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Discussion Starter #21
Update.

Arathol wasn't wrong in claiming you cant hide a spring rate as stiff as 6k/336, at least my wife doesn't think so lol. She said it was a little too much, and I dont mind experimenting a bit... so I swapped in QA1 High travel springs at 250 lbs/in. QA1 says the advantage of high travel springs is that they are lighter and smaller, and can react both faster and smoother.

Verdict? BUTTER. Left out on the table ready to spread BUTTER. So smoooooth. Almost, but not quite too smooth. I think a bump up to 275 would be absolutely perfect (eibachs progressives max at 268 and I see why).

The 6k/5k option is still fantastic if you ask me. Really, really comfortably aggressive in the hills and still good enough around town. But I wanted to give it another shot anyway, and I'm happy with the 250 QA1s. Oh, wife is too 馃憤.

274390



Having said that.... if you want coilovers and want a softer rate than Ceika, BC, Tein etc offer? You have to spend the extra $90 and buy your own aftermarket to the aftermarket, and you might as well save the $$$ and buy the cheaper coils of the group to maximize savings anyway. Just my .02 cents...
 

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I dunno.. there are some really well made springs and strut / damper pairings out there for our rides.

Dial in the alignment and get some upgraded wheels and tires..
CK
 

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2012 Mazda 3 GX MT5
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Thanks for all your feedbacks on CEIKA. I want to go to Coilovers , to reduce weight and better handling on and off the track . What do you think of these ?
NEO Type AA [All Aluminum] Coilover - MAZDA (showing in CDN on mine)
 

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Never heard of them.
I see this claim though-
A full aluminum body construction prevents corrosion from occurring from traditional steel body coilovers. It is the perfect suspension for demographics where salt is used in the winter time and severe weather is a problem in the prolonging of the components.
This could not be further from the truth. While it doesn't rust like steel, aluminum corrodes rapidly from exposure to chlorides, especially so in places where it is in contact with steel parts such as nuts and bolts, or the steel piston rod or the springs. Road salt should kill them pretty quickly. 馃槷
 

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Thanks for your feedback...I would agree they need to reword their description ...but with straight regular aluminum i agree, had windows that were un coated and they started pitting. Many aircraft are made from aluminum alloy , as are car and bike parts all because of light weight, but also to its resistance to corrosion. Aluminum alloys contain almost no iron and without iron, the metal can鈥檛 actually rust, but it does oxidize. When the alloy is exposed to water, a film of aluminum oxide forms quickly on the surface. The hard oxide layer is quite resistant to further corrosion and protects the underlying metal. As far as I can see not sure if rod or springs (painted /coated) have contact with Aluminum alloy or another metal separator /contact point. Plus...I do live in a salted roads and have been Krown rust oil proofing the car every year. Does an amazing job of creating a protective everywhere is applied. I'll have to check out more reviews ...But many is not all Coilovers have a Aluminum components
 

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Road salt corrodes aluminum, regardless if it is an alloy or not. Most places use sodium chloride as a road de-icing agent, and many also use other chlorides to augment the de-icing properties. Magnesium Chloride is a common add-on, and this is known to actively attack aluminum. I've been working with these chlorides for many years, and have seen first hand what sort of damage they can do to vehicles.
Any point where aluminum is in contact with steel will start to corrode almost immediately due to the galvanic reaction that takes place between the two metals. Paint will only delay the process for a short time.
Spray on treatments only work in places that can be sprayed. The contact surfaces between the fasteners and the parts don't get treated, and this is where many problems start. The only way to keep salt corrosion at bay is to thoroughly clean everything regularly with a chloride neutralizer such as Neutra-wash.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Update...

Now for sale

 

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Thanks for your insights !!
 

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Those aren't coilovers.......and if that shock has an adjustable body tube its got a very short maximum travel from the looks of it. Not that you should even need an adjustable shock body if the part was made specifically for a 3rd gen Mazda 3......
That suspension design is the same as the OEM parts except for the adjustablity, so installation should be the same as if you were installing regular lowering springs and aftermarket shocks.
Those are pretty much the same as BC. Made in Taiwan, probably in the same factory. They have the same design as some other BC products. CEIKA used to be called Standard Suspension I think, same stuff as DGR Suspension, ZI-HE Co. LTD and a bunch of others. All pretty much the same generic Taiwan produced shocks and coil overs, made to order for individual retailers.
Any update on the package reliability..?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Do you have any update available on products or comfort etc? Thx
I settled on lowering 1.25" up front and 1.5" rear after swapping the ceika springs with QA1 High Travel 250 lbs/in springs. Comfort settings at 20 of 30 clicks "soft". They were really just about perfect. Felt great, and just firm enough when the road twisted a bit.

Unfortunately after just 3K miles I squared up a 10 pointer at 75 mph and obliterated my car. The coils are now for sale HERE and on eBay.
 
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