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Demon Spawn
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, first off I know there are other threads here on this subject. None answered me the way I need, so im making another.

I have a 2011 GT Hatch with the Bose system, what all will I need to keep the factory steering wheel controls? I don't care about the little red screen displaying anything other then the auto a/c controls it needs to display, and I don't care about retaining navi or sat. radio functions (navi is outdated and too small anyways, phone is much easier) I just want to retain my trip computer and all other steering wheel controls, perhaps even factory Bluetooth if possible.

The main reason I want to swap just the head unit is I am tired of wasting money on car audio that doesn't do much but make others at the red light look at you funny, the bose system has good enough response for me anymore, but using the phone over Bluetooth gets to be a pain when your phone is getting older and freezes randomly while trying to load the music player and then restarts, and I have a nice kenwood x998 from my totaled 08 sitting at the house collecting dust that will allow me to use a usb stick instead of Bluetooth to listen to my music, so what all accessories does one need to install to have an aftermarket headunit work with the factory bose system? I know I need the dash kit and a PAC wiring harness to the tune of $100+ to retain the steering wheel controls is there anything else?
 

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You will need a wiring diagram to figure out the speaker wires. I had the bose system, but ripped it all out and installed a nice front component set that gets about 115rms each side, and a 10 inch sub that is seeing about 800 rms. Night and day difference from stock bose
 

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I think KMS isn't looking out to change the speakers right now, just the head unit.

Generally, the wiring harness has the wire connections listed on the packaging and it'll just plug into the harness that the old stereo plugged into.
 

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Demon Spawn
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
yeah, im not looking to switch amps/speakers just yet just the headunit. im getting tired of the rat race for the loudest system in a car and the stock bose sounds fine. its not the clearest but it has good highs and mids and with my phone on Bluetooth streaming I can set the EQ on the phone to turn the bass up and get the sub actually kicking. hell the stock system vibrates the pictures on the living room next to the garage when im in the garage and turn it up to 55 with phone EQ set and volume on phone all the way up. and messing with the google play music eq the stock bose sounds great actually, it does not hit hard (trust me I know my totaled 08 had a 2000w system in it) but it sounds as clear as that system did when tuned right, just not as loud. but im tired of aftermarket systems anymore spend too much time/money on it to just have to rip it out when you wreck the car or sell it. plus all the crap I would need to buy (I pawned the sub and amp from the 08 to get rid of them no takers on craigslist) that and I need the storage in the hatch with the job I have now so a real sub setup is out of the equation, it would need to be stealth install that would not really net me much. I do still have the 4 channel jbl amp from the 08 it can easily push 50w constant power a channel at 4 ohms and its no bigger then the factory bose amp. (im am not pawning this as I got it for a steal brand new and wont give it up)

the old sub/box and mono amp I pawned I had had for a long time and felt I got my usefulness out of them, hell the sub was an old 1000w rms alpine type r that was reconed and I got it on craigslist for $80 4 years ago, it was wearing out anyways (lots of heavy use by me, for $80 why not and had been in 3 cars) the box was a prefab that the sub almost rattled apart, but met the specs for the sub, the sub amp was a planet audio (I know, not the best but made the sub hit HARD) planet audio 4000.1d (2000w rms at one ohm, had it wired to 2 ohm according to spec sheet it had 1500w at 2 ohms but I figured it was an overrated amp (though it was big so 2000w at the best) and at 2ohm I figured I was getting 1100w or so so just a little more then needed (volt meter when tuning stated voltage right above 1000w power it was close to 1100w when 1/3 up on gain) turned bass boost up slightly and called it a day no one knew I only had 1 12" everyone swore it was 2 or more subs, people just don't know real sound systems, hell I had 6 subs at 6000w total power in an old pathfinder that was a system, it would knock stuff off shelves when I pulled up at a store. anyways I am growing tired of this type of system, because every dumbass kid has one now so I just want more control over what the car has now and a usb port (kenwood 1 din I have in my closet by the jbl amp has 2 usb ports)

