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Drive side CV is clicking/popping... I can't find any aftermarket axle shafts out there... does anyone know if they exist, or is Mazda the only one making shafts for this car?

- In addition to the shaft, will I need anything else during the swap? New nut, seals, etc?

- When I pull the shaft out, will the transmission fluid level be high enough up to where it will leak when the shaft is out?

Thank you!
 

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Drive side CV is clicking/popping... I can't find any aftermarket axle shafts out there... does anyone know if they exist, or is Mazda the only one making shafts for this car?

- In addition to the shaft, will I need anything else during the swap? New nut, seals, etc?

- When I pull the shaft out, will the transmission fluid level be high enough up to where it will leak when the shaft is out?

Thank you!
The Mazda OEM ones are completely assembled (special order) $600.00 or so. Nothing should leak out.
 

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- When I pull the shaft out, will the transmission fluid level be high enough up to where it will leak when the shaft is out?
If you're driving automatic the trans fluid will slowly leak out. You can get a plug tool to stop this while you position the new shaft in place. If you're driving manual, it's going to pour out and there's not a lot you can do about it other than put new oil in when you're done. Good time to put some nice synthetic in it such as redline.

No parts need to be replaced unless worn. It's a good idea to have a spare oil seal on hand (transmission side) in case it's worn or gets damaged when you pull the shaft out. Easy to replace and a cheap part, but if you don't have one big hassle. Put a thin coat of grease on the outer edge when you drive it in and also a thin coat on the inner hole. That will prevent it from running dry when you drive it for the first time.

Easy job, just have to be well prepared. The castle nut will have a fairly high torque spec on it. You'll probably need an impact gun to get it off. Tightening it down can be fun. I've jammed the brakes on with a tool of some sort in the past to do it. Using the correct torque values and a torque wrench is essential.
 

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Seems to me that (split) seal protector sleeve can be fit over the inboard drive splines of halfshaft as it passes the seal in inserting half shaft... then it is pulled out. Splines can be sharp... damaging seal on entry. For that manner - on removal this can happen... which is why seal replacement may be prudent. Axial location/position of seal in its bore may be important... so check that out too.
 

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You may need a torque multiplier...? A HD mechanic's / millwright's tool?
I have never needed one, but I don't see why not if you feel the need. Just my trusty electric impact gun and torque wrench.

Also have not needed any special tool to protect the seals. Just take care when popping the shaft out. I think I had to replace one seal in all the times I've pulled the shafts on my old car. Probably did it half a dozen times at least. The clutch bearings we're shit. But again, if you feel the need why not. We all do things a little differently.
 

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Put a tray under the transmission/trans axle. Just in case..
CK
 

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Might just be the first to need one. But I'd drain the fluid completely, and replace it with the exact amount mazda says it takes. As there is no reliable method of measuring how much is in it than how much you put in it.
 

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Might just be the first to need one. But I'd drain the fluid completely, and replace it with the exact amount mazda says it takes. As there is no reliable method of measuring how much is in it than how much you put in it.
Except for that little thing called the dipstick.

If it's manual, you fill until the oil comes back out.

We don't need pinpoint accuracy here.
 
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