2004 to 2020 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I can not believe that the brakes on my M3 are operating properly, even though the dealer says they are. It is impossible to come to a complete stop without having that jump/jerk in the whole car, it is like a little tap on the rear bumper. This happens even in neutral so it's hard to say its a transmission only problem, but I fell it is more pronounce when in gear too. Please some fellow M3 drivers explain how your brakes feel and how does your car stop, is it smooth or do you have that jerk/jump feel at ever freaking stop?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
please serious replys only.

Oh, I would rather not go through the "they need to break in" or "go lighter on the pedal", issues. I bought a 2015 base model, with 30000 miles, and my driving experience, braking experience is 30 years and probably 1,000,000 miles on dozens of different cars. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
I can not believe that the brakes on my M3 are operating properly, even though the dealer says they are. It is impossible to come to a complete stop without having that jump/jerk in the whole car, it is like a little tap on the rear bumper. This happens even in neutral so it's hard to say its a transmission only problem, but I fell it is more pronounce when in gear too. Please some fellow M3 drivers explain how your brakes feel and how does your car stop, is it smooth or do you have that jerk/jump feel at ever freaking stop?
Braking is pretty smooth and consistent for me with my '14 and I am still on OE pads ever since day one of purchase. If you really believe that there is something wrong which I do agree. You should try another dealer if this one is giving you a difficult time. Some Mazda dealers are pretty crappy from my experience with customer service honestly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Road Trip

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,553 Posts
Oh, I would rather not go through the "they need to break in" or "go lighter on the pedal", issues. I bought a 2015 base model, with 30000 miles, and my driving experience, braking experience is 30 years and probably 1,000,000 miles on dozens of different cars. Thanks
OK, but that may be exactly where the problem is. Just because you have been doing it the same way for 30 years does not mean its right. My wife has been driving for 35 years and still has not figured out that you don't need to wait until the last second then stand on the pedal......every time. She goes through a set a good pads in a year or less.:bash::bash::bash:
These cars are pretty light and the brakes stop the car very well. You don't need to stomp on them like an old Chevy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
OK, but that may be exactly where the problem is. Just because you have been doing it the same way for 30 years does not mean its right. My wife has been driving for 35 years and still has not figured out that you don't need to wait until the last second then stand on the pedal......every time. She goes through a set a good pads in a year or less.:bash::bash::bash:
These cars are pretty light and the brakes stop the car very well. You don't need to stomp on them like an old Chevy.
:bash:

I'm 25, grandfather was the usual copilot when on permit so I've more or less always slowed down early. Still on occasion I'll lapse but I've been more wary in heavy traffic and giving distance. No reason to stand on it last second. Now the only way I'll wear out the brakes in a year is if I find enough twisty roads :grin2: and they're still perfect for now.

What OP described does sound odd, if you've got even pressure and it jumps like it lets go and grabs again definitely an issue. If you press it and you get thrown forward and it stops the brakes might be new, I remember them being touchy when new until I got used to it after a few days. I drove a 2014 with 42k on it and if anything the brakes felt a bit light coming from a 16 with 15k. If you didn't notice it in the test drive and bought it then it has started happening, should get another dealer to look at it if yours says it's fine.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,553 Posts
What OP described does sound odd, if you've got even pressure and it jumps like it lets go and grabs again definitely an issue. If you press it and you get thrown forward and it stops the brakes might be new, I remember them being touchy when new until I got used to it after a few days. I drove a 2014 with 42k on it and if anything the brakes felt a bit light coming from a 16 with 15k. If you didn't notice it in the test drive and bought it then it has started happening, should get another dealer to look at it if yours says it's fine.
The thing is that the hydraulic pressure that makes the brakes work doesn't just come and go. It is either there or it isn't. It can't go away then come back by itself. The brakes work, don't work then work again? It does not work that way. Once the pressure is released you need to push on the pedal again to make the brakes work again. Something else is happening here......:dunno:

So, I can get my car to do the same thing, ie that jumping lurch forward when stopping. First thing in the morning, cold pads, a bit heavy on the pedal when going slow and bang, it stops very unexpectedly. It's not a problem with the brakes, it's a problem with the feet.:smile2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Hi. On my 3 sport 2014 it seems that the brake pedal is velocity sensitive, i.e. if I press the pedal slowly I get a gentle stop;but if I press it quickly then make sure your seat belts are tight.I am not talking about how hard I press the pedal,just how fast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
The braking on my '15 2.0L automatic has been as smooth as any other car I've ever driven.

The only time I have had a "bump from the rear" feel when coming to a stop was when my '03 Jeep Wrangler was still under warranty. I called the dealer about feeling a jerk sensation when coming to a stop. She (the service manager) asked if it felt like I'd been bumped from the rear. I said yes. She said bring it in. It was a known problem, and they repaired the automatic transmission under warranty.

My Mazda3 does not act like that.
 

·
Working Class Hero
Joined
·
3,602 Posts
I can not believe that the brakes on my M3 are operating properly, even though the dealer says they are. It is impossible to come to a complete stop without having that jump/jerk in the whole car, it is like a little tap on the rear bumper. This happens even in neutral so it's hard to say its a transmission only problem, but I fell it is more pronounce when in gear too. Please some fellow M3 drivers explain how your brakes feel and how does your car stop, is it smooth or do you have that jerk/jump feel at ever freaking stop?
Have you tried releasing the brake a bit just before you stop?

Sent from a Samsung that doesn't explode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
wow finally i've understood it's a break issue, i thought for all of this time was a trasmission problem on my 15' , i was keep on fighting with my dealer to get it checked !!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
I've got a '15 with an auto trans. When it was fairly new, I thought someone bumped me in the rear while sitting in a drive-thru. I noticed it a few other times when there was no one behind me. I assumed it was the transmission disengaging or something like that.

I still like my 3 a whole lot. Its got most of the correct checkboxes marked. The one glaring lapse is stopping power. I've seen 120 feet quoted when going from 60-0. A lot of much heavier cars stop in less than 100 feet. A friend's Lincoln weighs nearly 1000 lbs more than our 3, is much slower going 0-60, but stops 20% quicker than the 3. ABS doesn't require much skill from the driver, just stomp on the pedal. Tires would be the natural place to look for improvement. But wouldn't Mazda want to provide a car with the best specs for safety? If better tires improved stopping distance I think Mazda would provide them and advertise improved safety. Bigger rotors and pads shouldn't be the answer. The oem have the power to lock up the wheels. The larger size is mostly for heat dissipation for repeated hard breaking. Could it be the suspension design negatively effects stopping distance?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I've got a '15 with an auto trans. When it was fairly new, I thought someone bumped me in the rear while sitting in a drive-thru. I noticed it a few other times when there was no one behind me. I assumed it was the transmission disengaging or something like that.

I still like my 3 a whole lot. Its got most of the correct checkboxes marked. The one glaring lapse is stopping power. I've seen 120 feet quoted when going from 60-0. A lot of much heavier cars stop in less than 100 feet. A friend's Lincoln weighs nearly 1000 lbs more than our 3, is much slower going 0-60, but stops 20% quicker than the 3. ABS doesn't require much skill from the driver, just stomp on the pedal. Tires would be the natural place to look for improvement. But wouldn't Mazda want to provide a car with the best specs for safety? If better tires improved stopping distance I think Mazda would provide them and advertise improved safety. Bigger rotors and pads shouldn't be the answer. The oem have the power to lock up the wheels. The larger size is mostly for heat dissipation for repeated hard breaking. Could it be the suspension design negatively effects stopping distance?
120ft is perfectly average for a compact. To hit sub 100' you're spending 200% more on a CTS Vsport.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top