anyways what all do I need to retain steering wheel controls, wire in the stereo to factory wiring/amp and keep the info display working when needed for door chimes and other warnings like parking brake and advanced key warnings, and my trip computer, I don't use or care about the navi system. I know I need the pac rp4-mz11 harness and a dash kit for the radio but what all else do I need? I know the red screen above the auto climate part becomes just dead after this and that's fine, as long as the main display screen will display the trip computer with avg fuel economy/current fuel economy and the other info it normally does (outside the radio screens with artist and what not) and it displays and makes all the warnings and chimes through that screen it would normally and the auto climate control part of the screen still works that's all I need. so what all outside the pac rp4-mz11, and a dash kit do I need? cartoys said a wiring adapter for the antenna and a loc to use the factory amp as well as the rp4-mz11 and the dash kit, does that sound right? the rp4-mz11 looks as if it has the line out plugs needed, but I maybe mistaken.
 

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That should be all you need to hook up your stereo.

Shouldn't take more than a few hours, especially if you get the wiring harness first and make the connections to the stereo ahead of time. Just be careful pulling out the vents, try not to break any of the plastic tabs, trust me, I know, I've had to glue parts of it back together to stay in there correctly and allow the vents to move up/down.

Sorry, I just realized that the wiring harness comes with the PAC RP4-MZ11. It's been awhile since I've installed mine and forgot until I looked at the web page, but yes, that's all you'll need (and the dash kit, but you already know that).

jegonzo3
 

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Demon Spawn
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
That should be all you need to hook up your stereo.

Shouldn't take more than a few hours, especially if you get the wiring harness first and make the connections to the stereo ahead of time. Just be careful pulling out the vents, try not to break any of the plastic tabs, trust me, I know, I've had to glue parts of it back together to stay in there correctly and allow the vents to move up/down.

Sorry, I just realized that the wiring harness comes with the PAC RP4-MZ11. It's been awhile since I've installed mine and forgot until I looked at the web page, but yes, that's all you'll need (and the dash kit, but you already know that).

jegonzo3
so I just need a dash kit and the rp4-mz11? I don't need an extra LOC or other harnesses for the antenna to work with the kenwood radio? and yeah I know the vents and stuff are brittle, thanks for the warning though, my 08 I broke a few of the vent holders and had to glue them back, I also broke the dash kit in the 08 and had to glue it together and use washers on the screws to hold it down right.

I have installed many aftermarket radios in several cars, this is just the first one I have ever had with the integrated can bus signals and crap in the radio wiring, theyre trying harder and harder with each new car to make changing the radio impossible
 

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No, you don't have to do any connections to the amp, it's all done through the wiring harness. The antenna is the standard-type, so you should be good to go there also.
 
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Demon Spawn
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
hm, crutchfeild shows it as a female type antenna (I do have sat radio) that will require a female to male converter to slide into the hole in the kenwood deck, so its just like the older 3 with a round plug (looks like the old school headphone tips) on the end of the wire that slides into the hole for the radio plug in?

cructhfield shows I need the rp4-mz11, link: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541RP4MZ11/PAC-RP4-MZ11-Wiring-Interface.html?tp=3486, a metra 40-hd10 antenna adapter, link: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040HD10/Metra-40-HD10-Antenna-Adapter.html?tp=2569 and a metra dash kit Metra 99-7514B, link: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120997514B/Metra-99-7514B-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121 totaling $144.97 with free shipping from them
 

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I'm pretty sure you don't need the metra 40-hd10 antenna adapter link, but I wouldn't be able to verify until after work today. I've taken the damn thing apart so many times, but don't recall the antenna part. lol
 
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Demon Spawn
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Discussion Starter #11
anyone have any experience with eonon products? are they any good? they make several to fit just right in our car and retain all features without additional accessories.
 

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Some of the other guys have installed the Eonon, search the name in the Audio and Electronics and you'll find them. Me personally, I would not buy one, I've heard issues with them (I think software-wise). I'll stick with my Pioneer.
 
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