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Ceika coilovers are on. Custom ordered spring rates and valving. Waited 3 weeks for them to show up. Finally installed them today. What a breeze! 2 hours total, and that's answering texts and taking pictures included (I did have a shop and lift).

Out of the box impression: very sharp, highlighted by the details. Everything is clean and gives off a real polished feel.

All tabs and lines are bang on, no fitment issues

I did measure oem strut/spring length and based my initial full body coilover "length" on the factory dimensions and subtracted .75 inches to start. Results were almost .75 drop up front and a full 1.25 rear. The rears seem to have a minimum drop of .5 no matter how far I tried to adjust.

First 50 miles of driving impression: "Holy crap". Maybe it's the minimal drop at this point, but these things are spectacularly comfortable. Slightly firmer, 10 or 12% firmer I'd say. No bouncing or shooting around like crap dampners would provide. Bang on again.

For reference I had Tein Flex on my Acura TL, Bilsteins on a Fiesta ST and Ksports on old 323 while stationed in Germany... I'm not going to say Ceika is better than any, it's too soon for that... but not a doubt in mind at this ride height these are the most comfortable coils I've ever installed.

6k/5K spring rates (dual springs up front)
Current valving set at 20 clicks from max stiff (or 10 from max comfort).

I'll update as I break them in and will adjust down to to 1.5" soon.

Drop pics later. Installed pics here.
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Discussion Starter #2
225 45 18 Conti DWS 06 mounted. 250 miles since coilovers installed, no settling thus far. Same .75" up front 1.25" rear.

Enkei TS 10 18x8 +40 offset sits FLUSH with fender up front. Ever so slight, 2mm or so tuck rear.

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Hey man, these really got me interested on CEIKA and I was wondering how much did they cost you? I was thinking of BC Racing BR Series, but with a little bit more I can have dual coils, custom spring rates, etc.
 

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Hey man, these really got me interested on CEIKA and I was wondering how much did they cost you? I was thinking of BC Racing BR Series, but with a little bit more I can have dual coils, custom spring rates, etc.
I thought along the same. I wanted Koni SAS and Eibach, just for comforts sake. But doing the math it was only 300 more to get nearly unlimited adjustment out of full body coilovers, plus the wait was only 3 weeks and no backorder gimmicks that Koni has going right now.

As an added bonus the coils are bolt on and done as far as DIY installation. No spring compressors and strut mounts to wrestle with.

I paid $1060...
 

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Those aren't coilovers.......and if that shock has an adjustable body tube its got a very short maximum travel from the looks of it. Not that you should even need an adjustable shock body if the part was made specifically for a 3rd gen Mazda 3......
That suspension design is the same as the OEM parts except for the adjustablity, so installation should be the same as if you were installing regular lowering springs and aftermarket shocks.
Those are pretty much the same as BC. Made in Taiwan, probably in the same factory. They have the same design as some other BC products. CEIKA used to be called Standard Suspension I think, same stuff as DGR Suspension, ZI-HE Co. LTD and a bunch of others. All pretty much the same generic Taiwan produced shocks and coil overs, made to order for individual retailers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Those aren't coilovers.......and if that shock has an adjustable body tube its got a very short maximum travel from the looks of it. Not that you should even need an adjustable shock body if the part was made specifically for a 3rd gen Mazda 3......
That suspension design is the same as the OEM parts except for the adjustablity, so installation should be the same as if you were installing regular lowering springs and aftermarket shocks.
Those are pretty much the same as BC. Made in Taiwan, probably in the same factory. They have the same design as some other BC products. CEIKA used to be called Standard Suspension I think, same stuff as DGR Suspension, ZI-HE Co. LTD and a bunch of others. All pretty much the same generic Taiwan produced shocks and coil overs, made to order for individual retailers.
Cant argue Taiwan. For their part, Ceika claims to have their own standalone low capacity company, and also makes custom build to spec big brake calipers. Wheels are listed their website as well, but they told me they outsource those.

It's all irrelevant now. The Bilsteins are break-your-back stiff, and Koni SAS has a 120 day rolling backorder. All I know is these are so far at least, far and away the most comfortable coils I've ever installed. Time will tell.

I'm going to adjust a little further down today and then hit Texas Hill Country tomorrow. More to follow...
 

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Congrats on the upgrades. Looks pretty good and with the lighter rims, you should get some better handling and mpg. Good work.

I went with Koni FSD struts/dampers and H&R springs (1.17" F 1.77" R), which have a similar drop to where you are set. I think it's a perfect ride height IMO.

Oh, be careful when taking turns. I had 5 mm spacers installed with OEM rims 7.5 215/45/18 and I hit a dip while turning left in a parking lot and popped the front passenger fender tab.. I had cut the bump stop more than necessary though. Since putting a non cut new bump stop in and removing the 5mm spacers up front, that hasn't happened again.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Congrats on the upgrades. Looks pretty good and with the lighter rims, you should get some better handling and mpg. Good work.

