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The One and Only
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finally got around to installing my new bi-xenon projectors from The Retrofit Source. I first had 5000k bulbs and did not like the color output and got 4300k bulbs and am VERY happy with them! The light output is clear and has a razor sharp cut off line. You will notice a difference and will like pulling up to the car in front of you to see how sharp the cut off line is.

Link to the site where I got them. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pr...d=254&osCsid=715802c4875e26c6e457d157d0b3cfa4





Tools needed

1. Screwdriver
2. Sockets
3. Heat gun or oven
4. Ramps or jackstands
5. gloves

1. Remove front bumper. Here is a link. Novustechnic Multimedia Solutions



2. Unscrew headlights.




3. Remove 3 screws holding the leans on the housing.



4. Use a heat gun or bake them in the oven to heat up the glue to pull the headlights apart. I used a heat gun.





5. Remove the 1 screw holding on the shroud on the bottom. You can paint them now if you want to.



6. Remove the 4 screws holding in the projector. You will see the little bit that needs to be trimmed.





Tap in the high beams after you install the projectors.


Best tool for the job



Differences with the DDM's Raptors and Miromoto ballasts



Razor sharp cut off line that has a nice blue tint to it when you hit bumps for on coming cars.



Differences with the stock projectors and the clear aftermarket ones.








Reassemble in the reverse order and install in car. The difference is night and day. This is the rear sway upgrade for your headlight. Totally made my DDM's look like aftermarket halogen bulbs. The road lights up crystal clear and no blinding oncoming traffic. I'll try to shoot some videos to show how well they actually work. If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me.

If you find this post useful, please click the "thanks" button. :yes:
 

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Peanutbutter Jelly!!!
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So do we need the shrouds or do we reuse the stock one? Also it is the H11 with High beam taps? Do we need the long cord and we want North American Standard projectors, right?
 

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Finally!!! Thanks man!
 

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- we re-use the stock ones since the morimotos will still fit in there.
- yes you may want the high beam taps if your going to use the bixenon function.
- it depends on your requirements if you need the long cords or not.
- yes you need the north american projectors.

HTH.

So do we need the shrouds or do we reuse the stock one? Also it is the H11 with High beam taps? Do we need the long cord and we want North American Standard projectors, right?
 

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when's the next update bro?
 

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Oh ok get well soon sir! Will do the project today. :)
 

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done with the swap too! 55w 5000k ddm vs 35w 5000k morimoto, morimoto wins no doubt!

will re-open the headlights though since the BIXENON monograms messed up the chrome of my shroud. probably will have to paint it black too like dunston's.

will have pics and videos too as soon as the weather clears up. :)
 

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Here is a pic with the 5000k bulb in the drivers side and 4300k in passenger side. The 4300k lights up the road a million times better then the 5000k bulbs.
wow, this couldn't be a dumber a statement... of course 4300K is gonna be brighter than 5000K. the lower the temperature, the higher the lumens.
 

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Both of you are making me regret my recent DDM purchases :argh 1:... Post pics so we can all see the difference, preferably a before (DDM) and after (Morimoto) shot. Thank you!
 

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Both of you are making me regret my recent DDM purchases :argh 1:... Post pics so we can all see the difference, preferably a before (DDM) and after (Morimoto) shot. Thank you!
get rid of your hid kit. NOW! :D

i'll try to find a pic of DDM before. if i have it.
 

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Low beam: DDM 55W 5000k (color modded OEM projectors, that's why it has some blue/purple at the cutoff)
Fogs: DDM 35W 3000k

Picture taken from an iPhone.

 

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One thing I noticed with my DDM 55w lights is that although it projects far forward, there's little beam spread to the sides. How is the beam spread with the Morimotos?
 

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So here's the Morimoto.

 
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