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Hey guys I've searched the forum and no-one seems to have hard time with finding speakers that fits mazda 3 2013 HB
I just spent 40 minutes with a Crutchfield specialist and really beside high end expensive one.
Im new to all this and trying to do it on my own so no tech from home store would really help.
Also is there a way to find speakers that are actually upgrade to EOM like a tool that helps, because I tried some pioneers and they sucks.

Thanks guys.
 

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Demon Spawn
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they are 6x8s or 6.5" if you get an adapter your not going to find an aftermarket component set where the tweeter fits in the stock spot without mods. coaxial are easier to find and usually cheaper without sacrificing a whole lot in quality
 

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There's no much I can find including ones with adapter. The problem is not to fit the EOM screws holes but to fit the magnet at the back. There's no much room. Aw of coax I'm not interested that's why I'm looking for components speakers. The reason is that I will get more options when it will come to tweeking sounds. (I Beleive) it gives a better sound.

Thanks
 

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For after market speakers, I think you may have to get some adapters that are 3/4" thick or so (about the same thickness as the plastic that the stock speakers use). Some other members may chime in to confirm or refute this.

I have not switched mine out yet and I did try the standard adapters, but they are too thin to allow the speaker to sit closer towards the grill.
 

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I'll chime in and say, yes, Jegonzo3 is correct about the speaker spacer being required. Otherwise, the window will hit hte speakers when rolling it down. Check this guy's video out on YouTube. He replaced his Bose speakers and added an amp to power Components in the front and a sub in the rear:

This will help with a non-Bose seeing how things look once the dude takes his door panels off. I will be doing what he did to replace my BOse stereo (leaving the HU) and I will post about it eventually.
 

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I've been meaning to go to my local install shop and see if they'll make me some of the spacers out of MDF or whatever they have.
 

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Demon Spawn
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Alpine makes some very fantastic sounding coax speakers if all else fails their s and r series are absolutely amazing, but yes many component setups will need a spacer simply for the fat that the bigger speaker is a "woofer" designed for mids and midbass and not a full range speaker so it tends to be slightly larger. and just so everyone knows I won sound competitions in my old 98 pathfinder with a 6000w sub setup and 2000w 8 speaker coax setup alpine door speakers Rockford amps and subs and kenwood headunit. don't count coax out, yes placement matters some, but in a car the size of the 3 if you can get it loud placement matters not, because the human ear cannot figure out where specific sounds are coming from when many different tones (such as music) are mixed and loud enough, I won cleanest sound and loudest db in the sound race and the db race in that pathfinder, boy do I miss it. I beat a caddy with a 10000w system, a Toyota 4 runner with a 8000w system and an old wagon of some sort with a 1000w system
 

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Demon Spawn
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the factory holes even in the bose system are for 6x8 speakers, the bose system uses 6.5 components where as the non bose uses 6x8 coax and both mount in the same holes, the bose just has a plate, there is tons of room for a magnet on any sane sized speaker in our door
 

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I had JL C3-650 installed in my Gen 2 fronts.

Made my own spacers for the doors to build out the speaker. If I remember right I also trimmed a plastic rib off of the back of the door panel for additional clearance. My spacer was 1-1.5" thick, I can't remember now. It was double stacked but I can't recall if I used 1/2" or 3/4" wood.

Sail panel on the door had to be modded to fit the tweeter. I cut out the OEM grill area and used the flush mounting hardware to mount the JL tweeter. Tweeter fitment required some fiddling in the sail panel to amke sure the sail panel fit back in properly. I had to insert the tweeter in the sail panel, install the sail panel and pull the tweeter out a hair in a spot or two to make sure the sail sat properly on the door. I then built out the little gap between the sail panel and tweeter ring with some puddy, painted it black and was good to go.

X-over was in the door. I may have pulled some foam out to fit the X-over, I can't recall.

It was a lot more work than I anticipated, but it will fit if you want to make it fit. Coax will definitely be significantly easier.
 

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Demon Spawn
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I had JL C3-650 installed in my Gen 2 fronts.

Made my own spacers for the doors to build out the speaker. If I remember right I also trimmed a plastic rib off of the back of the door panel for additional clearance. My spacer was 1-1.5" thick, I can't remember now. It was double stacked but I can't recall if I used 1/2" or 3/4" wood.

Sail panel on the door had to be modded to fit the tweeter. I cut out the OEM grill area and used the flush mounting hardware to mount the JL tweeter. Tweeter fitment required some fiddling in the sail panel to amke sure the sail panel fit back in properly. I had to insert the tweeter in the sail panel, install the sail panel and pull the tweeter out a hair in a spot or two to make sure the sail sat properly on the door. I then built out the little gap between the sail panel and tweeter ring with some puddy, painted it black and was good to go.

X-over was in the door. I may have pulled some foam out to fit the X-over, I can't recall.

It was a lot more work than I anticipated, but it will fit if you want to make it fit. Coax will definitely be significantly easier.
yeah most aftermarket component setups have to have tweeter mount mods done as many oem's use oddly sized tweeters. are the bose door woofers not 6.5"? if so would a normal 6.5" not just mount into the plate already there and if need be make another out of mdf using the current as a template to match it?
 

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KMS, the speaker is built into the bracket.
 

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I don't know. I didn't have Bose in my Gen 2, I have it in my new one. It was just easier for me to shape and make my own. Was just saying what I did to work around the depth issue OP was asking about.
 

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I was watching some Youtube videos on Mazda3 speakers and I saw some people actually rip out the speaker from the plastic mount and cut out the plastic behind it. Lol I couldn't believe it.
 

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Demon Spawn
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KMS, the speaker is built into the bracket.
ah, I had not taken mine out, I assumed they would have built it for modular replacement and screwed it to the bracket. but still makes since, since factory does everything in the easiest way possible
 

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If an aftermarket tweeter doesn't fit well, consider using the Bose tweeter with the aftermarket crossover and woofer. I know they're not designed to work together but it might sound good. I personally like the sound of the Bose tweeters.
 
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