would work, but at the same time, if I set MRCC to 50 kmph, and SCBS works at 4-40 or something like that - it won't work as well from what I understand.

Even the MRCC with stop and go can't detect stationary cars sometimes. Coming to a stop while using MRCC, you should always be cautious. I've used MRCC 1-200 km/h with my 2015 Mazda 3 without any issue for about 2 years. SCBS works alright. Now I'm using MRCC with stop and go with my 2018 Mazda 6. Only difference is Mazda6 can come to a complete stop and resume while Mazda3 stops braking under 5 km/h but does not cancel the MRCC.

 

[SergSlim]

Even the MRCC with stop and go can't detect stationary cars sometimes. Coming to a stop while using MRCC, you should always be cautious. I've used MRCC 1-200 km/h with my 2015 Mazda 3 without any issue for about 2 years. SCBS works alright. Now I'm using MRCC with stop and go with my 2018 Mazda 6. Only difference is Mazda6 can come to a complete stop and resume while Mazda3 stops braking under 5 km/h but does not cancel the MRCC.

BTW, did you hear some noise from under the hood right side when the car was breaking below ~15 kmph with 1-200 activated? Kinda like ABS working.

And did you have the BREAK! signal on HUD if you kept rolling to the car in front of you after the car stopped breaking below 5 kmph?

 

[tarahumara]

BTW, did you hear some noise from under the hood right side when the car was breaking below ~15 kmph with 1-200 activated? Kinda like ABS working.

And did you have the BREAK! signal on HUD if you kept rolling to the car in front of you after the car stopped breaking below 5 kmph?

That noise under the hood is there even with mazda 6.
Yes, i've seen brake signal. Just like that

 

[drazick]

Good evening, does anyone know if it is possible to install clean headlights in a cx-5 ke? And if you have to activate something to work? When he snows the LED headlights, they are not able to melt the snow and with the clean headlights I could remove part of that snow. Thanks

 

[Tristan-cx5]

See XLS of SergSlim in tab FBCM 726-01-01 B3 b2=1 has to be set to activate the headlight washer.

Wiring of an CX-5 KE:

Keep in mind that you should use the larger washer tank (I wrote about retrofitting it here in the forum: Link to Thread) and that you need a new front bumper (due to the holes) if you want to use original parts - and obviously the headlight washers and hoses as well. In nordic countries they come from factory with the headlight cleaners I guess, so there have to be original parts for the front bumper of the CX-5 KE Facelift (2015-2017, with LED).

Edit: CX-5 KE Front Bumper with parking senors, with number plate holder and with headlight washer holes could be part number KD53-50-031B-8P - order in your car colour and double check.

 

[drazick]

See XLS of SergSlim in tab FBCM 726-01-01 B3 b2=1 has to be set to activate the headlight washer.

Wiring of an CX-5 KE:
View attachment 285284

Keep in mind that you should use the larger washer tank (I wrote about retrofitting it here in the forum: Link to Thread) and that you need a new front bumper (due to the holes) if you want to use original parts - and obviously the headlight washers and hoses as well. In nordic countries they come from factory with the headlight cleaners I guess, so there have to be original parts for the front bumper of the CX-5 KE Facelift (2015-2017, with LED).

Edit: CX-5 KE Front Bumper with parking senors, with number plate holder and with headlight washer holes could be part number KD53-50-031B-8P - order in your car colour and double check.

I already have the large tank installed since I have the level sensor on.

And if I'm not mistaken, the electrical installation is also complete in the absence of the motor.

I thought I had read at some point that it had to be activated but yesterday I can’t find where to do it, that's why my question.

Thank you!!!!!!

 

[Tristan-cx5]

Please let us know more about it once your installation is finished. I am really interested. Thanks & good luck

 

[drazick]

Don't worry, as soon as I have done it I'll show it to you. I have to look for all the second-hand parts since new ones are quite expensive.

Only the headlight pump costs new more than €200.