I went with Koni FSD struts/dampers and H&R springs (1.17" F 1.77" R), which have a similar drop to where you are set. I think it's a perfect ride height IMO.

Oh, be careful when taking turns. I had 5 mm spacers installed with OEM rims 7.5 215/45/18 and I hit a dip while turning left in a parking lot and popped the front passenger fender tab.. I had cut the bump stop more than necessary though. Since putting a non cut new bump stop in and removing the 5mm spacers up front, that hasn't happened again.
CK
The general idea was to end up at 1.25/1.75, so very nearly the same as H&R. I'm going to get there in stages though, adjusting dampening along with the height each time and try to find the best feel. I would have saved the extra cash and gone with thr Konis if they were in stock over the last few months, but they told me at the beginning of October that the rears were probably being pushed into January delivery. Ain't got time for that!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Congrats on the upgrades. Looks pretty good and with the lighter rims, you should get some better handling and mpg. Good work.

I went with Koni FSD struts/dampers and H&R springs (1.17" F 1.77" R), which have a similar drop to where you are set. I think it's a perfect ride height IMO.

Oh, be careful when taking turns. I had 5 mm spacers installed with OEM rims 7.5 215/45/18 and I hit a dip while turning left in a parking lot and popped the front passenger fender tab.. I had cut the bump stop more than necessary though. Since putting a non cut new bump stop in and removing the 5mm spacers up front, that hasn't happened again.
CK
Hey killer, I think I read already that you were able to maintain oem alignment specs with H&R correct?
 

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That's a real shame about the backorder.

I'm considering getting very similar Enkei wheels to yours.

Let me know what you think of them.
CK
 

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Yes. SPC adjustable camber bolts up front. JBR adjustable camber arms and Megan Racing Adjustable Toe Arms in the back. HardRace adjustable end links in the front and rear.

I run some negative camber to help with understeer.
CK
 

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What options did you select? I’m debating to get the dual spring set up, and if I should even select the option for adjustable camber/pillow ball rear top mounts. Do I only need rear camber arms and toe arms?
 

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What options did you select? I’m debating to get the dual spring set up, and if I should even select the option for adjustable camber/pillow ball rear top mounts. Do I only need rear camber arms and toe arms?
Gauthier from Ceika talked me out of the pillow ball mounts because I told him I wanted comfort and would never go extremely low, where you would need the pillow ball to adjust camber. Rear pillow ball and rear dual springs aren't available on our cars...

I went for dual spring up front because it allows preload to be removed (max comfort) while keeping the spring aligned on the shock body.
 

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Gauthier from Ceika talked me out of the pillow ball mounts because I told him I wanted comfort and would never go extremely low, where you would need the pillow ball to adjust camber. Rear pillow ball and rear dual springs aren't available on our cars...

I went for dual spring up front because it allows preload to be removed (max comfort) while keeping the spring aligned on the shock body.
I don't who this Gaithier is but if he is a CEIKA rep he isn't very good.......
The "pillow balls" you are talking about for the front are actually camber plates. They have nothing to do with the ride height of the car. They are used to adjust camber on the McPherson strut type suspensions where no camber adjustment would otherwise be possible. You would use them to keep the tread face in contact with the pavement when cornering, ie adding negative camber for handling purposes. They do make noise as they are more of a solid mount vs rubber. Not a big deal though. No such similar parts are available for the Mazda 3 because the upper mounts have nothing to do with the rear camber so they are just not needed. Rear toe and camber are adjusted by installing independently adjustable arms.

That dual spring setup has nothing to do with preload or comfort... its just a helper spring to make working on the car easier. All those do is keep the spring on the perch when the suspension is at full droop. On most suspensions that use them they don't really do anything useful. Rear helper springs are not available because there is no need for them with this suspension design. If that system was a real coil over set-up then yes it could potentially have them installed if needed.
 

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I don't who this Gaithier is but if he is a CEIKA rep he isn't very good.......
The "pillow balls" you are talking about for the front are actually camber plates. They have nothing to do with the ride height of the car. They are used to adjust camber on the McPherson strut type suspensions where no camber adjustment would otherwise be possible. You would use them to keep the tread face in contact with the pavement when cornering, ie adding negative camber for handling purposes. They do make noise as they are more of a solid mount vs rubber. Not a big deal though. No such similar parts are available for the Mazda 3 because the upper mounts have nothing to do with the rear camber so they are just not needed. Rear toe and camber are adjusted by installing independently adjustable arms.

