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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I'm in the middle of an OVTUNE and I've pulled some logs.

Right now I'm just blindly following instructions but I'm curious to see how my car is performing.

Anyway my question is sort of simple I think. What are the key logged items that would be worth looking at for a non-tuner like me? For example knock, timing, a/f, etc.

What I'd like to be able to do is use the logs to view some sort of easy to understand graph let let's me know when things are getting to close to max or min.

Guess I'd like to be able to view the health of my engine with the complex software on my own.

I've seen pics of graphs with green, yellow, and red zones to show good/bad levels.....seems right up my 101 for dummies alley :)
 

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For something simple, log RPM. The rate of change, is acceleration. So take the derivative (running difference), plot that vs RPM. Compare before and after, tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That makes sense..the faster it revs...it means I'm accelerating faster.

One setting I'm very interested in it how to measure if my engine is starving for air at any point. Anyone know what setting I would look at?
 

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So I'm in the middle of an OVTUNE and I've pulled some logs.

Right now I'm just blindly following instructions but I'm curious to see how my car is performing.

Anyway my question is sort of simple I think. What are the key logged items that would be worth looking at for a non-tuner like me? For example knock, timing, a/f, etc.

What I'd like to be able to do is use the logs to view some sort of easy to understand graph let let's me know when things are getting to close to max or min.

Guess I'd like to be able to view the health of my engine with the complex software on my own.

I've seen pics of graphs with green, yellow, and red zones to show good/bad levels.....seems right up my 101 for dummies alley :)
The only log parameter that might give you some hint as to whether you are at the max is knock retard. You could follow ignition timing, but since you don't know the potential of your engines ignition timing based on the fuel and supporting mods you are running, knowing those or even other incrementing values won't tell you whether your near or at the maximum.

Knock retard actually happens often, even on the stock map. The ECU will often record false knocks from noises it picks up during normal driving that are not actual knock (its just a sound recorder). The only important knock to worry about is WOT high load knock. You often get initial tip-in knock when you mash the pedal- this is not something to be concerned with. What I mean is large amounts of knock at high rpm when the pedal is fully down. Generally, 1-2 degrees of knock retard is not too bad, and again even occurs on the stock map at WOT if you put in poor quality fuel or the intake temps are very high. The ECU detects the knock, pulls back timing depending on the degree of knock, and learns to use less timing in future runs. That is how it can adapt to poor quality fuel... So a knock retard of -2 during the run is the ECU pulling back 2 degrees of timing at that rpm/engine load. In contrast, the ECU actually senses for better fuel quality constantly, so positive knock retard is actually it trying to increase timing while testing the fuel quality (this is a good thing as its learning to make more power on higher octane fuel). Its learning ability to advance timing is quite small though, so don't expect to gain much by running 91 on the stock tune... Generally, if a tuner sees knock, they pull back timing a bit, and the tune is near the end. However, this is not always the case, as they can use other strategies (ig. DI spray, AFR, VVT calibration, etc.) to add more ignition timing, thereby allowing more timing and power to be made. For example, by calibrating VVT timing, the engine will knock less, thereby permitting more timing. Ignition timing isn't the only measure of power on the skyactiv, but it is one of the major factors. Overall, if your car is knocking, don't go complaining to the tuner if the tune is not yet finished, as they are likely still dialing in the proper calibration.

If you want to keep track of how much power your car is making throughout the tune, get a real dyno or use virtual dynos. In MazdaEdit logger, you just highlight the WOT area you made (see acceleration pedal position data), then go to the dyno tab and enter all the correct settings for your car to adjust the dyno curve. However, if you do the runs under very different temperatures, wind conditions, not the same stretch of road, hills, gears, etc. you can have variations in the power curves which are attributable to these confounding factors rather than the changes in engine power achieved. I wrote many threads on this prior. Do some searches, and you will see what parameters to enter in the logger dyno, and how to do proper logs. Even the runs must be the made the same way. With a manual you would want to go WOT at around 1500-2000 rpm to redline in 3rd gear on the exact same stretch of flat road. Automatic start has to be closer to 3000 rpm in manual mode to avoid the downshifting of the engine (you need to test this prior). Always use sport mode if you have it. 2nd gear is also quite inaccurate for virtual dynos, as it produces great variation in the power produced between runs...
 

