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Unless you wanna overspend that seems to be the best option. I have this on my Progress RSB without any issues. I plan to pick up another set for the fronts but I'm in no rush.
 

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Unless you wanna overspend that seems to be the best option. I have this on my Progress RSB without any issues. I plan to pick up another set for the fronts but I'm in no rush.
If you are lowering the car you should put adjustable links on both front and rear bars just to get them back into the correct position.
 

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Another option is a replacement link from Moog. They're usually beefed up quite a bit over oem and are pretty cheap on rockauto
 

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The relative angle between the bar and the rest of the suspension needs to be maintained in order for things to works as they should. Having the bar at the wrong angle could result in banging and clunking, and puts stresses on the brackets that could cause failure.

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Also, if the car is lowered significantly, the outer end of the bars can hit things they are not supposed to hit when the suspension is compressed. So, you need to realign the bars to the proper relative position. My car is lowered 45mmR and 20mmF and the rear bars were tapping the floor on large bumps.
 

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I have the eBay ones, they keep working loose and popping no matter how tight they are. Shop says the bolt is a smaller diameter than OEM and holding the OEM links up to the eBay ones seems to be true. Looking into the MOOG parts, may just order them and compare.

Corksport said the OEM links are good enough but I want the added security of a beefier part because I tend to beat this thing on what twisty roads I find. Both parts are the same price.
 

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I have the eBay ones, they keep working loose and popping no matter how tight they are. Shop says the bolt is a smaller diameter than OEM and holding the OEM links up to the eBay ones seems to be true. Looking into the MOOG parts, may just order them and compare.

Corksport said the OEM links are good enough but I want the added security of a beefier part because I tend to beat this thing on what twisty roads I find. Both parts are the same price.
They're usually fine if you have stock ride height. These endlinks are usually loaded in shear (unless you have a significantly lowered car and they are now at a different range of motion). You might want beefier ones if you have a sway bar that's significantly higher spring rate but I'm not a fan of ones that require grease fittings for maintenance.
 

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I have the eBay ones, they keep working loose and popping no matter how tight they are. Shop says the bolt is a smaller diameter than OEM and holding the OEM links up to the eBay ones seems to be true. Looking into the MOOG parts, may just order them and compare.

Corksport said the OEM links are good enough but I want the added security of a beefier part because I tend to beat this thing on what twisty roads I find. Both parts are the same price.
You sure you got the right parts? The ones I got are the same diameter and thread pitch as the OEM parts. Did yours come with a stepped spacer/washer? If so did you use it? You can see it in the picture below. I did not need to use it on mine as they fit right.



Sorry but OEM is not good enough if lowered and/or using a larger front or rear sway bar. I don't know why they would say that. I'm sure they will change their mind once they start selling a similar part.:smile2:
 

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@DMshadow yes don't use the washer. I made that mistake of using the washers and they kept coming loose and making noise. To be honest with you, I was not happy with ebay ones and they rust pretty quickly too (I live in the midwest).So I switched to Moogs and I am much happier. One thing with noises I discovered is that sometimes it is not the endlinks but the nuts holding the sway bar brackets the source of the problem if they are loose or not tightened properly.

FYI: I am lowered on eibach springs and I checked my sway bar...it is still horizontal even with moog's so no need for adjustable endlinks. If you are on corksport or anything lower your options seem to be the Ebay ones or the hardrace ones that are a little pricey. But you know what they say, you get what you pay for.

So try this:

1. Make sure you did not use the washers that came with the ebay endlinks.

2. Make sure the nuts holding the sway brackets and bushings are tight. As you know, they are hard to reach so it is easy to think they are tight while they actually not.

3. If you still get the noises, I would say try moogs or hardrace endlinks. I was almost at the point of buying hardrace when I realized the clunking wasn't because of the loose endlinks but because of a loose nut holding the sway bar bracket. After I tightened that noise was gone.

I want to emphasize that from my experience noises on newly installed sway bars on these 3rd gens are mostly due to an incorrect installation in one way or the other.
 

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@DMshadow yes don't use the washer. I made that mistake of using the washers and they kept coming loose and making noise. To be honest with you, I was not happy with ebay ones and they rust pretty quickly too (I live in the midwest).So I switched to Moogs and I am much happier. One thing with noises I discovered is that sometimes it is not the endlinks but the nuts holding the sway bar brackets the source of the problem if they are loose or not tightened properly.

FYI: I am lowered on eibach springs and I checked my sway bar...it is still horizontal even with moog's so no need for adjustable endlinks. If you are on corksport or anything lower your options seem to be the Ebay ones or the hardrace ones that are a little pricey. But you know what they say, you get what you pay for.

So try this:

1. Make sure you did not use the washers that came with the ebay endlinks.

2. Make sure the nuts holding the sway brackets and bushings are tight. As you know, they are hard to reach so it is easy to think they are tight while they actually not.

3. If you still get the noises, I would say try moogs or hardrace endlinks. I was almost at the point of buying hardrace when I realized the clunking wasn't because of the loose endlinks but because of a loose nut holding the sway bar bracket. After I tightened that noise was gone.

I want to emphasize that from my experience noises on newly installed sway bars on these 3rd gens are mostly due to an incorrect installation in one way or the other.
I got the ones in the link (eBay) and I'm on H&R's and Konis. All 4 washers are still in the box, a shop put them on and the link connections are tight it's the ones that go to the frame that I have an issue with. Moreso the left side but the right seems to have finally worked itself slightly loose after 3 months. Could just seem that way.

Both sides are doubled up on the nuts and the noises went away for a little while afterwards and are mainly on some slow turns (fast cornering is fine) and most inclines. They're not loose and making noise at random just a solid pop in described circumstances.

The bolts seem to be the same size putting them end to end so I'm not sure the issue I am having. Left endlink was spinning the bolt on turn before they doubled up and it still worked itself loose enough to make noise after a month.
 

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The things you describe sound exactly like what I was experiencing. I got rid of those eBay ones and replaced with Moogs. The problem seems to have gone away after I had made sure everything is tight and properly installed.I am yet to see if it will come back down the road. I don't want to say Moogs solved the noise problem...Mostly just making sure everything is installed properly is what I believe solved the issue. I know it can be frustrating. I also use ramps for adjusting and tightening the nuts. The best way to do it would be a lift like the one they use for balancing the car. Good luck!

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@DMshadow yes don't use the washer. I made that mistake of using the washers and they kept coming loose and making noise. To be honest with you, I was not happy with ebay ones and they rust pretty quickly too (I live in the midwest).So I switched to Moogs and I am much happier. One thing with noises I discovered is that sometimes it is not the endlinks but the nuts holding the sway bar brackets the source of the problem if they are loose or not tightened properly.
Yes, anything not painted will rust, and faster when exposed to winter driving. Mine have been on since last summer and have one New England winter on them. They are a bit dirty but not rusting yet. Cleaning helps a lot there.
Again, the sway bar angle has to be right or the improperly applied forces can damage the bracket and loosen the bolts. Proper bar installation and 25 ft/lbs on the brackets to keep them tight works wonders. :smile2:


The bolts seem to be the same size putting them end to end so I'm not sure the issue I am having. Left endlink was spinning the bolt on turn before they doubled up and it still worked itself loose enough to make noise after a month.
Sounds to me like the gorilla at the shop broke them. They are supposed to be torqued to no more than 35 ft/lbs. If the guy cranked down on them he might have separated something inside the joint. If the nut won't tighten that sounds like its broken. The stud should not turn easily if at all. If the guy put a second nut on the stud to prevent the first from coming off there is a problem.
 

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@arathol Enlighten me, how do you fit a torque wrench in that tight space? I even have a fairly small digital torque adapter but still cannot fit it in there. Yes but those rusted within days

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The bolts seem to be the same size putting them end to end so I'm not sure the issue I am having. Left endlink was spinning the bolt on turn before they doubled up and it still worked itself loose enough to make noise after a month.
There is another possibility however silly it sounds. The guy who did the install just might not have been doing it right. The inner part of the stud has flats. You need the right wrench to fit in there to keep the stud in place while you tighten the nut........:bash::bash::bash::bash:
 

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@arathol Enlighten me, how do you fit a torque wrench in that tight space? I even have a fairly small digital torque adapter but still cannot fit it in there. Yes but those rusted within days

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Snap On QJFR275D 3/8 drive torque wrench, 5-75 ft/lb range with pivoting head. No problem.:smile2:
 
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