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Brand of oil filter

  • Mobil 1 extended performance

    Votes: 69 30.8%
  • K&N gold

    Votes: 30 13.4%
  • Fram

    Votes: 20 8.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 105 46.9%

  • Total voters
    224
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Jaysus this is a never ending quandary spread equally across other car forums as well. If the OEM filter is good enough for the carmaker who made the engine in first place, why do car owners keep feeling the need to second guess their decision.

Pat.
A lot of OEM parts are often not the best quality, and *most* parts Mazda buys from other companies, stamps their logo on them, and then resells for a slightly higher cost (for instance our tranny fluid I know for sure is rubbish, I drained all that out at 40k and never going to use OEM Mazda transmission fluid in my Mazda 3 again after I saw how quickly it goes bad)

Oil filters don't need to be amazing, they do a simple job, just don't get a crummy cheap one and you'll be fine with whatever one you go with as long as you stick with normal oil change intervals.

I go with Bosch distance plus, because it isn't too pricey and it's a quality filter.

You can't go wrong with OEM tho, really it is a huge preference thing. Just don't get dirt cheap filters because you're shooting yourself in the foot if you do. You may save 4 dollars every 7,500 miles but you'll lose more engine life.
 

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Great thread! I have *always* used synthetic oil in ALL my vehicles - approx. 40 motorcycles and 10 or so cars to date - and I've never had an oil-related failure. I got started way back when with Mobil 1 and I'm quite satisfied with its performance. However, I've recently made the switch to Rotella T-6 Synthetic because of test reports I've seen and the price is *very* good - $22 at WalMart for a gallon jug.

I did extensive research on oil filters and it appears that the K&N is among the most well-built filters out there. Additionally, the K&N filter has a nut welded onto it allowing you to use a wrench to remove and install the filter. This is a great feature because I've encountered filters before that seemed to have been installed by King Kong on a bad day. A few of those filters required me to jam a screwdriver completely thru the filter to allow me to remove it - YIKES!!

I know that a couple folks here won't buy the K&N because it is made in China. The country of manufacture is the LAST thing I'd care about, I simply want a quality filter at a reasonable price. The K&N filter easily meets those criteria.

So, as it stands now, I can do a complete synthetic oil and filter change on my car for about $35 - not too shabby, IMHO. And, BTW, I've adopted a 10,000 mi. oil change interval (90% highway driving in non-dusty conditions) that I start when the car reaches an even "decade" of mileage: 10k, 20k, 30k, etc.. This makes it VERY easy to remember when to make the change...

-CD-
 

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You change at 10k but Mazda recommends 7.5k. It probably doesn't hurt to keep it at 10k especially with high quality oil and filters. I know for sure both of those products are rated well past 10k of usage.

In any case, I still change mine out every 7.5k. I agree 35$ for a high quality oil change is great, I just did mine today! Asking people what oil and oil filter is good is always a little crazy. Full synthetic oil of any brand and an oil filter that cost more than 6$ then you're set.
 

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You change at 10k but Mazda recommends 7.5k. It probably doesn't hurt to keep it at 10k especially with high quality oil and filters. I know for sure both of those products are rated well past 10k of usage.

In any case, I still change mine out every 7.5k. I agree 35$ for a high quality oil change is great, I just did mine today! Asking people what oil and oil filter is good is always a little crazy. Full synthetic oil of any brand and an oil filter that cost more than 6$ then you're set.
Mobil1 0W-20 Synthetic goes for about $22-24 at my local Walmart (37128). Then I get either a Wix, K&N filter or Napa Gold filter, which ever is cheapest.
 

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Best Filter

I was wondering what types of oil and oil filters you all recommended? For the oil I'm guessing Mobil 1, but for the filter I don't really know which brand is the best- Mobil 1 EP, Fram, K&N gold or another brand...how long do you recommend before getting your oil changed again after you have switched to Mobil 1 and a high performance oil filter?
I've always used the OEM filters. I spend ~$100 on the car in gas every month, so $10 for an OEM filter once or twice year really isn't bad. I get them from Amazon here (as well as Mobil 1 Synthetic oil): [ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00727BDN2?keywords=skyactiv%20oil%20filter&qid=1444094965&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1[/ame]

Honestly, at the end of the day, they are basically just cans with some material in them to catch debris, and a spring loaded bypass valve. As long as the material of the valve and filter material is good quality, then any brand should be fine. I've always just gone with OEM to be safe. Just one guys' opinion. :smile2:
 

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...... And, BTW, I've adopted a 10,000 mi. oil change interval (90% highway driving in non-dusty conditions) that I start when the car reaches an even "decade" of mileage: 10k, 20k, 30k, etc.. This makes it VERY easy to remember when to make the change...

