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Discussion Starter #1
car wont start anti theft icon blinking its a mazda 3 i sedan 2011
so when i tried to start my car the anti theft icon is blinking??
but i can playsongs roll down window and lock it and alarm work but wont start??
 

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Zoom-Zoom To Da Crib.
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Have you read your manual? Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes i did. I tried all the tips and step but still not working and if go dealer i have to pay around $700

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Were you the guy that just switch your tranny to standard?
If so, could be just the clutch not being engaged properly or something related to clutch.
 

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Stole this from another site. Not telling which one ;) I had figured that is sounded like you have tripped the immobilizer alarm on your car. Is it possible that your key programming got damaged? That or It's not your car... have you checked your plates? :p Has happened at parking lots before oddly enough. Same model & color and unlock frequencies.

"The rapid red blinking indicator light (key inside of a car) is the immobilizer.

Your immobilizer system got activated. Sorry to say, but you will have to take it to the dealer. There's some tricks that the RX8 guys did with their keys to de-activate it but it didn't work on my speed3 when my immobilizer was set off.

What the dealer does is input new "as is" data to the ecu along with a re-flash of the ecu. In IL it costs 135 (might vary per state) but they gave it to me for 110- good dealer.

Before you take it to the dealer I would recommend the following as it might or might not work. If the following doesn't work your only resort is a dealer trip.


Try this:

Okay -here are the instructions..

(The timing is critical to this procedure, please read through the entire procedure before attempting )

1. Insert one of the pre-programmed transponder keys and turn the ignition to "on", leave on for at least one second ( wait until the red key symbol in the instrument cluster extinguishes), remove the key from the ignition.


2. Within 5 seconds insert the second pre-programmed key and turn the ignition to "on" for at least one second but no more than 5 seconds (use the key symbol for this as well) then remove the second key.


3. Within 10 seconds insert the new key in the ignition and turn the ignition to "on", if you are successful the red key symbol will illuminate then extinguish after about a second.

If you are not successful the red key symbol will flash repeatedly to indicate that you have inserted an invalid key. Remove the key, wait a minute and try it again, it took me a few times to get it perfect and I had done it before.



When I accidentally tripped the immobilizer system in my car here is what happened with me when trying the above method:


Step 1: Insert one of the pre-programmed transponder keys and turn the ignition to "on", leave on for at least one second ( wait until the red key symbol in the instrument cluster extinguishes), remove the key from the ignition

Problem: when I insert one of the pre-programmed keys (whether it's the first key or the second) the red key symbol in the instrument cluster does not extinguish completely.... it does not flash "repeatedly fast" like it does when I turn the key to "acc" but it keeps flashing normally like when you take the key out and activate the alarm.

So, during step one when the key is in the "on" position it flashes every second or so....(flash..................flash............... .flash............)

When the key is in the "acc" position it flashes very fast: (flash.flash.flash.flash.flash)

I did the whole step several times and nothing but I have a few questions which I am hoping you guys will be able to answer.

In step three it states that if you're unsuccessful the red light will flash repeatably when the key is in the "on" position- my key, however, keeps flashing normally- it flashes the same throughout all the steps when the key isn't in the ingnition or when you activate the alarm.

Hope that helps. If it doesn't you will have to tow it to the dealer."
 

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Stole this from another site. Not telling which one ;) I had figured that is sounded like you have tripped the immobilizer alarm on your car. Is it possible that your key programming got damaged? That or It's not your car... have you checked your plates? :p Has happened at parking lots before oddly enough. Same model & color and unlock frequencies.

"The rapid red blinking indicator light (key inside of a car) is the immobilizer.

Your immobilizer system got activated. Sorry to say, but you will have to take it to the dealer. There's some tricks that the RX8 guys did with their keys to de-activate it but it didn't work on my speed3 when my immobilizer was set off.

What the dealer does is input new "as is" data to the ecu along with a re-flash of the ecu. In IL it costs 135 (might vary per state) but they gave it to me for 110- good dealer.

Before you take it to the dealer I would recommend the following as it might or might not work. If the following doesn't work your only resort is a dealer trip.


Try this:

Okay -here are the instructions..

(The timing is critical to this procedure, please read through the entire procedure before attempting )

1. Insert one of the pre-programmed transponder keys and turn the ignition to "on", leave on for at least one second ( wait until the red key symbol in the instrument cluster extinguishes), remove the key from the ignition.


2. Within 5 seconds insert the second pre-programmed key and turn the ignition to "on" for at least one second but no more than 5 seconds (use the key symbol for this as well) then remove the second key.


3. Within 10 seconds insert the new key in the ignition and turn the ignition to "on", if you are successful the red key symbol will illuminate then extinguish after about a second.

If you are not successful the red key symbol will flash repeatedly to indicate that you have inserted an invalid key. Remove the key, wait a minute and try it again, it took me a few times to get it perfect and I had done it before.



