[S3BAZ1091]

Hello Ladies & Gentlemen,

Currently running a year and some months with my 2015 S Touring with Bose, i recently had my front right Bose speaker "blow out" and replaced by Mazda. I kept hearing a rattle on the door and thought it was something inside the door but turns out the speaker was blown. Today i started to experience the same issue but now on my drivers side. Did some research here and came to find that whats happening is that the diaphragm from the speaker in the back is coming apart due to cheap glue by BOSE and water getting on it. According to the posts i found, water can seep through the window and onto the speaker cause the glue to come off and ruin the speaker. This is a huge design flaw by Mazda. I live in Florida where humility and rain is a huge factor. So my questions are has anyone had this same issue and what did you do to fix it? and also what are some plug in play speakers i can use ? i have some some guides on upgrading the system but it all requires different amps and etc, and i am really not trying to do all that. Just want to know if there's any drop in speakers i can replace that hold up to that little moisture that seeps through. Thanks in advance.

 

[dwebb01]

Unfortunately with Bose it's more difficult to replace things since most of their equipment is proprietary. They often use 1 and 2 ohm speakers since their amps have little power. Those speakers can be difficult to find in the aftermarket world. Additionally, I believe that all of the speakers are crossed over in the amp or Bose sound processor somewhere in the stereo. So the door speakers will likely not be getting the full range of frequencies, just bass or mids or whatever up to a certain Hz.

If I were you I would try to figure out the size of the door speakers and then look at JBL or Inifinity for replacements. They often have speakers that are 2 ohms. However, you will likely lose some bass by replacing the OEM Bose speakers.

 

[Valor_X]

Good question, and yes its true that this BOSE system has weird ohm ratings.

"For those looking to upgrade their systems I have tested the door speaker and it is a 1 ohm speaker 2014+ Bose Mazda 3. Also the Bose amp splits up the output frequencies. The rear door speakers only get mid-range frequencies and the front gets lows and highs, with the door thumpers and dash squawkers being wired in parallel.

The only way to upgrade that I see best is to buy two, two channel amps with high level inputs one for the back and one for the front."

From http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2016-mazda-3-skyactiv-audio-electronics/171714-2014-design-flaw-affects-all-bose-systems.html

I don't know if you can find anything aftermarket that would work.. but if you do let us know your findings

Anyway, I did upgrade the dash speakers to aftermarket without a problem
My voltmeter shows the stock BOSE dash speakers at ~4.4 ohms
Most aftermarket 3.5" speakers are 4 ohms

I made a guide here http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2016-mazda-3-skyactiv-how-guides/172802-bose-upgrading-dash-speakers-almost-plug-play.html

 

[mtnbiker26]

Another factor is that aftermarket speakers tend to need more power to work well. They have much heavier magnets and stiffer cones so weak factory head units usually can't properly drive the speaker. You'd also have to do some fabricating to create a bracket to reduce the 8 or 9 inch hole down to the typical 6 or 6.5 inches. This is usually done with MDF and a jigsaw or router. After all that work you would likely find that the new speakers play at a lower volume and distort more easily. The easiest solution might be to stay with the Bose speakers and replace / re-install the baffles with a better adhesive.

I have a 2016 3 GT hatch and I added a sub and replaced the dash speakers with some Pioneers that have real tweeters. I'm pretty handy and I've done full system installs on a few of my other vehicles but that's all I dare to change on this car. Messing with the Bose system is somewhat of an "all-or-nothing" situation. If you replace the speakers then you need to replace the amp. If you replace the amp then you need to "sum" (re-combine) the channels to get a full range signal to send to your new crossovers and amp. It's also my understanding (not certain) that ripping out the factory amp causes a loss of volume control and loss of steering wheel controls so you have to address that issue as well.

 

[S3BAZ1091]

thanks everyone for your input, no wonder no one has done anything like im trying to do. i guess sticking with bose and maybe upgrading the dash would be best. thanks again guys, really appreciate it ! and valor, i did see your guide, that is something i am looking into doing. i was thinking of spaying maybe a coat or two of plasti dip to the rip of the diaphragm behind the speaker to protect it from water? i feel like plastidip is good because its not a heavy cover up and its flexible but also adheres pretty good to surfaces.

 

[S3BAZ1091]

Another factor is that aftermarket speakers tend to need more power to work well. They have much heavier magnets and stiffer cones so weak factory head units usually can't properly drive the speaker. You'd also have to do some fabricating to create a bracket to reduce the 8 or 9 inch hole down to the typical 6 or 6.5 inches. This is usually done with MDF and a jigsaw or router. After all that work you would likely find that the new speakers play at a lower volume and distort more easily. The easiest solution might be to stay with the Bose speakers and replace / re-install the baffles with a better adhesive.

I have a 2016 3 GT hatch and I added a sub and replaced the dash speakers with some Pioneers that have real tweeters. I'm pretty handy and I've done full system installs on a few of my other vehicles but that's all I dare to change on this car. Messing with the Bose system is somewhat of an "all-or-nothing" situation. If you replace the speakers then you need to replace the amp. If you replace the amp then you need to "sum" (re-combine) the channels to get a full range signal to send to your new crossovers and amp. It's also my understanding (not certain) that ripping out the factory amp causes a loss of volume control and loss of steering wheel controls so you have to address that issue as well.

Good question, and yes its true that this BOSE system has weird ohm ratings.

"For those looking to upgrade their systems I have tested the door speaker and it is a 1 ohm speaker 2014+ Bose Mazda 3. Also the Bose amp splits up the output frequencies. The rear door speakers only get mid-range frequencies and the front gets lows and highs, with the door thumpers and dash squawkers being wired in parallel.

