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I have mentioned that for me I would consider it a mistake to remove the OEM engine coolant-to-ATF cooler in place of an aerial style ATF cooler 'cuz it removes the early heat-up function that the OEM style cooler provides. BUT, I would add the aerial style cooler for three seasons of the year and I would add ball valves to make for easy switching-in and switching-out action...

Just adding this: I would also (in addition to the addition of the aux. air-to-liquid cooler in front of the rad) advocate exercising control over one or both of the radiator / A/C condensor fans based on monitoring the ATF temp (of course, also allowing engine temp control over same... and A/C system control over same) and then also actively controlling the fan to achieve no more than 185F ATF temp, if possible.
 

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Engine Oil temperature with the sensor in the pan between 205-230F and the coolant runs 170-214F with IAT at about 0 to 30F degrees above ambient temperatures , 10-15% throttle plate position and steady highway driving 65-70 mph. There are lots of things the ultimately effects all the temperatures but these seem to be the range high and low after the engine and transmission reaches operating temperature for a drive cycle. I personally do not like to have the automatic transmission running fluid temperature more then 200F and ultimately at about 180-190F.
 

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I don't believe in lifetime fluids so I want to change the transmission fluid and filter (2016 3 i Sport Sedan) Should I do this a couple of times to get all of the old fluid out,or do a drain and fill only first and then do the filter and fluid the second time? Thanks
gen3 mazda3's have lifetime tranny fluid?
cool!

how about coolant?
 
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