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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning on buying a new Mazda 3 gt hatchback 2017 with upfront cash and need some car buying tips to get the best deal. Any advice please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yeh but im not interested in financing at all, i just want to pay the cash and leave a happy man with the best deal of course. im planning to negotiate the price then tell them im paying cash when we've come to an agreement
 

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To get the best price, first thing we customer needs to do is to learn more about the vehicle we are buying than 99% of the salespersons at the dealership. We need first to become knowledgeable about all of its features, its options, and the strength and weaknesses of the particular brand and model we are interested in (watching YouTube videos by 10 car media analysts on that model is a good start).

Second, we need to do extensive internet research on not just the MSRP for the car, but pricing for all of its options, and then using kbb.com and similar sites, learn the price the dealer pays for the car you are interested in and their price for each of those options.

We need to similarly do extensive research on all the dealerships we could/would buy from. Who has a good rep, and who's rep sucks, and everywhere in between. On my last car's purchase, I put out an identical internet quote request to the seven dealers I would, after do this previous research, consider buying from. I got six quotes back and the pricing varied tremendously. Consider both Truecar.com and Costco as other means of getting pricing info.

Last when you are finally ready, actually buy the car on the last day of the month (for every dealer gets incentives from its OEM for meeting or beating monthly sales targets). And even better than the last day of the month, if you can wait, sign the contract on the last day of the quarter, or, BEST YET, buy the car on December 31st.

Hope some of this helps you.
 

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Road Trip gave a lot of good advice. Start the buying process early in the month, but don't buy until the end of the month. Work the sales rep, keep asking for a better deal. The number one thing to remember is, EVERYTHING is negotiable; price, financing, maintenance, advertising, warranty, etc. I have even had a burglar alarm installed for free. Good Luck.
 

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Last when you are finally ready, actually buy the car on the last day of the month (for every dealer gets incentives from its OEM for meeting or beating monthly sales targets). And even better than the last day of the month, if you can wait, sign the contract on the last day of the quarter, or, BEST YET, buy the car on December 31st.
This is excellent advice. Those ending dates can work even better when they don't fall on a weekend, a time when dealerships tend to have lots of potential buyers in their showrooms.

My approach is that after having done my research and knowing which model / options I want, I wait until three or four days before I plan on purchasing the vehicle to contact as many dealers as I'd be willing to travel to to pick up the vehicle. I find out who the internet sales manager is, contact him or her by phone, tell him or her that I'm buying that week, ask for their best price on the vehicle, and answer his or her questions regarding trade-in (no), financing (no), color (don't care), etc. What I'm looking for is a dealer who has a car that they really wish to sell / get rid of in a transaction on which they will need to spend little time.

The pattern that generally emerges is that most really don't want to deal on the vehicle. A few will offer respectable below-invoice pricing, and one or two will bid aggressively for my business. That's worked well for me with Tundras, Volvo wagons, and with the MZ3. I usually contact 15-20 dealers - however many are within a four hour drive of my home. When I go to the dealer, it's to sign the papers, decline all the extras they wish to sell me, and then drive away.

As @Road Trip also suggested, TrueCar, Costco, etc. can be a means of finding out if you're receiving bids that are in the ballpark price-wise.

This approach has limitations as far as vehicle color and features / options (you get what the manufacturer is supplying to your region). It also works better with the commodity vehicles I tend to buy.
 

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What a lot of folks are not aware of is that manufacturer cash back incentives exist if you agree to finance the car, but you can then pay off the entire balance on the first bill you receive so that you pay no or very minimal finance charges while still reaping the benefit of the cash back incentive.

When I bought my 2016 last summer, I wanted to pay for it in cash too, but asked:

- What financing incentives are there

- Is there any penalty for early payment of the balance

Mazda was offering $500 USD cash back at the time so we financed the purchase, then the following month payed off the whole balance and only had about $30 in finance charges, netting a $470 savings. The key is make sure no penalty fees are imposed for early payment of the balance.
 

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interesting to see how car buying ways differ from country to country..
 

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I went in with the intention of buying a 2017 M3 GT Sedan without the two option packages. But I only looked at and test drove the cars that did have the two option packages. When it came time to talk $, they gave me a price and I said I could not afford it and got up to walk away. Then the real bargaining began. The price started dropping, but not enough. So we after further haggling, we started looking at the cars that I wanted without the option packages, and the price came down again. You need to have something in your pocket to give up (option packages), and then start going down from that point.
I ended up with a GT at my price, because I gave up something and the salesman was watching me walk out the door unless I got the car I wanted at the price I wanted. I forgot to ask them to throw in a sun shade, though. Dangit. Get them to throw in some floor mats or some things from behind the parts counter. And be willing to walk. Cash means nothing to the salesman. They are not impressed by your bank roll. The bottom line number is all that counts.
 
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