A lot of OEM parts are often not the best quality, and *most* parts Mazda buys from other companies, stamps their logo on them, and then resells for a slightly higher cost (for instance our tranny fluid I know for sure is rubbish, I drained all that out at 40k and never going to use OEM Mazda transmission fluid in my Mazda 3 again after I saw how quickly it goes bad)Jaysus this is a never ending quandary spread equally across other car forums as well. If the OEM filter is good enough for the carmaker who made the engine in first place, why do car owners keep feeling the need to second guess their decision.
Mobil1 0W-20 Synthetic goes for about $22-24 at my local Walmart (37128). Then I get either a Wix, K&N filter or Napa Gold filter, which ever is cheapest.You change at 10k but Mazda recommends 7.5k. It probably doesn't hurt to keep it at 10k especially with high quality oil and filters. I know for sure both of those products are rated well past 10k of usage.
In any case, I still change mine out every 7.5k. I agree 35$ for a high quality oil change is great, I just did mine today! Asking people what oil and oil filter is good is always a little crazy. Full synthetic oil of any brand and an oil filter that cost more than 6$ then you're set.
I've always used the OEM filters. I spend ~$100 on the car in gas every month, so $10 for an OEM filter once or twice year really isn't bad. I get them from Amazon here (as well as Mobil 1 Synthetic oil): [ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00727BDN2?keywords=skyactiv%20oil%20filter&qid=1444094965&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1[/ame]I was wondering what types of oil and oil filters you all recommended? For the oil I'm guessing Mobil 1, but for the filter I don't really know which brand is the best- Mobil 1 EP, Fram, K&N gold or another brand...how long do you recommend before getting your oil changed again after you have switched to Mobil 1 and a high performance oil filter?
This... Why did I not think of this? Lol, I put reminders on sticky notes on when to change oil, but this is a much better system as I also do ~10k changes....... And, BTW, I've adopted a 10,000 mi. oil change interval (90% highway driving in non-dusty conditions) that I start when the car reaches an even "decade" of mileage: 10k, 20k, 30k, etc.. This makes it VERY easy to remember when to make the change...
The nut on the K&N can be abused by the nut doing the oil change ... Several people who use them on the motorbike I ride (Honda VFR) have reported leaks caused by failure of the nut. If you only use the nut to help remove the filter, all should be good. However, some clearly use it to tighten the filter causing cracks in the metal and leaks--messy in a car, dangerous on a bike (can coat the rear wheel with oil). Someone even found promotional literature from K&N suggesting the nut can be used for installation as well as removal. :surprise:Additionally, the K&N filter has a nut welded onto it allowing you to use a wrench to remove and install the filter. This is a great feature because I've encountered filters before that seemed to have been installed by King Kong on a bad day. A few of those filters required me to jam a screwdriver completely thru the filter to allow me to remove it - YIKES!!
depends on the dealer dude. the autonation dealer near me uses autozone no name 0w20 synthetic oil and stp filters from autozone ask me how I know. hint I used to work at autozone and autonation would buy the oil in bulk (12-30 cases of 16 quarts each every week) and they would do the same with the filters the bulk mazda part numbers they even listed them to the new guys and the new guys had to cross reference them I knew the numbers they needed off hand.I will never use autonation mazda for anything, they are crooks and cheats and probably tell the people that they use a brand name oil when they use off brand crap. Its kinda sad because that dealer wants $60 for that oil change when I could buy my own mobil1 or Castrol edge oil with a k&n, or mobil 1 filter for $40 or if it was on special $29 with stp extended life (made by same umbrella company as mobil 1 filters, but different company makes regular stp filters) and if I did not feel like doing the oil change myself I could go next door and the kwik kar would change it for me with my oil and filter for $10. or now after leaving autozone and getting an IT career I go to walmart (open later and cheaper) I can get mobil 1 for $22-25 and a fram ultra synthetic filter for $12 and either change it myself or pay kwik kar to do it (the kwik kar near me does competent work and has yet to mess any of my cars up, the manager lives near me and is a great guy, a real car guy, its nice when you know who runs the place and he runs it well)Dealer fill is with 0W-20 Castrol so you'll be fine with Castrol Edge.
