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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to upgrade the audio components in my 2015 Mazda 3 with infotainment and 6 speaker audio system.

My options are as follows:

Option 1:
Replace dash tweeter to a 3.5" coax
Replace front door speaker to a JBL component system and add tweeter to top of door.
Replace the rear door speaker with a high Qts 6.5" sub-woofer installed free air with LPF at 120Hz or less.

This is boring, simple, but will sound fine IMO and will take a day total to get everything done.

Option 2:
Replace front door speakers with an 8" or 10" woofer, crossed over at 500Hz or less. (Would have to build some kind of enclosure and/or spacer)
Replace dash tweeters with a 3" full range speakers band-passed from about 500Hz-5kHz
Add a tweeter to the top of the door.
Replace the rear door speaker with a high Qts 6.5" sub-woofer installed free air with LPF at 120Hz or less.

This would probably sound superior to option 1, but I would need to construct crossovers which is a whole other story and gets very complicated very fast, considering I'm going off factory amps and have no knowledge of its specs. The safest thing is either a simple first order which will sound bad, or a second order which will be simple, but might not sound great. A third order crossover would sound the best, but is extremely involved to get right and the inductors are not easy to find, and I don't want to wind them myself.

I have pre-selected some components, and would just generally like to get others opinions.

Which option would you choose, and why?

If option two, which components would you select, and why?
 

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simplest upgrade you can do: a mazda 3 simple speaker replacement using a focal flax for front stage
https://www.facebook.com/jccaraudioph/photos/ms.c.eJwzNDA0NTK1MLI0NrKwMDM3N9MzhIsYGxuii5hZootYmhqiipgYgtUAAC5BEiQ~-.bps.a.10152582932721776.1073742012.211504736775/10152582933316776/?type=1&permPage=1

Free air subs on the rear door powered by factory hu amp? Not a good idea.

For simplicity's sake, just get a self powered sub, infinity basslink (if they still produce this), blaupunk has also, are the less expensive ones, focal dsa 500 rt are the more expensive ones, but that gives you dsp as well and 65w powering the front.

Of course nothing beats a property designed box and sub plus external amp, imho.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's the thing, I have some low frequency components laying around. Alpine Type R 12, JL 10, MTX thunder 12, Eclipse amps, and a TMA amp. The problem is of the six amps I have, the lowest current draw is 80 amps, which is almost equivalent to the puny factory alternator. I don't want to buy a new amp, but I don't want to upgrade the electrical system either, which would run at least $600 done properly. A 6.5" free air rated at under 100 watts will get down to 60Hz and possibly less than that, which is fine. It wont be heard from even a 1/4 mile away, but from 6 feet away it will be enough to supplement the front stage.

I also have a custom built Hifonics Brutus 1606D that draws 160A at full load, which is more than an entire household, but my beat the block days are over.
 

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So what is your goal? And budget?

Those focal flax are just $300 and so sensitive that it runs easily and sound good from any factory hu power. Yes ive seen and heard a lot of these installed powered only by hu power, from stock toyotas, hyundais, bmw, lexus, etc.

Self powered subs won't even be heard a few feet away, while your windows are closed. These subs are not for spl, as they do not play really low freq hz, 30 hz and below. Most of them 50 and above.

These self powered subs are realistically comparable to a weak sealed real 8 incher sub. I suggested it over your free air subs on the doors, since for me all your troubles and rattles will simply be not worth the output it will produce.

These self powered subs simply need a direct power cable from the battery, along with a fuse and ground wire its not expensive at all and no need for additonal wires. They normally accept hi level signal also and has built in low pass filter and phase to blend it in your front stage.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the replies.

Budget wise I'd love to keep it under $180, realistically $260 after shipping and all. I can get any cap or resistor I need for almost free, and if I have to I will make the inductors if I can't find one already produced. I have dozens of circuit boards and supplies for the crossovers. I have some 5/8 MDF I can double stack and cut rings with. My enclosures for the sub and woofer would have to be cylindrical, possibly with an open back or partially open back.

Goal wise, not really concerned about obtaining max SPL, that's easier than SQ in my opinion. My past systems cranked out thousands of watts, and still sounded good cause I didn't use crap, but someone else designed those components to do just that, sound good even with a ton of power. In the past, all I did was install someone else's components. Now I want to learn how to make a particular speaker sound excellent given its characteristics. If I can do it with inexpensive components, then in the future I can do it again with better (expensive) components. My ultimate goal is getting the best sound quality from the the factory unit. Wiring amps to components is easy, we've all collectively done it a million times. Using only 20WRMS/channel to recreate the entire sound stage accurately and with power to spare would be good experience. Every last detail has to be correctly calculated to get it right. Crossovers, enclosures, sound damping, speaker selection, materials, etc. I'm an EE major, and audio is my passion. I've heard 2W vacuum tube amps fill a room with rich, warm sound with plenty of low end response. It is possible.
 
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