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2017 Touring Hatch
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I have been slowly acquiring all the parts I’ve seen recommended by various users. So far, I’ve got Koni Special Actives and Racing Beat springs ready to go, and the Progress rear sway bar should be here next week.

Mainly, I am looking for a bit more intel on the installation. From my previous bit of lurking on this site, there is plenty discussion about the RB springs. However, I’m seeking a bit more technical information that I couldn’t quite dig up.

I apologize if these questions have been asked a billion times.

1. Did you have to trim the bump stops?
I know that on Eibachs they give you a different front bump stop.

2. Did you change to adjustable sway bar end links?
I gather that stronger ones are definitely recommended with any RSB upgrade, and that adjustable end links seem to be a necessity for a lowered 3. I have no problem buying reputable adjustable links, but if I can save some money by going the Moog/Mevotech route then I definitely wouldn’t mind. I saw one user who claimed no issues with OEM links on a similar suspension setup.

Thank you all in advance! :)
 

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RB springs don't lower the car very much, in fact the difference is only about 1/2 " or so. The spring rates are higher than stock. Stock bump stops will probably be fine. If you want to upgrade, this set works well with lowered gen 3 cars.
Stock endlinks might work with those springs because there really isn't a big change in ride height. However, using OEM end links with a much stiffer rear bar may lead to failure. When you are upgrading your suspension, its a good idea to use the best parts you can find. Always assume that the factory parts are not up to handling the increased stresses of higher spring and bar rates.
 

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RB springs don't lower the car very much, in fact the difference is only about 1/2 " or so. The spring rates are higher than stock. Stock bump stops will probably be fine. If you want to upgrade, this set works well with lowered gen 3 cars.
Stock endlinks might work with those springs because there really isn't a big change in ride height. However, using OEM end links with a much stiffer rear bar may lead to failure. When you are upgrading your suspension, its a good idea to use the best parts you can find. Always assume that the factory parts are not up to handling the increased stresses of higher spring and bar rates.
What kind of endlinks would you recommend with his combo? i was literally just thinking about special actives and RB springs
 

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I have been using Racing Beat springs, OEM struts/shocks/endlinks/bumpstops, and Progress RSB for over 1.5 years with zero issues on my 2018 sedan. I do have the RSB set on soft. If on hard, the OEM endlinks would likely fail. I would just get the Moog links if that is the case.
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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Agree. Moog endlinks. Below links are for '14-'18 gen 3's. Some CX-5 models too.

Front passenger side


Front driver side


Rear passenger


Rear driver side

CK
 

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2015 Mazda3 iGT
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I’ve got the Moog endlinks. Have worked well so far. They’re way beefier than stock.

I got a new set of bump stops for the front and just cut the rears. Front stops are about 48mm tall. Rear bump stops we’re cut to about 76mm. And I also have the Koni SA dampers all around.
 

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Cutting the bump stops defeats the purpose of having them. They are supposed to be progressive. Cut the soft end off and you end up with a hard impact if you do get into it. Cut off the hard end and you have a squishy lump that doesn't do much....proper stops make a world of difference.
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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+1.. I killed my set of FSD struts/dampers by cutting the bump stops.. it was a costly lesson to learn.

At least it gave me an excuse to get the 5x bump stops and the special active struts/dampers.. :)
CK
 

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Agree. Moog endlinks. Below links are for '14-'18 gen 3's. Some CX-5 models too.

Front passenger side


Front driver side


Rear passenger


Rear driver side

CK
thanks m8 have a good one.
 

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2017 Touring Hatch
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Discussion Starter #11
Right on. Looks like I'll probably just get the Moog end links then. Will probably also get those bump stops as an added insurance policy. Thank you all for chiming in!
 

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1. Did you have to trim the bump stops?
I know that on Eibachs they give you a different front bump stop.

2. Did you change to adjustable sway bar end links?
I gather that stronger ones are definitely recommended with any RSB upgrade, and that adjustable end links seem to be a necessity for a lowered 3. I have no problem buying reputable adjustable links, but if I can save some money by going the Moog/Mevotech route then I definitely wouldn’t mind. I saw one user who claimed no issues with OEM links on a similar suspension setup.
I trimmed like 1/2" off the front ones just to see what'll happen. I ordered new shorter bump stops too, but haven't used them. Haven't bottomed out yet in the front or rear. I didn't even bother with the rears, they seemed stuck on the dust boot... I was just too tired and didn't wanna mess with them after a few hours of changing out the fronts. Might go back to do them, but so far everything seems fine with no cutting on the rears.

If you drive like a grandma, you'll probably never have problems with the OEM endlinks. If you want to push your car hard around corners, go ahead and get the Moogs at least. FYI, you'll need a THIN 18mm wrench to install them. A 15mm ratcheting or pass-thru socket wrench will help with tightening the nut.
 

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If you need a really thin wrench for the endlinks, go to a bicycle shop and get what is called a cone wrench. They are only a couple mm thick and will fit nicely between the bar and endlink. Or, Home Depot has a nice set of double end metric combo wrenches that are pretty much the same as a cone wrench.
 
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