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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone else had any clunking in the front after installing these? Where can i start trying to figure out how to fix this? Or is this just normal for coilovers? Also, how stiff do you all have your dampening at ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Clunking is often related to either the top hats being loose (25ftlbs), or the endlinks. More often than not however it's endlinks. (45ftlbs)

Dampers with the stock springs should be anywhere from 8-12 from soft for a "correct" ride.
hmm ive checked that the tophats are tight and the endlinks are as well. ive adjusted the preload for 4mm. is there anything else that i should consider?
 

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Sounds like endlinks. The end of the link is a joint that has a certain range of movement. When it is the incorrect length for the ride height, the angle can be acute enough that it cant rotate as designed. So what happens is when enough force is put on it it "pops" to whatever position it couldnt freely move to and you hear a thud. Its like gunning your engine to run over a chock; eventually you abruptly dart over it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If it is the endlink, then you need adjustable endlinks or a higher ride height before they eventually break.
ok awesome. thank you! two questions, possibly stupid, but - 1) are end links car specific or length specific? meaning do they make them adjustable for the 2014s? 2) assuming they do, how do you know how to properly set the length of them?
 

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ok awesome. thank you! two questions, possibly stupid, but - 1) are end links car specific or length specific? meaning do they make them adjustable for the 2014s? 2) assuming they do, how do you know how to properly set the length of them?
really, it's just a case of getting the correct bolt size, and is the shaft the right size for your needs. Even if there is one specifically for your car it may not have the adjustability for your application. Racing beep offers some fronts. Sway Bar End Links - Adjustable Front for 2014-15 Mazda 3 - Racing Beat
Autoexe offers front and rears and I just noticed that it's the same endlink (part #) used on the cx-5; the same one that I have. I ended up using a custom cut shaft length because my car wasn't low enough to utilize the autoexe shaft on full stiff with my sway bar. Unless you are using say all autoexe parts, it's hard ot say what will work 100% without any modification. Really, as long as you have the end part (the joints) you can have a shaft cut and tapped for whatever length you need if it doesn't fit.
AutoExe:English A good start would be to try to match the oem height angle (which is mostly vertical on our style of endlink). Mine sit at about 20deg or less, could have been less of a angle had I cut about 3 mm off the shaft, but I don't get clunking or popping/broken endlinks as a result anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks guys! im going to go ahead and order that and see if that helps. Its funny, because when reconnecting the front endlinks, there was no issue and was easy to get in... it was the back that was difficult to do. In that case, i dont really remember there being much stress on the front endlinks. If this doesnt fix it, is there anything else that you could think it would be?
 

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Yea, I had no issues with the fronts it's mainly the back.
It's possible then that his are knocking into the firewall between the suspension and the engine.

But don't worry, that will fix itself over time :p

(more often than not though, when at least traveling in a straight line over uneven ground yes, it's just the bolt shifting around by not being tightened correctly/enough by the nut on the endlink)
 

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BC coils compensate for the endlink length already so while it's not a BAD idea to upgrade the links, I can't imagine the link itself is the root cause of the problem. Typically nobody tightens them down hard enough the first time because the stud strips or moves or something silly.
 

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BC coils compensate for the endlink length already so while it's not a BAD idea to upgrade the links, I can't imagine the link itself is the root cause of the problem. Typically nobody tightens them down hard enough the first time because the stud strips or moves or something silly.
What do you mean by they compensate? The ideal length of you endlink would depend on whatever ride height you set. There would be a point where it goes from "it works" (preloaded) to now it's binding, at a low or a high setting.
@nicholaschristian are you running any other suspension mods?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What do you mean by they compensate? The ideal length of you endlink would depend on whatever ride height you set. There would be a point where it goes from "it works" (preloaded) to now it's binding, at a low or a high setting.

@nicholaschristian are you running any other suspension mods?
No i am not. Just the BC BR's. I saw that other people were saying that the top nut that connects the strut [the one under the dampening knob] sometimes come loose. Im not sure if thats a possibility here. I also readjusted the preload of the springs to 4mm.
 

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Yeah, the BCs are certainly off their mark for endlink length.

I ran it fine for several years and had no complaints or issues, but it absolutely loads the FSB up a fair amount.
For most people it really isn't a huge deal. But it is there, and technically is wrong, so fixing it isn't to big of a deal, especially if you can DIY some endlinks for $20.
 

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Yeah, the BCs are certainly off their mark for endlink length.

I ran it fine for several years and had no complaints or issues, but it absolutely loads the FSB up a fair amount.
For most people it really isn't a huge deal. But it is there, and technically is wrong, so fixing it isn't to big of a deal, especially if you can DIY some endlinks for $20.
I think they changed the design sometime between when you bought yours and when I bought mine -- the FSB is sitting pretty much stock angle on stock endlinks, despite lowering the car 2". I tried putting 1" longer links in there at first and the FSB hit the LCA before the stud went in. Pictures would solve this confusion right quick though.

Knocking due to loose pillow ball definitely happens as well, but be careful tightening that as you put a 5mm allen into a slightly too large hole... really easy to strip.
 

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AFAIK they didn't, and never have. Unless it's an extremely recent thing. I did a couple BC installs last year and they were all the same.

Ride height doesn't have much affect on the fact that the BC positions are just too low; that's an engineering/design fault that if it still is around, has been around for much too long.
 
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