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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my completely plug and play setup that I did on my 2014 Mazda 3 iGrand Touring with factory Bose sound system. I was expecting this install to be harder than it was but actually it was just about the easiest one I've ever done.


Materials Used
1. PUNCH Loaded Enclosures - P300-10 - Rockford Fosgate®
2. Amazon.com: PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller: Car Electronics
3. Amazon.com : DB Link CK8Z 8 Gauge Competition Series 17-Feet Amplifier Installation Kit (Blue) : Vehicle Amplifier Power And Ground Cables : Car Electronics
4. Amazon.com: Monoprice 1.5ft Premium 2 RCA Plug/2 RCA Plug M/M 22AWG Cable - Black: Electronics
5. Most Importantly Amazon.com : PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Mazda Add An Amplifier Adapter : Vehicle Audio Auxiliary Adapters : Car Electronics
You don't need the pac inline volume adjustment but I wanted the ability to control the input to the amp. That way I can turn it all the way down if I please.

1. I based this off of pdpdrummer805's install http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-mazda-3-skyactiv-how-guides/56866-stock-stereo-sub-install-2014-mazda-3-itouring.html oviously with some variations. I grounded my amp to one of the holes just behind the rear passenger seat in one of the random holes that are their already. I used a 1/2" bolt (I think that was the size. I forget), which screwed into the whole without any drilling.
2. I ran the RCA and turn-on wire down the passenger side under the trim. The power wire I ran down the driverside in the trim and went through the firewall in the same manner as pdpdrummer805.
One thing I found helpful on both sides of the car when routing my wires was on the front of the fuse panel cover and the cover on the opposite side of the car there are plastic nuts that are hand tightened on that you can take off and route your wires behind the plastic cover much easier.
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3. I removed the glovebox to gain access to the TAU. open the glovebox, pull both sides together to remove the stoppers and then pull the damper off of the right side and it then opens further and the hinges on the bottom just pull out.
The TAU is to the right of the fan unit.
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4. you can see the larger white connector that plugs into it. you have to unplug that and plug the orange connector of the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 into that factory harness. Then take the white connector from the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 and plug it into the TAU. You now have two sets of Pre-amp outputs.
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5. Great News! The acc power on the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 actually does work, even though they advertise that it doesn't.
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6. Plug the 1.5 ft patch cable into the PAC AOEM-MAZ2. (I used the front speaker leads because those are the "subwoofers" of the bose system.) I also taped them together so they won't come apart.
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7. Run the patch cable through the dash. I went behind the climate control unit. This patch goes to the input of the pac volume controller.
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I came out here.
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The patch cables plugged into the input and taped
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8. Run your RCA cables for the amp input through the same route. for this I used a piece of scrap wire to pull them through.
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These go to the pac volume controller output.
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9. You will see on the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 there are adjustments for the output level of the rca leads. I adjusted them to the highest setting which wasn't far from where they were out of the box. I then taped the extra RCA leads to to the unit itself and ziptied it up to to right of the fan unit and put the glovebox take in.
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Here is the finished product.
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All in all I think this setup sounds great. I came from a 1200 Watt system in my old car to this 300 Watt system and I'm actually pretty impressed with it and the stock bose speakers sound exactly the same to me as far as output and quality, which I was worried about losing some quality out of my front speakers. This was extremely easy install that took about 2 or 3 hours and you don't even have to take the center display out.
 

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This is interesting. When I contacted PAC and asked them about our car with the Bose system, they warned me not to use it or it would possibly damage the system. It will be interesting to see if it continues to work over time. I went with AudioControl because I wanted to compensate for programmed bass fall-off. And I installed the LOC after the amp, not before it. It is not a difficult install either way, but it does take time to run the wires if you do it properly and use plastic ties rather than just routing it under the carpet.
 
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Yeah I was going to do it the way that you did it at first but then I saw the pac adapter so I did some research and I saw that others with older models said it worked fine for them. so I decided to give it a try and so far so good.
 

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This is interesting. When I contacted PAC and asked them about our car with the Bose system, they warned me not to use it or it would possibly damage the system. It will be interesting to see if it continues to work over time. I went with AudioControl because I wanted to compensate for programmed bass fall-off. And I installed the LOC after the amp, not before it. It is not a difficult install either way, but it does take time to run the wires if you do it properly and use plastic ties rather than just routing it under the carpet.
Hey could you write out a guide on how you did it? Or could you point me to a post where I can find this information?
 