When I accidentally tripped the immobilizer system in my car here is what happened with me when trying the above method:


Step 1: Insert one of the pre-programmed transponder keys and turn the ignition to "on", leave on for at least one second ( wait until the red key symbol in the instrument cluster extinguishes), remove the key from the ignition

Problem: when I insert one of the pre-programmed keys (whether it's the first key or the second) the red key symbol in the instrument cluster does not extinguish completely.... it does not flash "repeatedly fast" like it does when I turn the key to "acc" but it keeps flashing normally like when you take the key out and activate the alarm.

So, during step one when the key is in the "on" position it flashes every second or so....(flash..................flash............... .flash............)

When the key is in the "acc" position it flashes very fast: (flash.flash.flash.flash.flash)

I did the whole step several times and nothing but I have a few questions which I am hoping you guys will be able to answer.

In step three it states that if you're unsuccessful the red light will flash repeatably when the key is in the "on" position- my key, however, keeps flashing normally- it flashes the same throughout all the steps when the key isn't in the ingnition or when you activate the alarm.

Hope that helps. If it doesn't you will have to tow it to the dealer."
this is similar to programming new keys/by-pass units for remote starters for Chryslers. and it does take several attempts, usually. it sounds like the ecu 'dropped' the key(s), or someone was in there messing with things. as far as the Chryslers go, they can only memorize 4 keys. so if you program a 5th key, it deletes the oldest programmed key. question is, has anyone been working on your car other than the dealer that knows how to get into programming mode, has access to transponder type keys, and possibly copied one of your keys and programmed it to your car with the intention of stealing it later. sorry, i always assume the worst. if this is the case and they would have your address, then, if you can, park your car in a garage or at a friends house until the issue is resolved and explain to the dealership that you would like the memory cleared and only your keys programmed to the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
this is similar to programming new keys/by-pass units for remote starters for Chryslers. and it does take several attempts, usually. it sounds like the ecu 'dropped' the key(s), or someone was in there messing with things. as far as the Chryslers go, they can only memorize 4 keys. so if you program a 5th key, it deletes the oldest programmed key. question is, has anyone been working on your car other than the dealer that knows how to get into programming mode, has access to transponder type keys, and possibly copied one of your keys and programmed it to your car with the intention of stealing it later. sorry, i always assume the worst. if this is the case and they would have your address, then, if you can, park your car in a garage or at a friends house until the issue is resolved and explain to the dealership that you would like the memory cleared and only your keys programmed to the vehicle.
i can say i tried all this step but nothing seems to be working.
and at dealer they have to diagnose it $400 plus reflash/reprogram eu and stuff $270..
thats a lot of money..
 

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Zoom-Zoom To Da Crib.
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You've tried both keys right? Do you have an alarm on you're car (if its equipped)? How many miles do you have and when did you purchase you're car?
 

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Yes i did. And its tue factory alarm i got it 2011 and its about 33000


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:massmoon: You still have warranty, Wtf not to be rude but wtf? Lol you can bring it to the dealer no charge, they should fix it. :yes:, this isn't shouldn't even be bumper to bumper, I would consider this electrical if not that then yes it should be bumper to bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
:massmoon: You still have warranty, Wtf not to be rude but wtf? Lol you can bring it to the dealer no charge, they should fix it. :yes:, this isn't shouldn't even be bumper to bumper, I would consider this electrical if not that then yes it should be bumper to bumper.
lol yeah suppose to but idk why. they stupid im trying to get a quote for reflash the ecu on every dealer..
 

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Were you the guy that just switch your tranny to standard?
If so, could be just the clutch not being engaged properly or something related to clutch.
I thought so too. Thats why the dealer is charging him for ref lash. Swapping your tranny to manual will absolutely void your warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I thought so too. Thats why the dealer is charging him for ref lash. Swapping your tranny to manual will absolutely void your warranty.
yeah thats what they said.. but i never touch the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
okay so it was the e.c.u getting unplugged and some of the reason if you dont start your car for like a montth it may need to re program the key or e.c.u.
 

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Did you try unplugging the battery terminal? Probably won't fix it but it may be worth a shot
 

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okay so it was the e.c.u getting unplugged and some of the reason if you dont start your car for like a montth it may need to re program the key or e.c.u.
Weird, my car would go for months without being started and had no problems.

Ok if u did a trans swap of course that will void the warranty. But I didn't touch the engine- right but its still a major change to the car. I understand u wanting a standard but these cars are still new and abundant so y not just buy one that way. I actually know the whole trans swap thing since I have done it on a previous car but that car was old definitely no warranty and a hell of a lot harder to find a good condition -from the factory- 5spd.

Anyway I hope u get a break, good luck.

*3i, YES HE ALREADY DID THAT. TRY READING! :)
 
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