-CD-
This... Why did I not think of this? Lol, I put reminders on sticky notes on when to change oil, but this is a much better system as I also do ~10k changes.
 

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I just purchased my mazda3, I have yet to do an oil change but from what I've been reading the oem filter is necessary as it allows for a high flow system to function properly. These filters are not only high quality but relatively inexpensive as well. I'm still not sure what oil is correct to use. From forums it seems people are using any 0w20 full synthetic but some posts recommend the Mazda moly oil. I just purchased Castrol edge (black bottle) and some Mos2 additive.
 

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Has anyone been using either the WIX 57002 or NAPA Gold FIL7002 filter on their SKYACTIV engine? I will continue to use the Mazda PE01-14-302, A, B until my drivetrain warranty expires. After that, I was thinking of buying the NAPA Gold FIL7002(same as the WIX 57002) when NAPA has their 50% off NAPA Gold filter sale.
 

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Additionally, the K&N filter has a nut welded onto it allowing you to use a wrench to remove and install the filter. This is a great feature because I've encountered filters before that seemed to have been installed by King Kong on a bad day. A few of those filters required me to jam a screwdriver completely thru the filter to allow me to remove it - YIKES!!
The nut on the K&N can be abused by the nut doing the oil change ... Several people who use them on the motorbike I ride (Honda VFR) have reported leaks caused by failure of the nut. If you only use the nut to help remove the filter, all should be good. However, some clearly use it to tighten the filter causing cracks in the metal and leaks--messy in a car, dangerous on a bike (can coat the rear wheel with oil). Someone even found promotional literature from K&N suggesting the nut can be used for installation as well as removal. :surprise:
 

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I'm a believer that a clean filter is the best choice one can make. To each his own on brand to use. I change my filter at 4 k and again at the end of my 8k oil change interval. I have never seen an oil related issue on and car that had their car oil and filter changed between 4k to 6k. This is going back to the late 60's. None of my parents their friends no one in my highschool graduating class of 600 none of my Army buddies or college classmates ever had an oil related engine problem. Now that's not to say those people who drive over 160k might develop an oil leak due to an old seal or pan gasket leak. These are not caused by the oil or filter you use. Just maintain your car and keep the oil clean. I don't follow Mazda's recommended 0W-20 weight oil and my choice is to use 0W-40 Castrol European blend. Individuals with 2nd Gen Mazdaspeed 3's are using Rotella T6 5W-40.
 

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So... your personal experience is better then a Billion Dollar corporation like Mazda who developed and designed every detail of your Skyactiv engine??? Ok. I guess I'll go dump the 0w20 they recommend and put in 20w50 because all your 600 high school friends who you seem to keep in touch with and know every detail of their car's maintenance schedule never had any problems doing so.

Thanks for the advice.

Oh and FWI, the oil goes bad before the filter ever reaches maximum capacity. You can run the oil 7,500 miles, dump the oil and use the oil filter a second interval and it still won't be full.

A used filter filters oil better then a brand new filter anyway.
 

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Demon Spawn
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Dealer fill is with 0W-20 Castrol so you'll be fine with Castrol Edge.
depends on the dealer dude. the autonation dealer near me uses autozone no name 0w20 synthetic oil and stp filters from autozone ask me how I know. hint I used to work at autozone and autonation would buy the oil in bulk (12-30 cases of 16 quarts each every week) and they would do the same with the filters the bulk mazda part numbers they even listed them to the new guys and the new guys had to cross reference them I knew the numbers they needed off hand.I will never use autonation mazda for anything, they are crooks and cheats and probably tell the people that they use a brand name oil when they use off brand crap. Its kinda sad because that dealer wants $60 for that oil change when I could buy my own mobil1 or Castrol edge oil with a k&n, or mobil 1 filter for $40 or if it was on special $29 with stp extended life (made by same umbrella company as mobil 1 filters, but different company makes regular stp filters) and if I did not feel like doing the oil change myself I could go next door and the kwik kar would change it for me with my oil and filter for $10. or now after leaving autozone and getting an IT career I go to walmart (open later and cheaper) I can get mobil 1 for $22-25 and a fram ultra synthetic filter for $12 and either change it myself or pay kwik kar to do it (the kwik kar near me does competent work and has yet to mess any of my cars up, the manager lives near me and is a great guy, a real car guy, its nice when you know who runs the place and he runs it well)

I like Castrol Edge, and Mobil1 about equally and recently have found the Mobil on sale cheaper so I have been going Mobil1, I get whichever is cheaper when I need the oil for my Oil Change Mobil1 or Castrol Edge of course looking at prices with filters too because sometimes the jug alone is cheaper but you can get both the jug and filter and its better deal.

