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hello, i am new to the forum and i just had a question. i have owned my 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 for about 4 months now, when i first got it it ran like a top, no problems at all, then about a month ago i was accelerating and it felt like the BOV opened, the boost guage droped to 0 and it stayed like that till i let off the gas and then pressed the gas again, it doesnt do it all the time, and you dont have to accerate hard for it to happen. i thought the stock BOV was crap and needed to be replaced. i put a synaspe diverter valve on it tonight, took it for a drive and it did it again, only difference now is i can actually hear it blowing off when it happens. i checks all the lines and there is no cracks in the vacum lines or anything like that. everything is tight.

has anyone had this problem? or heard of it before? i have never owned a turbo before so this is all new to me.

thank you
 

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hello, i am new to the forum and i just had a question. i have owned my 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 for about 4 months now, when i first got it it ran like a top, no problems at all, then about a month ago i was accelerating and it felt like the BOV opened, the boost guage droped to 0 and it stayed like that till i let off the gas and then pressed the gas again, it doesnt do it all the time, and you dont have to accerate hard for it to happen. i thought the stock BOV was crap and needed to be replaced. i put a synaspe diverter valve on it tonight, took it for a drive and it did it again, only difference now is i can actually hear it blowing off when it happens. i checks all the lines and there is no cracks in the vacum lines or anything like that. everything is tight.

has anyone had this problem? or heard of it before? i have never owned a turbo before so this is all new to me.

thank you
Do you have the new valve on recirc? Check for boost leaks? Have a Cobb AP to see if it is the ECU?
 

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Do you have the new valve on recirc? Check for boost leaks? Have a Cobb AP to see if it is the ECU?
i installed it the same as the stock one, i thought the old one just couldnt take the boost anymore, but the new one does it too. how do you check for boost leaks? other then just feeling for the around connections.
i do have a cobb ap, but i just got it and i am not too familar with it yet. ill throw it on tommorow and see what i can do.
 

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i installed it the same as the stock one, i thought the old one just couldnt take the boost anymore, but the new one does it too. how do you check for boost leaks? other then just feeling for the around connections.
i do have a cobb ap, but i just got it and i am not too familar with it yet. ill throw it on tommorow and see what i can do.
That's what it sounded like to me too. You sure your installed the new one correctly? All connections are secure? And google how to check a boost leak. Also, attach a WOT log/what you are doing on here so we can check it out.
 

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That's what it sounded like to me too. You sure your installed the new one correctly? All connections are secure? And google how to check a boost leak. Also, attach a WOT log/what you are doing on here so we can check it out.
i am pretty sure its all hooked up right, i could try different port configurations in the morning, i have it on A and B combined right now. and i am sorry but what is a WOT log? also i am going to try to tighten down the spring a bit at a time and see if that does anything.

thanks again
 

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i am pretty sure its all hooked up right, i could try different port configurations in the morning, i have it on A and B combined right now. and i am sorry but what is a WOT log? also i am going to try to tighten down the spring a bit at a time and see if that does anything.

thanks again
Wide Open Throttle. Not necessary just want to see of you are having boost problems. But, and yeah try that.
 

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What other mods are done to the car besides the bov? You might just be hitting boost cut. The stock tune will cut boost if you exceed 15.6 psi. You need to install the AP with the proper map A.S.A.P. so you can monitor what's going on. If your still having a problem record some datalogs and post the .csv files here. For what it's worth the stock BPV is one of the most reliable parts on the car and rarely ever fail.
 

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What other mods are done to the car besides the bov? You might just be hitting boost cut. The stock tune will cut boost if you exceed 15.6 psi. You need to install the AP with the proper map A.S.A.P. so you can monitor what's going on. If your still having a problem record some datalogs and post the .csv files here. For what it's worth the stock BPV is one of the most reliable parts on the car and rarely ever fail.
the only mods on the car is a SRI and the bov, i have a cobb tuner and have put the correct map on for the parts i have, and now that you mention it, the only time it did it after the tune was when i had it flat out and the bost guage was over 15 so if it did have a cut off then thats probably what it was. is there anyway to change where the boost cuts out at? but it has done it when just accelerating up the on ramp to the highway so it wasnt full boost, ill have to plug in the tuner and take a few drives to log some data and get it on here, see whats up. ill post it as soon as i get back tonight.

thanks
 

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the only mods on the car is a SRI and the bov, i have a cobb tuner and have put the correct map on for the parts i have, and now that you mention it, the only time it did it after the tune was when i had it flat out and the bost guage was over 15 so if it did have a cut off then thats probably what it was. is there anyway to change where the boost cuts out at? but it has done it when just accelerating up the on ramp to the highway so it wasnt full boost, ill have to plug in the tuner and take a few drives to log some data and get it on here, see whats up. ill post it as soon as i get back tonight.

thanks
Yes you can change your boost targets on the map. Target like 16-17 psi so you don't boost cut. I'm sure warlord knows a bit more about how the Cobb AP works I know only knowledge on how to tune/parts to buy. But, didn't know you had Sri so I would agree that your ecu was hitting boost cut
 

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You can request a copy of ATR from Cobb (free) and make the change to the boost cut limit (throttle close table). The ecu cuts boost by closing the throttle plate which in turn causes the BPV to blow off to release the boost that just backed up at the throttle plate. Download ATR > Load your map into ATR > make changes to map > reflash map to car.

The boost cut table is actually called (throttle close table). If you are going to raise the (throttle close table) then you also have to raise the (fuel cut table) too. Raise both those tables 1psi higher than their present values and you should be good.

Cobb recently relaxed the boost error comp tables (wastegate dynamics) in the new v.231 maps so that people could boost higher in the warm weather. Now that the weather is cold people are over boosting by a little bit and running into boost cut issues. Raising both tables by just 1psi is just enough to get them out of the way, still be safe and avoid boost cut issues.

Subbed for a log of where this issue happens. Might not be boost cut at all. Make sure you check the throttle position box in datalog parameters on the AP so you include that in the log. WOT log is best. In third gear at 2500 rpm's push the datalog button and floor it. Don't let off the gas till you hit 6500 rpm's then push button to end datalog.

COBB Tuning AccessTUNER Race Request Form

Pics of what the tables look like and where then can be found in ATR. Don't use my values. Just raise yours by 1psi. I'm also including a sample wot log. Notice the throttle position it should rise and then hold steady at approx 76-78. If it drops suddenly in the middle of the log then the ecu just cut the boost by closing the throttle.
 

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