I have already located everything in the absence of one of the two ejectors and the general pipe.

When I have everything, I must also make the hole in the front bumper.

 

[drazick]

Please let us know more about it once your installation is finished. I am really interested. Thanks & good luck

Yesterday I connected the pump to the car because the pre-installation is mounted and encode it in the FBCM and it works perfectly!!!

I am now looking for all the rest of the material I need to finish the installation.

By the way, the bumper has marking inside where the drills must be made to place them.

 

[Chipbi]

does anyone have cx5 2021 signature or grand touring reserve ? please help me backup as built from Gate Way

module

 

[Astap7]

Mazda 6 2021 suprime plus with front and rear parking sensors and rear camera does not work, after turning on the SCBS-R, a message about a system malfunction appeared on the dashboard, no additional CMU menu appeared (maybe that's the problem). 16 line I have looks like this: 7 20 04 16 80 00 24 80 06
24 - 0010 0100, 01 - Off (W/Parking overlays On)
changed to 44 - 0100 0100, 10 - On (W/Parking overlays On)
By the way, there were no errors in the modules in forscan. In general, I returned everything back, it's a pity, apparently, I still need the SCBS-F system, and I don't have it, since there is no front camera. Probably Mazda figured out that everyone activates paid functions and stopped putting the camera.

No one knows how to programmatically disable the ACTIVE BONNET system? In a collision, it shoots off the hood.

 

[Tristan-cx5]

I doubt, that you can activate SCBS-R if no Front Camera FSC for SCBS-F is there. In the MZD Menu the SCBS-R is included in the SCBS-F setting, which is written in the MZD as "SCBS" only. There is no separate setting for SCBS-R in the menu, even if you can activate it additionally via ForScan in the module. Would be happy for you if you find a solution, but I doubt it.

 

[Astap7]

Mazda 6 2021 suprime plus, It turned out to include 2-step Unlock mode. Thanks to the forum and Sergey for the excel file

 

[Bellri]

A couple questions. I've been trying to improve my fuel economy with my US model 2014 sGT, is it possible to enable A/C ECO mode without any DTC's? I've tried changing the related bit noted in the Excel file to 1, which seems to match the EU configuration, and it does definitely activate A/C ECO mode in my car, but I always get DTC's for SBS/MRCC and ABS along with it (incompatible configuration). ABS relearn resolves that DTC, but SBS/MRCC relearn doesn't fix it's DTC. I've tried changing the radar market region to EU to match just in case that had something to do with it, but the DTC remains. What exactly does changing the radar region do anyway?

The other question is a long shot, and I know people are going to think I'm crazy, but is it possible to activate i-Stop on a US model car? I understand the annoyance, but for my area where I actually drive, i-Stop makes perfect sense. My car has a blank switch where the i-Stop switch would be, and has a "sport" light in the cluster where the i-Stop logo would appear. I tried enabling i-Stop in the SSU, but nothing happens. If I enable it in my IC, my "sport" light flashes constantly, which seems to indicate a malfunction with i-Stop considering that's where the i-Stop light would usually be. It's probably not possible, but just wanted to throw it out there in case someone else has more info.

 

[craz]

Where is AC/ECO setting located? If it's in IC below 720-4-1, do you remember to recalculate the overall Checksum?

As far as I know for i-Stop it needs a DC-to-DC converter to deal with power for the cabin. Would you imagining how annoying it'd be if every time the car starter is used your infotainment restart, lights and electronics glitch.
IDK where the programming is located to deal with i-Stop perhaps it's in every car PCM then all you need is install and wire a converter.

 

[Bellri]

I copied and pasted straight from the Excel calculator with the new checksum, so I guess that's not the problem.

Also, I actually already have the dc to dc converter, it's part of the i-eloop system. I feel like this is going to require swapping the pcm or something. I'm all for swapping parts, just check my signature, but this probably isn't worth it.. Still going to look into it more though.