I do 5k oil change intervals easy to remember that as well, I get the tires rotated same day as the oil change too, makes it easier. Plus oil is cheap insurance to a long lasting engine, Ill pay more to change it a little more often to have piece of mind knowing that its fresh and in good shape.

To the filters I agree mainly get one over $6 and your ok, but they are not all equal. you want a silicone anti drain back valve as this helps the longevity of the filter and you want a nice heavy canister for it to be in since its down near the road, rocks are bound to hit it at some point even with the under shield, thicker the better and the stp extended life is tops on that, but that means slight reduction in internals so that's why its rated for 10k miles and mobil 1 says up to 15k thinner casing more filter. I have decided to take the middle road and use the fram ultra synthetic as it has a nice thick shell, the grippy stuff, up to 15k change interval silicone anti drain valve, good spring inside and metal supports where most are plastic or cardboard inside to keep it more rigid as it ages. wix and mobil one and purolater make fine filters as well, and I am sure the oem is fine too but I am not driving across town to the other mazda dealer to buy them, or ordering them online when I have a plethora of other brands at my local stores where I buy the oil same day and usually find a special that includes the filter I want for free that may/may not be as good or better but function the same and look the same as oe
 

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Demon Spawn
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So... your personal experience is better then a Billion Dollar corporation like Mazda who developed and designed every detail of your Skyactiv engine??? Ok. I guess I'll go dump the 0w20 they recommend and put in 20w50 because all your 600 high school friends who you seem to keep in touch with and know every detail of their car's maintenance schedule never had any problems doing so.

Thanks for the advice.

Oh and FWI, the oil goes bad before the filter ever reaches maximum capacity. You can run the oil 7,500 miles, dump the oil and use the oil filter a second interval and it still won't be full.

A used filter filters oil better then a brand new filter anyway.
I agree with your observation on his oil weight remarks, mazda spent a lot of r&d on the oil viscosity for each engine, how does he know better then them? they desgined the engine! but the filter part depends on filter. some cheap ones you would be lucky if they hold enough to go 5k before filling up, but top tier ones could go 12-20k easy Im still not to trustful of things I pick up off the shelf that claim to last x amount of time though, so I spend more and change my oil every 5k like mazda says I should in the schedule 2 , it is dusty in my area sometimes and hot a lot so 7500 may push it too far but I do use synthetics and good filters, I have been thinking of going to 7.5k change intervals as I work further from home now and put a lot more miles on the car just cruising down the highway, which is not very hard on it. but this would mean longer tire rotation intervals as I am ocd and like to keep the oil and tire rotation intervals the same. I do not know if its a good idea to really go 7500 miles before rotating the tires on these cars, the way the suspension is.....
 

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Filter capacity is an interesting topic that even the good folks on Bob Is The Oil Guy can't fully test.

Oil filters are rated based on their filtering capability. Mobil 1 filters better then an Fram orange can of death. The Mobil 1 can more filter media and it's much tighter, hence why it's able to catch finer particles then the Fram, which lets most big size chunks thru it's crappy filter media.

Now if you think about it, the Mobil 1 filter will fill up first, because it's catching and holding particles A, B, C where as the Fram only catches A & B particles so it never has to deal with the smaller C particles, for example. After 5,000 miles, which filter technically has more dirt in it...? The M1 of course. Now because the M1 filter has more media inside, it's able to deal with all that dirt and continue filtering for many more miles.

In conclusion, I wouldn't worry about a filter "filling up" anyway, unless your engine is shedding an absurd amount of metal. Our new engines are super efficient and run very clean. My used oil analysis showed very little metal in the oil, compared to other engines which shed much more crap.

The important thing is technically which filter catches more dirty and which one has the finest filter media to catch the smallest particles. In this case, the high end M1, Royal Purple, Amsoil and a few others which recently released their own versions of Synthetic filter media to catch more dirt is your answer.

There's a reason why Amsoil's Bypass Oil Filter System is designed to filter out EVEN SMALLER particles from the oil, which in turn keeps the oil clean and healthy, so you can run the oil 25, 40, or 100k+ miles in some cases without NEEDING an oil change.

It's all about which filter CLEANS THE BEST.

Now if you're going to the track, good flow is essential, so something like a K&N is good in this case because you need oil flow for protection vs filtration on the track.

I choose to use the OEM Mazda filter because I like its design and high attention to detail and my oil analysis showed it does a good job cleaning my oil. :thumbup1 1:
 

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I don't follow Mazda's recommended 0W-20 weight oil and my choice is to use 0W-40 Castrol European blend. Individuals with 2nd Gen Mazdaspeed 3's are using Rotella T6 5W-40.
Why would you bring up a BOOSTED model designed for power and compare it to your Eco Box designed for fuel efficiency and think that just because Mazda recommended a thicker oil for the Speed3 that it's also good for your base model 3? Lol.

