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I've been following this thread for a while now. My idea for my sub setup stirring in my head. I was finally able to get it designed and out on paper. Now, my boxes are en route to me via my parents. I'm not able to work on projects like this at home because my "work area" is rather small. But, I'm moving soon to a place with a two car garage so I should be able to start my own projects. I was, however, able to get this started with my dad down in Texas. The boxes are complete, and my parents are bringing them to me because they're coming to Chicago for my daughters first communion.

My design was initially going to be a one piece, but determined that would have been too challenging to transport. It's now a three piece design, two boxes plus an amp shelf. The boxes will be located on either side of my spare in the hatch, with the amp shelf being placed between the spare and the rear of the backseat. I'll also design a cover for protection of the subs, as well as to replace the OEM cover. All that's left now is to purchase the equipment to integrate my setup with the Bose system.

In the next couple days, I'll post pictures of how the boxes look in the hatch with the spare tire.
Did you make the boxes yourself? Really interested in the same type of setup but don't have the skills or the tools to make such a custom box. Would you be willing to make and ship 1 of them?
 

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Did you make the boxes yourself? Really interested in the same type of setup but don't have the skills or the tools to make such a custom box. Would you be willing to make and ship 1 of them?
If you have access to a cnc cutter or water jet (I have a waterjet) ive got the CAD files for my box, goes together like a jigsaw puzzle.

Box is 3 piece with the "sub" boxes bolted to the front main via flanges and gaskets. Shame postage would be a killer as iam about to rip it all out and make new with a single 15.











 

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Does this install still allow the seats to fold down? Seems like you'd have to remove the arm rest to allow space when the seats fold.

Thanks.
 

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Good news!
It actually does work. The fuse is rated for 50A - so about ~650W or so. My sub is only 200W RMS so I should have no problem.
8 Gauge wire fits in there perfectly, the plastic cap slides over without an issue - no cutting required
My engine bay looks 100% stock

I installed a Cerwin Vega 10" compact powered sub in the center arm rest in the back seat

I'm very proud of my installation, I hit all the wires underneath all the plastic door trim pieces all the way to the back. Absolutely no wires are visible. The trunk is 100% left untouched. I sacrificed absolutely no space in my car by doing it this way.
The only wires that are visible are the connections on the bottom of the subwoofer which I am going to cover up soon. I might get some black vinyl and cover a small piece of wood cut to fit to make a 'cover'

check it out
Does this install still allow the seats to fold down? Seems like you'd have to remove the arm rest for space.

Thanks
 

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Does this install still allow the seats to fold down? Seems like you'd have to remove the arm rest for space.

Thanks
the 40 split seat can still fold down no issue
the 60 split side has the arm rest/subwoofer
I CAN still fold that side down as well... but I'd rather not because then I have to be careful with the subwoofer as its going to fall out and I have all the wires neatly tucked in
I can always just take a few minutes and unplug it and remove it completely if I really need too.
 

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the 40 split seat can still fold down no issue
the 60 split side has the arm rest/subwoofer
I CAN still fold that side down as well... but I'd rather not because then I have to be careful with the subwoofer as its going to fall out and I have all the wires neatly tucked in
I can always just take a few minutes and unplug it and remove it completely if I really need too.
Thanks, I like what you've done there.
 

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I went from:
10" compact powered sub
to a dedicated rockford fosgate amp and a 12" ported sub combo @4ohms
to finally dual 10" powerbass in a sealed box running in parallel @2ohms on the rockford amp

And omg the difference in each upgrade was huge

The 10" compact powered sub was OK and delivered more bass than the factory BOSE door woofers
But it really wouldn't shake anything in the car - some people may be completely happy with this

I was then itching for more bass and got the rockford amp and the 12" powerbass in the ported enclosure
The amount in increased bass it gave was night and day compared to the compact sub
It hit much lower notes and shook my rear view mirror
It definitely added a completely new layer of audio fidelity to music - I was very happy with this

However.. I listen to a lot of rock/metal and wasn't very satisfied listening to music in that genre.
Drum kicks were very boomy and weren't defined at all
After doing some research I familiarized myself with the differences in ported to sealed subs, and I knew that's what I wanted.

So I went ahead and bought a sealed pre-fab box and 2 of PowerBass's mid/high range subs and put it all together.
and holy **** I am completely happy with this set up now.
Drum kicks are so defined and hit hard and overall any bass is so smooth.
And my biggest surprise is that these 2 10's in the sealed box hit LOWER bass than the 12' ported sub did.
I was under the impression that a bigger sub in a ported box usually hits lower.
Albeit the 12' I had is one of powerbass's entry level subs and was only running @4ohms whereas the 2 10's @2ohms so they are getting more power.

The box fits nice and snug in the trunk and still gives me plenty of room to spare.

Just wanted to share my experience w/ my audio upgrades on my 3
 

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Sorry to bring this back..

I got a JL Microsub+ (the one with the integrated amp), the 8" flavor, and installed it with the Mazda PAC module.

The installer used the rear-speaker output to connect the sub. However, at lower listening volume (15-ish), the sub does not make a difference, it's too quiet. The gain is set around 70% on the amp. If I turn up the volume (25+) then I can hear the sub.

Should I connect the sub to the front speaker output, or just try to increase the gain?I know that 8" won't rattle the windows, but at normal listening levels I'm expecting the sub to make a difference.

Note that I have the Infinity 3022cfx in the dash already, the rest are just the stock BOSE speakers.
 

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Sorry to bring this back..

I got a JL Microsub+ (the one with the integrated amp), the 8" flavor, and installed it with the Mazda PAC module.

The installer used the rear-speaker output to connect the sub. However, at lower listening volume (15-ish), the sub does not make a difference, it's too quiet. The gain is set around 70% on the amp. If I turn up the volume (25+) then I can hear the sub.

Should I connect the sub to the front speaker output, or just try to increase the gain?I know that 8" won't rattle the windows, but at normal listening levels I'm expecting the sub to make a difference.

Note that I have the Infinity 3022cfx in the dash already, the rest are just the stock BOSE speakers.
This is my completely plug and play setup that I did on my 2014 Mazda 3 iGrand Touring with factory Bose sound system.....

6. Plug the 1.5 ft patch cable into the PAC AOEM-MAZ2. (I used the front speaker leads because those are the "subwoofers" of the bose system.) I also taped them together so they won't come apart.
View attachment 72793
Nope, it was the FRONT not the REAR.


Jumping in here to see if anyone has done this again with a 2106 M6 Touring with Tech (Bose) or not? I don't have easy access to the car right now as the wife is driving it or I would search for the TAU myself.

E: Sorry for anyone subscribed, i just realized I answered a question from a year ago and not last week. I'm going to go back to holiday drinking now, carry-on!
 

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I went from:
10" compact powered sub
to a dedicated rockford fosgate amp and a 12" ported sub combo @4ohms
to finally dual 10" powerbass in a sealed box running in parallel @2ohms on the rockford amp

And omg the difference in each upgrade was huge

The 10" compact powered sub was OK and delivered more bass than the factory BOSE door woofers
But it really wouldn't shake anything in the car - some people may be completely happy with this

I was then itching for more bass and got the rockford amp and the 12" powerbass in the ported enclosure
The amount in increased bass it gave was night and day compared to the compact sub
It hit much lower notes and shook my rear view mirror
It definitely added a completely new layer of audio fidelity to music - I was very happy with this

However.. I listen to a lot of rock/metal and wasn't very satisfied listening to music in that genre.
Drum kicks were very boomy and weren't defined at all
After doing some research I familiarized myself with the differences in ported to sealed subs, and I knew that's what I wanted.

So I went ahead and bought a sealed pre-fab box and 2 of PowerBass's mid/high range subs and put it all together.
and holy **** I am completely happy with this set up now.
Drum kicks are so defined and hit hard and overall any bass is so smooth.
And my biggest surprise is that these 2 10's in the sealed box hit LOWER bass than the 12' ported sub did.
I was under the impression that a bigger sub in a ported box usually hits lower.
Albeit the 12' I had is one of powerbass's entry level subs and was only running @4ohms whereas the 2 10's @2ohms so they are getting more power.

The box fits nice and snug in the trunk and still gives me plenty of room to spare.