The only way to upgrade that I see best is to buy two, two channel amps with high level inputs one for the back and one for the front."

From http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2016-mazda-3-skyactiv-audio-electronics/171714-2014-design-flaw-affects-all-bose-systems.html

I don't know if you can find anything aftermarket that would work.. but if you do let us know your findings

Anyway, I did upgrade the dash speakers to aftermarket without a problem
My voltmeter shows the stock BOSE dash speakers at ~4.4 ohms
Most aftermarket 3.5" speakers are 4 ohms

I made a guide here http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2016-mazda-3-skyactiv-how-guides/172802-bose-upgrading-dash-speakers-almost-plug-play.html

Unfortunately with Bose it's more difficult to replace things since most of their equipment is proprietary. They often use 1 and 2 ohm speakers since their amps have little power. Those speakers can be difficult to find in the aftermarket world. Additionally, I believe that all of the speakers are crossed over in the amp or Bose sound processor somewhere in the stereo. So the door speakers will likely not be getting the full range of frequencies, just bass or mids or whatever up to a certain Hz.

If I were you I would try to figure out the size of the door speakers and then look at JBL or Inifinity for replacements. They often have speakers that are 2 ohms. However, you will likely lose some bass by replacing the OEM Bose speakers.

hanks everyone for your input, no wonder no one has done anything like im trying to do. i guess sticking with bose and maybe upgrading the dash would be best. thanks again guys, really appreciate it ! and valor, i did see your guide, that is something i am looking into doing. i was thinking of spaying maybe a coat or two of plasti dip to the rip of the diaphragm behind the speaker to protect it from water? i feel like plastidip is good because its not a heavy cover up and its flexible but also adheres pretty good to surfaces.

 

[huecobros]

Hope this helps

 

[Valor_X]

Hope this helps

That doesn't seem right

our cars don't have dedicated tweeters in the A pillars and the amp is located under the passenger seat

You sure that's not for a Mazda 6 or something?

 

[mtnbiker26]

thanks everyone for your input, no wonder no one has done anything like im trying to do. i guess sticking with bose and maybe upgrading the dash would be best. thanks again guys, really appreciate it ! and valor, i did see your guide, that is something i am looking into doing. i was thinking of spaying maybe a coat or two of plasti dip to the rip of the diaphragm behind the speaker to protect it from water? i feel like plastidip is good because its not a heavy cover up and its flexible but also adheres pretty good to surfaces.

To elaborate a bit more:
Folks have replaced the door speakers but it was part of a much bigger project. The full systems I've seen on here were around $3000 and done by pros. I believe the 2014's and 2015's used an 8" door speaker and the 2016's use a 9" door speaker. Either way, it's not a drop in install.

I followed Pianoman854's post to install the Pioneer Reference 3002 dash speakers and it went smoothly. ValorX's post is similar and has more info on the plastic mount that needs to be cut. I highly recommend a short serrated blade to cut the plastic. I used one from an X-acto set I have but a course hacksaw blade cut down to four or five inches would work too. I chose to de-solder the plug from the OEM speaker and make a pigtail with it. I soldered the other ends of the pigtail to the Pioneer speaker. This allowed me to just plug in the Pioneer speaker to the factory wiring. It was a bit more work and it ruined the OEM Bose speakers but it didn't cost anything and didn't require cutting any factory wiring.

As far as the Plasti-Dip goes....I might be misunderstanding what you mean but I'm not sure it will work. I suspect what you refer to as a "diaphragm" is the baffle behind the door speaker. A baffle usually functions as an enclosure (like a wood speaker box). When the speaker cone moves it creates air pressure that pushes and pulls on it's enclosure. I suspect that Plasti-Dip on the baffle would fail pretty quickly.

 

[Cookie_Thumper]

You'd also have to do some fabricating to create a bracket to reduce the 8 or 9 inch hole down to the typical 6 or 6.5 inches. This is usually done with MDF and a jigsaw or router.

MDF did not do all that well in my front doors.

 

[mtnbiker26]

Is that all mildew and rot?

 

[Cookie_Thumper]

Is that all mildew and rot?

yes.

 

[S3BAZ1091]

To elaborate a bit more:
Folks have replaced the door speakers but it was part of a much bigger project. The full systems I've seen on here were around $3000 and done by pros. I believe the 2014's and 2015's used an 8" door speaker and the 2016's use a 9" door speaker. Either way, it's not a drop in install.

I followed Pianoman854's post to install the Pioneer Reference 3002 dash speakers and it went smoothly. ValorX's post is similar and has more info on the plastic mount that needs to be cut. I highly recommend a short serrated blade to cut the plastic. I used one from an X-acto set I have but a course hacksaw blade cut down to four or five inches would work too. I chose to de-solder the plug from the OEM speaker and make a pigtail with it. I soldered the other ends of the pigtail to the Pioneer speaker. This allowed me to just plug in the Pioneer speaker to the factory wiring. It was a bit more work and it ruined the OEM Bose speakers but it didn't cost anything and didn't require cutting any factory wiring.

As far as the Plasti-Dip goes....I might be misunderstanding what you mean but I'm not sure it will work. I suspect what you refer to as a "diaphragm" is the baffle behind the door speaker. A baffle usually functions as an enclosure (like a wood speaker box). When the speaker cone moves it creates air pressure that pushes and pulls on it's enclosure. I suspect that Plasti-Dip on the baffle would fail pretty quickly.

yes, ive seen that the ones that have upgraded are way to complex, i just wanted a drop in solution, and yes its the back of the speaker, i am just looking to do a top cover around the rim, this is just to prevent water from getting in and messing up the glue, causing the diaphragm to come apart.

 

[S3BAZ1091]

MDF did not do all that well in my front doors.

cant seem to be able to see your pics