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Cool man thanks! Just one more question. Are you still able to use the front speakers you tapped into?
Absolutely. The AudioControl LOC pulls very little from the line.
 

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Hey did you loose the steering volume and track control? I lost mine when i placed in the PAC OEM.
I did not lose mine with the AudioControl LOC. But that is located after the amp under the passenger seat and not before it like the PAC product is used.
 
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
the acc power on the PAC gets connected to the remote turn on lead on the amp. Basically it applies power when the car is acc or run mode. I guess a lot of previous years this acc lead on the PAC did not work but it does for the 2014's with Bose.
 

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the acc power on the PAC gets connected to the remote turn on lead on the amp. Basically it applies power when the car is acc or run mode. I guess a lot of previous years this acc lead on the PAC did not work but it does for the 2014's with Bose.
Thanks to your instructions and parts list I bought the 12" version and installed it perfectly.

One thought was maybe I need to find a spot to permanently mount the volume control for the sub so I can adjust it independently.

Would I use the rockford's volume control or the pac inline controller?

 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thanks to your instructions and parts list I bought the 12" version and installed it perfectly.

One thought was maybe I need to find a spot to permanently mount the volume control for the sub so I can adjust it independently.

Would I use the rockford's volume control or the pac inline controller?

I didn't use the rockford's volume controller because I haven't had good luck with those kind of controllers working right but it would probably be fine. I just did the pac controller because I had good luck with it the last time I used it. I didn't permanently mount mine yet either because I wanted to find the spot on the panel below the steering wheel that I liked it the best. I just have double sided tape holding it up for now haha. I also don't like the idea of putting holes in that part of the dash :wacko:
I think Im going to find a way to mount the sub because I live on very rough and curvy roads and it constantly is flopping over.
 

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Thanks to your instructions and parts list I bought the 12" version and installed it perfectly.

One thought was maybe I need to find a spot to permanently mount the volume control for the sub so I can adjust it independently.

Would I use the rockford's volume control or the pac inline controller?

I didn't use the rockford's volume controller because I haven't had good luck with those kind of controllers working right but it would probably be fine. I just did the pac controller because I had good luck with it the last time I used it. I didn't permanently mount mine yet either because I wanted to find the spot on the panel below the steering wheel that I liked it the best. I just have double sided tape holding it up for now haha. I also don't like the idea of putting holes in that part of the dash :wacko:
I think Im going to find a way to mount the sub because I live on very rough and curvy roads and it constantly is flopping over.
I put my volume controller under the driver's seat so I could easily reach it, but it wouldn't show. Be careful where you mount your sub as you want to be able to get to your spare. Since I put in a compact powered sub, I mounted it about 1" above the trunk floor and that allowed me to easily remove it for emergencies.
 
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how did you power the amp? does the acc power supply enough current, or did you wire up power separately?
I wired it up separately directly from the battery with an 8 gauge wire as you are supposed to do. I used an 8 gauge Boss amplifier install kit. Our battery has an extra terminal with a built-in fuse. I actually hooked it to a distribution block in the hatch area because I had trailer wiring to power as well. I powered the LOC, however, from ignition power with a 12 gauge wire. You want the ground wire as close as possible to the amp. There is a bolt holding the RCBM where it was attached.
 

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I also used the 8 gauge kit. This is the one I used Amazon.com : DB Link CK8Z 8 Gauge Competition Series 17-Feet Amplifier Installation Kit (Blue) : Vehicle Amplifier Power And Ground Cables : Car Electronics
like RVOLL said you just run the positive wire from the battery and fuse included in the kit to the amp/sub positive lug. I ran my ground wire to just under the carpet covered plastic divider that is under the rear seat back when you flip it forward but you can ground it to wherever you can get a good metal service. I used the 18 gauge wire (also in the kit) to run from the amp turn on (accessory power) lead on the PAC AOEM-MAZ2. I show a picture of the amp turn on though.

all in all this is the same setup as if i put in an aftermarket head unit, the difference being that instead of plugging your rca cable and amp turn on wire into the headunit you plug it into the PAC AOEM-MAZ2. Hopefully explaining it in this manner helps more than it confuses.:001_smile:
 
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