Just wanted to share my experience w/ my audio upgrades on my 3
What size amp are you using to power both 10s at 2 ohms?
 

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This is probably the worst car I've ever put a subwoofer in. EVERYTHING RATTLES. Rattling in the front and severe rattling in the back. This is in a sedan btw. It's not the license plate either. The entire trunk and everything back there rattles on medium volume. Only pushing about 500 watts. Anybody have a similar experience with a fix before I rip everything out and dynamat the hell out of the trunk?
 

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I've narrowed down most of the rattles. The entire back deck lid rattles horribly. The rear bumper rattles mostly on the sides behind the wheels. The entire piece of plastic up front underneath the outside windshield under the wipers rattles. My poor neighbors already hate me as I have a constant 50hz playing trying to eliminate each rattle point one by one. I have removed all of the lining from the trunk, including the spare tire and jack which actually didn't do anything. I guess my next step is to remove the back deck lid and try to reinforce with some foam underneath in between the plastic and metal frame. Not sure how I am going to tackle the bumper to be honest. The hollowness of the bumper causes so much flex in the plastic when the bass hits. I am determined to reduce as much rattling as possible but may have to live with some in the end...
 

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Just an update: The rear taillights rattled incessantly as well so I removed those and put 1/4" x 3/8" weather stripping all around and re-installed. I removed the rear wheel well liners and weatherstripped there as best I could to reduce plastic on plastic rattling.

With the plastic rear deck removed and all of the plastic trim on the sides removed there is still some metal rattling going on that I can't pinpoint so I've given up at this point. I've removed most of the rattles and can finally listen to my music without hearing all of that. Just shows me how cheap these cars are actually made (Still love her though). ;)
 

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This is interesting. When I contacted PAC and asked them about our car with the Bose system, they warned me not to use it or it would possibly damage the system. It will be interesting to see if it continues to work over time. I went with AudioControl because I wanted to compensate for the programmed bass fall-off. And I installed the LOC after the amp, not before it. It is not a difficult install either way, but it does take time to run the wires if you do it properly and use plastic ties rather than just routing it under the carpet.
hi,
I am in the research stage myself and saw at least one different method of installation. It's important to differentiate whether or not it's for a Bose system or a standard factory system. I have a Bose factory system in my 2014 S GT. When I went to Amazon to look at the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Interface, the title says; " PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Interface That Allows Replacement or Addition of an Amplifier in Select Mazda Vehicles Without a Factory Bose Sound System". Reading on it says: "Not designed for use with Bose systems." You said you based your instructions on pdpdrummer805's install Stock Stereo Sub Install - 2014 Mazda 3 iTouring
So I went over there and it's right in the title "Stock Stereo Sub Install - 2014 Mazda 3 iTouring"
His instructions are not for your car if you have a Bose system. Didn't you say the manufacturer told you not to use the PAC?
I bought a sub from Crutchfield. they sent me an LOC. I specified it was for a BOSE system.Here's the part:



 

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hi,
I am in the research stage myself and saw at least one different method of installation. It's important to differentiate whether or not it's for a Bose system or a standard factory system. I have a Bose factory system in my 2014 S GT. When I went to Amazon to look at the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Interface, the title says; " PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Interface That Allows Replacement or Addition of an Amplifier in Select Mazda Vehicles Without a Factory Bose Sound System". Reading on it says: "Not designed for use with Bose systems." You said you based your instructions on pdpdrummer805's install Stock Stereo Sub Install - 2014 Mazda 3 iTouring
So I went over there and it's right in the title "Stock Stereo Sub Install - 2014 Mazda 3 iTouring"
His instructions are not for your car if you have a Bose system. Didn't you say the manufacturer told you not to use the PAC?
I bought a sub from Crutchfield. they sent me an LOC. I specified it was for a BOSE system.Here's the part:



I just performed a spare tire subwoofer install in a 2014 Mazda 3 Hatch WITH the Bose system. I followed these instructions and it went smoothly. The PAC AOEM-MAZ2 DOES work with the Bose system....even though the packaging/website says differently. I originally bought it from Amazon without reading that part, noticed it AFTER receiving it and sent it back. I did some digging and found this thread and ordered it again and sent the LOC back to Amazon.

Works like a champ, no LOC needed.
 
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