The previous gen Speed3 came out in 2007. Oil specs were different in 07 vs what we have TODAY, a good 10 freakin years of technological advancement in engine design as well as oil specifications. I'm willing to bet that if / when Mazda makes another Speed3, it will recommend 0w20 for it. Hahahahaha. Your argument is weak my friend but it's your car and your oil choice. Do whatever floats your boat.
 

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Demon Spawn
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Filter capacity is an interesting topic that even the good folks on Bob Is The Oil Guy can't fully test.

Oil filters are rated based on their filtering capability. Mobil 1 filters better then an Fram orange can of death. The Mobil 1 can more filter media and it's much tighter, hence why it's able to catch finer particles then the Fram, which lets most big size chunks thru it's crappy filter media.

Now if you think about it, the Mobil 1 filter will fill up first, because it's catching and holding particles A, B, C where as the Fram only catches A & B particles so it never has to deal with the smaller C particles, for example. After 5,000 miles, which filter technically has more dirt in it...? The M1 of course. Now because the M1 filter has more media inside, it's able to deal with all that dirt and continue filtering for many more miles.

In conclusion, I wouldn't worry about a filter "filling up" anyway, unless your engine is shedding an absurd amount of metal. Our new engines are super efficient and run very clean. My used oil analysis showed very little metal in the oil, compared to other engines which shed much more crap.

The important thing is technically which filter catches more dirty and which one has the finest filter media to catch the smallest particles. In this case, the high end M1, Royal Purple, Amsoil and a few others which recently released their own versions of Synthetic filter media to catch more dirt is your answer.

There's a reason why Amsoil's Bypass Oil Filter System is designed to filter out EVEN SMALLER particles from the oil, which in turn keeps the oil clean and healthy, so you can run the oil 25, 40, or 100k+ miles in some cases without NEEDING an oil change.

It's all about which filter CLEANS THE BEST.

Now if you're going to the track, good flow is essential, so something like a K&N is good in this case because you need oil flow for protection vs filtration on the track.

I choose to use the OEM Mazda filter because I like its design and high attention to detail and my oil analysis showed it does a good job cleaning my oil. :thumbup1 1:
yes a "mobil 1" filter will filter better then a cheap fram. but your comparing apples to bananas at that point, if you look at the filtering capacity of fram ultra synthetic and mobil 1 filters they are identical if you buy a basic filter you cant say its a pos compared to a better filter in another class that costs more. its about what you want out of it, do you want long change intervals and good filtering or short change intervals and ok filtering.

another thing many dont realize is champion labs makes stp, mobil 1, k and n, and most of the oil company branded filters such as quaker state, pennzoil etc. fram makes their own and alot more of the oem filters then many realize and wix makes just about all the rest such as napa's filters. I have used stp extended life, fram ultra, wix xp, napa gold, and paltinum and they all filter very well and achieve great results for 6-7.5k mile oil changes i dont like going longer as temps in texas vary widely and humidity changes i like getting the worn out oil out around 6k miles as its also a convenient tire rotation mileage. if you want your cars engine to last a long time spend more on the filters and change the fluids more extra oil changes cost less then a new engine. its all about what you want out of your car, long lasting prformance? use good synthetics and good filters like fram ultra, mobil 1, wix xp, napa gold/platinum, stp extended life and change the oil and filter regularly. chap car that may or may not last a long time? use basic oil, or wrong wight, dont bother checking fluids regularly or changing them regularly and use cheap filters. i even drain and fill my tranny fluid (auto) every 3 oil changes to keep it fresh, flushed the coolant at 70k miles (even though 120k is what mazda says) and change the brake fluid every time i change pads and rotors, but i want my car to last a long time and be reliable and fluids are the lifeblood of a car and if they are not in good shape then the car cannot be.
 

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Although you brought up some good points, it doesn't matter that if Champ Labs makes a bunch of different filters. They are all branded differently and built differently according to their spec and price range.

This thread is titled Best Oil Filter. Although all synthetic media filters are good and will get the job done, I feel the best one on the market right now is Mobil 1 with its 20k capacity and superior filtration. All others like Fram Ultra are playing catchup.

Sure they are all top notch filters but you have to give credit wheee credit is due. Mobil 1 makes one hell of an oil filter. They are leading the way.

Amsoil was considered the best at one point with their 25k ratings but they've since dropped most filters to a safe 15k rating for capacity but filtration wise they are up there with M1 if not better.
 
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