I agree with your observation on his oil weight remarks, mazda spent a lot of r&d on the oil viscosity for each engine, how does he know better then them? they desgined the engine! but the filter part depends on filter. some cheap ones you would be lucky if they hold enough to go 5k before filling up, but top tier ones could go 12-20k easy Im still not to trustful of things I pick up off the shelf that claim to last x amount of time though, so I spend more and change my oil every 5k like mazda says I should in the schedule 2 , it is dusty in my area sometimes and hot a lot so 7500 may push it too far but I do use synthetics and good filters, I have been thinking of going to 7.5k change intervals as I work further from home now and put a lot more miles on the car just cruising down the highway, which is not very hard on it. but this would mean longer tire rotation intervals as I am ocd and like to keep the oil and tire rotation intervals the same. I do not know if its a good idea to really go 7500 miles before rotating the tires on these cars, the way the suspension is.....So... your personal experience is better then a Billion Dollar corporation like Mazda who developed and designed every detail of your Skyactiv engine??? Ok. I guess I'll go dump the 0w20 they recommend and put in 20w50 because all your 600 high school friends who you seem to keep in touch with and know every detail of their car's maintenance schedule never had any problems doing so.
Thanks for the advice.
Oh and FWI, the oil goes bad before the filter ever reaches maximum capacity. You can run the oil 7,500 miles, dump the oil and use the oil filter a second interval and it still won't be full.
A used filter filters oil better then a brand new filter anyway.
Why would you bring up a BOOSTED model designed for power and compare it to your Eco Box designed for fuel efficiency and think that just because Mazda recommended a thicker oil for the Speed3 that it's also good for your base model 3? Lol.I don't follow Mazda's recommended 0W-20 weight oil and my choice is to use 0W-40 Castrol European blend. Individuals with 2nd Gen Mazdaspeed 3's are using Rotella T6 5W-40.
yes a "mobil 1" filter will filter better then a cheap fram. but your comparing apples to bananas at that point, if you look at the filtering capacity of fram ultra synthetic and mobil 1 filters they are identical if you buy a basic filter you cant say its a pos compared to a better filter in another class that costs more. its about what you want out of it, do you want long change intervals and good filtering or short change intervals and ok filtering.Filter capacity is an interesting topic that even the good folks on Bob Is The Oil Guy can't fully test.
Oil filters are rated based on their filtering capability. Mobil 1 filters better then an Fram orange can of death. The Mobil 1 can more filter media and it's much tighter, hence why it's able to catch finer particles then the Fram, which lets most big size chunks thru it's crappy filter media.
Now if you think about it, the Mobil 1 filter will fill up first, because it's catching and holding particles A, B, C where as the Fram only catches A & B particles so it never has to deal with the smaller C particles, for example. After 5,000 miles, which filter technically has more dirt in it...? The M1 of course. Now because the M1 filter has more media inside, it's able to deal with all that dirt and continue filtering for many more miles.
In conclusion, I wouldn't worry about a filter "filling up" anyway, unless your engine is shedding an absurd amount of metal. Our new engines are super efficient and run very clean. My used oil analysis showed very little metal in the oil, compared to other engines which shed much more crap.
The important thing is technically which filter catches more dirty and which one has the finest filter media to catch the smallest particles. In this case, the high end M1, Royal Purple, Amsoil and a few others which recently released their own versions of Synthetic filter media to catch more dirt is your answer.
There's a reason why Amsoil's Bypass Oil Filter System is designed to filter out EVEN SMALLER particles from the oil, which in turn keeps the oil clean and healthy, so you can run the oil 25, 40, or 100k+ miles in some cases without NEEDING an oil change.
It's all about which filter CLEANS THE BEST.
Now if you're going to the track, good flow is essential, so something like a K&N is good in this case because you need oil flow for protection vs filtration on the track.
I choose to use the OEM Mazda filter because I like its design and high attention to detail and my oil analysis showed it does a good job cleaning my oil. :thumbup1 1: