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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there,

I will be replacing the T-Stat for my car pretty soon, as it is having minor leaks, and slowly sipping away at my coolant.

Also, I cant seem to find the right part # for the serpentine belt for my car. Anyone able to chime in?

Anyone have experience with aftermarket? or would it be advisable to go OEM?

Thanks for the help!
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
Hi there,

I will be replacing the T-Stat for my car pretty soon, as it is having minor leaks, and slowly sipping away at my coolant.

Also, I cant seem to find the right part # for the serpentine belt for my car. Anyone able to chime in?

Anyone have experience with aftermarket? or would it be advisable to go OEM?

Thanks for the help!
Dayco and Gates belts are both great aftermarket belts, never had a problem with either of those brands. Autozone shows the Dayco number: 5060900 belt works for the 2.5L motor I have a 2011 same motor so I used my info to get that number. here is the belt diagram and part numbers for the belt system from zoomzoomnationparts.com (cj Wilson mazda):BELTS & PULLEYS. COOLING.. Fits: 2011 Mazda 3 2.5L Duratec A/T | CJ Wilson Mazda Online Parts

51280 is the thermostat part number autozone shows for our 2.5l its a thermostat built into the upper housing on these cars and gasket is built in, no need for rtv silicone or other sealant on this application just un bolt the old and bolt down the new, I did mine on my 08 with the 2.3 and the intake manifold partially blocks the upper right bolt (when facing the car from the hood) so you want a u joint on your ratchet to get at that bolt if the 2.5 is partially blocked too (which I would assume it is since they are basically the same motor, have not had to do the 2011's one yet) mazda did do something good with the 2.5 over the 2.3 in that the 2.3 has a "stretch belt" separate from the other serpentine belt for the a/c compressor all it ran to was crank pulley to a/c compressor with no adjustments, had to be cut off to change and you either had to have a "stretch belt" tool or un bolt the a/c compressor partially to allow it to come towards the crank pulley slide the belt around bot pulleys and go around the belt to bolt the compressor back down the 2.5 according to the diagram has only the one belt which makes changing much simpler
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
Thank you for putting this together!!
not a problem, just make sure you check your VIN number for your engine VIN code (engine code is 8th digit from the left) if it is a 5 everything above is 100% what you need if it is a 6 you may need different belts so check before you buy, zoomzoomnationparts does not show 2 different belt routings for different vin codes but rock auto and some others show vin code 6 as needing 2 different belts so just give it a quick check on your vin and maybe look at your belt and see if you see a second belt in there. I would believe the mazda diagrams and part numbers over aftermarket ones and seeing that none of the mazda diagrams denot there being 2 belts on the 2.5l in the 3 I would think they would all have just the one belt.

Most do just show the 90 and 9/16" belt as the only belt for both the vin 5 and vin 6 engines orielly's, autozone, the dealers all show just the one belt for both vin codes but rock auto.com and advanced auto parts show the vin 6 as having 2 different belts, which is odd because I would not think mazda would put 2 different belt routings on the same engine in the same car because that would raise manufacturing and design costs for no good reason. I think the vin 6 engine is the California emissions engine though so the vin 5 should be much more common and more then likely the one you have, as that is my vin code, and I have federal emissions. Also advanced and rock auto may have incorrect information and have the 04-09 info on there listings for 10-13 considering more of them state the other way, and the part numbers for the 2 belt setup are the same as the older 2 belt setup, makes me think they have incorrect info for for vin 6. the older cars from 04-09 had 2 belts one for the water pump, alternator, and crank pulley and the other for the a/c and crank pulley but my 2011 has just the one that I can see, in the 04-09s it was easy to tell it had 2 belts as you could not see the bottom part of the main one in the back of the engine bay looking from the top as the 2nd belt partially obscured your view. this is not the case in my 2011.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
not a problem, just make sure you check your VIN number for your engine VIN code (engine code is 8th digit from the left) if it is a 5 everything above is 100% what you need if it is a 6 you may need different belts so check before you buy, zoomzoomnationparts does not show 2 different belt routings for different vin codes but rock auto and some others show vin code 6 as needing 2 different belts so just give it a quick check on your vin and maybe look at your belt and see if you see a second belt in there. I would believe the mazda diagrams and part numbers over aftermarket ones and seeing that none of the mazda diagrams denot there being 2 belts on the 2.5l in the 3 I would think they would all have just the one belt.

Most do just show the 90 and 9/16" belt as the only belt for both the vin 5 and vin 6 engines orielly's, autozone, the dealers all show just the one belt for both vin codes but rock auto.com and advanced auto parts show the vin 6 as having 2 different belts, which is odd because I would not think mazda would put 2 different belt routings on the same engine in the same car because that would raise manufacturing and design costs for no good reason. I think the vin 6 engine is the California emissions engine though so the vin 5 should be much more common and more then likely the one you have, as that is my vin code, and I have federal emissions. Also advanced and rock auto may have incorrect information and have the 04-09 info on there listings for 10-13 considering more of them state the other way, and the part numbers for the 2 belt setup are the same as the older 2 belt setup, makes me think they have incorrect info for for vin 6. the older cars from 04-09 had 2 belts one for the water pump, alternator, and crank pulley and the other for the a/c and crank pulley but my 2011 has just the one that I can see, in the 04-09s it was easy to tell it had 2 belts as you could not see the bottom part of the main one in the back of the engine bay looking from the top as the 2nd belt partially obscured your view. this is not the case in my 2011.
Yea the 8th digit from the left in my VIN is a 5. (Doesn't even include a '6' digit).

Thanks again!
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
Yea the 8th digit from the left in my VIN is a 5. (Doesn't even include a '6' digit).

Thanks again!
Not a problem, the 5 is the more common engine I googled it and sure enough vin 6 is California/new york emissions but does not actually use different belts just has different exhaust and ignition systems for their crappy emissions regulations. here is more info on your vin so you can decode its meaning, those seemingly random numbers and letters are not that random(well except the end, but its sequential as the cars come off the line usually) https://www.1aauto.com/content/articles/vin-number-decoding the one difference on some cars is Toyota uses the 5th digit as the engine code not 8th I think they just swap engine and series digits but not 100% on that most car makers this decoder works like a charm as most follow the exact same convention.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not a problem, the 5 is the more common engine I googled it and sure enough vin 6 is California/new york emissions but does not actually use different belts just has different exhaust and ignition systems for their crappy emissions regulations. here is more info on your vin so you can decode its meaning, those seemingly random numbers and letters are not that random(well except the end, but its sequential as the cars come off the line usually) https://www.1aauto.com/content/articles/vin-number-decoding the one difference on some cars is Toyota uses the 5th digit as the engine code not 8th I think they just swap engine and series digits but not 100% on that most car makers this decoder works like a charm as most follow the exact same convention.
Im in Canada so Autozone isnt an option for me. Zoomzoomparts doesn't ship internationally as well. So my best bet right now is Rock Auto online, or visit Parts Source.

For Rock Auto, I am seeing, Dayco - 5060900 @ 27$ and Gates - K060900 @ 29$.

As far as the T-Stat, I've no idea which it'd be as there are mutiple ones on the website. Otherwise, I'd have to check out a local store. Any brand preference on this one?
 

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Demon Spawn
Joined
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758 Posts
Im in Canada so Autozone isnt an option for me. Zoomzoomparts doesn't ship internationally as well. So my best bet right now is Rock Auto online, or visit Parts Source.

For Rock Auto, I am seeing, Dayco - 5060900 @ 27$ and Gates - K060900 @ 29$.

As far as the T-Stat, I've no idea which it'd be as there are mutiple ones on the website. Otherwise, I'd have to check out a local store. Any brand preference on this one?
whichever you can get cheaper gates or dayco will do you fine, most aftermarket thermostats are made by one company, stant, and are decent. rockauto would be a good bet as they back their parts like autozone does. duralast, whatever orielly's brand autozone, napa all have stant/motorad branded ones even though their name is over it. here is a good one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-143-0884-Thermostat/dp/B00BUHMH12/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1490727059&vehicle=2011-80-2435-1--18-6-5-9140-2010-1-1-2951--1-0&sr=1-6&ymm=2011:mazda:3&keywords=thermostat
 

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Discussion Starter #9
whichever you can get cheaper gates or dayco will do you fine, most aftermarket thermostats are made by one company, stant, and are decent. rockauto would be a good bet as they back their parts like autozone does. duralast, whatever orielly's brand autozone, napa all have stant/motorad branded ones even though their name is over it. here is a good one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-143-0884-Thermostat/dp/B00BUHMH12/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1490727059&vehicle=2011-80-2435-1--18-6-5-9140-2010-1-1-2951--1-0&sr=1-6&ymm=2011:mazda:3&keywords=thermostat
I'll be grabbing Beck/Arnley 1430884, and Gates K060900 from rock auto.

Are these correct?

Thank you so much for the help!
 

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Demon Spawn
Joined
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758 Posts
I'll be grabbing Beck/Arnley 1430884, and Gates K060900 from rock auto.

Are these correct?

Thank you so much for the help!
You got it, those are the right ones. Make sure you use fresh coolant when you do the thermostat I don't know what mazda uses in Canada but here they use a special coolant called fl22, it says any universal will work as long as it does not have silicates (from the early 90s back) but I would advise going to the dealer and getting some from them, it costs a bit more but will be correct and pre mixed, so you will just need to pour it in. plus the fl22 is supposed to last a lot longer then regular coolant, all manufacturers use that newer type now they just all call it something different and use slightly different mixes and color dyes.

check your hoses while your in there as well, look for bulges or extra soft/hard spots and anywhere that looks weak or dry rotted (brown like tires get when they get old) any that appear this way should be replaced. again the dealer is the best place for these due to the weird configuration on them the dealer has them all and correctly shaped and cut whereas some aftermarket ones wont be correctly shaped and the lower one going to the thermostat has a t/y shaped split off on it with 3 hoses and you will want a new one of those when you replace that hose because its just reinforced plastic and hot coolant eventually will mess it up, the dealer is the only place to get them and around here only comes with the hoses on it.

your owners manual should have a coolant system "burping" procedure that you should follow after changing the thermostat to allow any air trapped to escape but its basically take the coolant cap off start the car and let it warm up then hold the engine at 2500 rpm for awhile and let it return to idle and repeat until no more air bubbles come up then fill with coolant. you still want to check that its full again for the next few trips because it may suck some out of the tank and need more. if you end up needing to remove the intake manifold to get at the last thermostat bolt (should not need to with a wobble or u joint on your extensions) you may as well replace the pcv valve as well because its right under the intake manifold and the intake manifold has to come off to replace the pcv valve (kinda stupid, but again im not mazdas engineer, at least they didn't pull a Chrysler and put the battery where you have to take a tire, fender liner and a fluid tank off every time to change it)

you may want to do a quick seafoam treatment as well which is fun and really easy to do, plus it helps clean the inside of the engine out and improves rough idle and gas mileage here is my how to (its off my old 08 3 with the 2.3L) but still works the same on the newer ones, only difference is the picture where im pointing to a round red clip ours is square and blue and the blue part just slides up, you slide the hose off and connect your seafoam suck hose to suck down the seafoam from the can: http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2004-2009-mazda-3-performance-mods/102265-how-seafoam-your-mazda-3-2-3l-motor.html

if you do this use about 1/3 to 2/3 the can of seafoam this way a little tiny bit in the oil helps clean areas the oil touches and the rest in the gas. do it after the car is warmed up, don't let the hose sit in the seafoam can, as it needs to suck air as well as seafoam to stay running (because your basically causing a temporary vacuum leak, don't worry it helps doesn't hurt, I do it every oil change on every car I have. then let it sit for an hour or so and go drive. it will be hard to start as it tries to compress the seafoam trapped in there and cant suck much air, this will make a huge cloud of white smoke so be ready. then just drive a little hard until you see no more smoke for a little bit and your good to go and have a cleaner internal engine and egr/pcv system

also how many kilometers/miles are on your car? spark plug replacement is due at 75,000 miles in the usa market, check your owners manual for the km reading you should change them at. if close might want to go ahead and do this as well and use ngk laser iridium as they are the only ones set at the correct gap for our cars (and also the oem plug anyways, we have an od gap of .052 in the usa measuring system, other plugs that "fit" have smaller gaps and this decreases power, fuel economy and plug life in these engines)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You got it, those are the right ones. Make sure you use fresh coolant when you do the thermostat I don't know what mazda uses in Canada but here they use a special coolant called fl22, it says any universal will work as long as it does not have silicates (from the early 90s back) but I would advise going to the dealer and getting some from them, it costs a bit more but will be correct and pre mixed, so you will just need to pour it in. plus the fl22 is supposed to last a lot longer then regular coolant, all manufacturers use that newer type now they just all call it something different and use slightly different mixes and color dyes.

check your hoses while your in there as well, look for bulges or extra soft/hard spots and anywhere that looks weak or dry rotted (brown like tires get when they get old) any that appear this way should be replaced. again the dealer is the best place for these due to the weird configuration on them the dealer has them all and correctly shaped and cut whereas some aftermarket ones wont be correctly shaped and the lower one going to the thermostat has a t/y shaped split off on it with 3 hoses and you will want a new one of those when you replace that hose because its just reinforced plastic and hot coolant eventually will mess it up, the dealer is the only place to get them and around here only comes with the hoses on it.

your owners manual should have a coolant system "burping" procedure that you should follow after changing the thermostat to allow any air trapped to escape but its basically take the coolant cap off start the car and let it warm up then hold the engine at 2500 rpm for awhile and let it return to idle and repeat until no more air bubbles come up then fill with coolant. you still want to check that its full again for the next few trips because it may suck some out of the tank and need more. if you end up needing to remove the intake manifold to get at the last thermostat bolt (should not need to with a wobble or u joint on your extensions) you may as well replace the pcv valve as well because its right under the intake manifold and the intake manifold has to come off to replace the pcv valve (kinda stupid, but again im not mazdas engineer, at least they didn't pull a Chrysler and put the battery where you have to take a tire, fender liner and a fluid tank off every time to change it)

you may want to do a quick seafoam treatment as well which is fun and really easy to do, plus it helps clean the inside of the engine out and improves rough idle and gas mileage here is my how to (its off my old 08 3 with the 2.3L) but still works the same on the newer ones, only difference is the picture where im pointing to a round red clip ours is square and blue and the blue part just slides up, you slide the hose off and connect your seafoam suck hose to suck down the seafoam from the can: http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2004-2009-mazda-3-performance-mods/102265-how-seafoam-your-mazda-3-2-3l-motor.html

if you do this use about 1/3 to 2/3 the can of seafoam this way a little tiny bit in the oil helps clean areas the oil touches and the rest in the gas. do it after the car is warmed up, don't let the hose sit in the seafoam can, as it needs to suck air as well as seafoam to stay running (because your basically causing a temporary vacuum leak, don't worry it helps doesn't hurt, I do it every oil change on every car I have. then let it sit for an hour or so and go drive. it will be hard to start as it tries to compress the seafoam trapped in there and cant suck much air, this will make a huge cloud of white smoke so be ready. then just drive a little hard until you see no more smoke for a little bit and your good to go and have a cleaner internal engine and egr/pcv system

also how many kilometers/miles are on your car? spark plug replacement is due at 75,000 miles in the usa market, check your owners manual for the km reading you should change them at. if close might want to go ahead and do this as well and use ngk laser iridium as they are the only ones set at the correct gap for our cars (and also the oem plug anyways, we have an od gap of .052 in the usa measuring system, other plugs that "fit" have smaller gaps and this decreases power, fuel economy and plug life in these engines)
Awesome! I'll have to get my hands on some tools before I carry on with DIY. Also, the hoses as you've mentioned and see if they can use replacing.

I'll keep the seafoam in mind. Sounds like an easy job for a little clean up for the engine. Thanks for this!

My car is at 109k km right now, and I changed my spark plugs using OEM at 100k. So I'm okay there.

Thanks again for your time writing up the instructions! I appreciate it!
 

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Demon Spawn
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Awesome! I'll have to get my hands on some tools before I carry on with DIY. Also, the hoses as you've mentioned and see if they can use replacing.

I'll keep the seafoam in mind. Sounds like an easy job for a little clean up for the engine. Thanks for this!

My car is at 109k km right now, and I changed my spark plugs using OEM at 100k. So I'm okay there.

Thanks again for your time writing up the instructions! I appreciate it!
not a problem glad to help
 
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