That dual spring setup has nothing to do with preload or comfort... its just a helper spring to make working on the car easier. All those do is keep the spring on the perch when the suspension is at full droop. On most suspensions that use them they don't really do anything useful. Rear helper springs are not available because there is no need for them with this suspension design. If that system was a real coil over set-up then yes it could potentially have them installed if needed.

No reference made to pillow ball and adjusting ride height. Only that if you want to go low enough that a camber adjustment was needed, and I wouldn't be going anywhere near that level.

It was assumed they would transmit entirely too much noise and harshness metal on metal. Falls under "comfort", as mentioned.
 

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No reference made to pillow ball and adjusting ride height. Only that if you want to go low enough that a camber adjustment was needed, and I wouldn't be going anywhere near that level.

It was assumed they would transmit entirely too much noise and harshness metal on metal. Falls under "comfort", as mentioned.
Maybe you are not understanding something here...
Camber plates and ride height have nothing to do with each other at all. They are used to adjust camber regardless of ride height. A couple degrees of front camber can do a lot on this car to make the handling better, lowered or not.
As far as noise, they don't transmit enough of anything to make a big difference. You'd probably never even notice if you didn't know they were there. The positives of the camber plates are far more than the negatives.
 

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What options did you select? I’m debating to get the dual spring set up, and if I should even select the option for adjustable camber/pillow ball rear top mounts. Do I only need rear camber arms and toe arms?
arathol gave me the stats to go for.

If I remember correctly, -1 camber in front and -1.5 camber in rear. Rear toe of .08.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter #18
🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Surfer, you dont NEED pillow ball mounts unless you think you will NEED to adjust camber beyond factory specs. As reported many times on this forum, you wont NEED to adjust camber beyond factory specs unless you go lower than nearly 2" up front. Up to that point oem alignment specs sure seem obtainable. You may be able to go lower but from what I've read nobody has been lower without NEEDING camber adjustment to clear fenders.

If you do buy Ceika, and you've probably already considered this, be ready for the internet bullies to criticize your decision!

Bottom line at this point: Ceika allows unique combinations and a level of customization that nobody else seems to approach.

I went another .25" lower before driving 250 miles of Texas Hill country this morning and so far so good, still unbelievably comfortable...

If I had to find a negative with these its having to ask Ceika to provide dampner rates and tube travel specs rather than including them with purchase. As high end as they try to be, I think full specs should be a given.
 

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What options did you select? I’m debating to get the dual spring set up, and if I should even select the option for adjustable camber/pillow ball rear top mounts. Do I only need rear camber arms and toe arms?
In all honesty, save your money and get a conventional set-up. Those Ceika things may look all fancy and pretty but they are no better than a set of Eibachs or H&Rs with factory dampers. Adjustability is a non issue, the only real benefit is if you are prepping for competition and corner weighting the car. Dual springs are a waste of money, they do nothing for you. As for the camber plates, that depends on what your goals are. If you are lowering the car and adding fairly wide tires at some point, you might need to dial in a bit of negative camber even with modest lowering despite what you may have read elsewhere. A bit of extra negative camber can help the front tires stay put on the pavement in a corner too.
Cheap Taiwan stuff has repeatedly proven to be short lived also. Many car owners lured in by shiny bits for not a lot of money have gone this way and most took them off in favor of better quality equipment within months. Adjustable length shock bodies are notorious for early failures just from the nature of their construction. These types of dampers are designed to be one size fits all, not really designed specifically for this car like better quality stuff is. Sure, they can be adjusted for length on the outside, but on the inside the actual damper tube is restricted to whatever the shortest adjustment of the outer tube requires. The actual damper mechanism can't be made longer or shorter. So, damper travel is severely limited. Not enough travel can cause frequent bottoming, which can quickly destroy the damper, and the bump stops will limit travel even further. To prevent bottoming out the dampers in this situation the suspension requires stiffer springs and proper damper valving to compensate. Stock rate springs won't cut it. Stiffer springs means a harder ride. In this case the spring rates have doubled to 336 lbs/inch and 280 lbs/in (6k and 5k). Believe me, you can change the valving all you want, but you just can't hide that much of a spring rate increase and call it as good if not better than stock......not for $1k anyhow.......

arathol gave me the stats to go for.

If I remember correctly, -1 camber in front and -1.5 camber in rear. Rear toe of .08.
CK
This is what I use-
Front toe............0 .05° left and right
Front camber....-2° both sides
Caster.................6.5° both sides
Rear toe.............0.08° both sides
Rear camber.....-1.5° both sides
 

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Thanks everyone, I’m still debating what my suspension set up will end up being. It’s a toss up between BC Racing BR Coilovers vs H&R Springs/KONI Special Active. I’m definitely going to run front camber plates and adjustable rear camber/toe due to running a very aggressive 235/40/18 with 18x9.5 +38.
 
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