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In addition to the Vdyno graph, mass air flow (g/s) and engine load are also other tools to gauge power being made. They are highly influenced by weather conditions between runs though. For example, my car makes well over 1.0 engine load in the high rpm areas near 0 oC, but it will barely hit 1.0 at over 35oC. Temperature and hills skew the Vdyno curve the most.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Some good stuff! So my first pull logs (at that point I had only done a base flash so not totally stock but not sure if much changed) ....

My Ignition timing ranged from -0.5 to 13.00

Knock from -1.52 to 0.07

And my engine load only got as high as 0.96

Also noticed my MAF got up to 144-148 g/'s

Not sure what all that means or how it compares to others, but I'll be curious to see what they end up as after the tune.
 

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Some good stuff! So my first pull logs (at that point I had only done a base flash so not totally stock but not sure if much changed) ....

My Ignition timing ranged from -0.5 to 13.00

Knock from -1.52 to 0.07

And my engine load only got as high as 0.96

Also noticed my MAF got up to 144-148 g/'s

Not sure what all that means or how it compares to others, but I'll be curious to see what they end up as after the tune.
How many tune files have you got so far? The MAF is quite good for a 2.0?, as the stock 2.5L registers just under150 g/s near the max. Engine load depends on temperature largely. Knock is what I would expect at this point. You could make some good quality WOT logs attempting to avoid the confounding factors I mentioned above. Then make some vdynos and compare % hp and tq gains from stock. You can even overlay vdyno graphs in Mazdaedit when making comparisons.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Couple clarification points...

1...I've only flashed 2x and pulled 1 log in between (so on 2nd flash)

2....I have the 2.5 so sounds like my max is 150? I'm running stock airbox.

3...the low knock was when I first got on the throttle at the bottom end like around 1,800 rpm. So really my pull I believe had very litthe knock so I'm hoping it means a have quite a bit more in reserve to tune in
 

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Some good stuff! So my first pull logs (at that point I had only done a base flash so not totally stock but not sure if much changed) ....

My Ignition timing ranged from -0.5 to 13.00

Knock from -1.52 to 0.07

And my engine load only got as high as 0.96

Also noticed my MAF got up to 144-148 g/'s

Not sure what all that means or how it compares to others, but I'll be curious to see what they end up as after the tune.
Do some reading on what does what. Look up the OBD standards for the individual PIDs and see how they work.
You need IATs to make real sense of anything. Your MAF numbers will change depending on air density. I have recently seen as low as 112 g/s at IATs about 70° F and as high as 148 g/s at 35°F. Normally my 2.0 l averages around 128 g/s at WOT.
Engine load is peak torque vs current, calculated using what is reported by the MAF. Most cars report as a percentage of maximum torque that the ECU says is available. You should never see a reading more than 1.0 (100%) with cars using this method.
Some newer cars calculate LOD as a function of volumetric efficiency and RPM. This system reports up to about .95 or so for NA motors. So, either way .96 is not bad, but it has no real bearing on how much power your motor actually makes, stock or otherwise.
Do you have any real time monitoring capability in the car? If not, you should, especially if you are getting a tune done. You should be watching MAF , IAT , AFR , and knock retard numbers while you are driving just in case.
 

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Couple clarification points...

1...I've only flashed 2x and pulled 1 log in between (so on 2nd flash)

2....I have the 2.5 so sounds like my max is 150? I'm running stock airbox.

3...the low knock was when I first got on the throttle at the bottom end like around 1,800 rpm. So really my pull I believe had very litthe knock so I'm hoping it means a have quite a bit more in reserve to tune in
Sounds like you are just at the beginning of the tune. Won't be a huge difference yet. The stock 2.5 makes a bit more than 145 g/s. Again, this number is not useful as it depends on temperature (IATs). You could get a big variation depending on temp. I'm not sure what a fully tuned 2.5 will put out, probably over 160 at 20 oC with bolt ons. You are not at the max, just near the beginning actually. Timing seems close to stock still. The knock you are seeing is tip-in knock. Not related to any limitations of the tune. In the future go into the throttle a bit slower to avoid it. So start putting pedal down at 1500 with fully depressed at 1800. Tip in knock will happen if you mash the pedal quickly on stock or tuned maps. Only higher rpm knock would be limiting the tune. If you want to assess power levels make some consistent logs and look at vdynos. Average at least 2 WOT at the same stretch of road with the same tune file.
 

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Some good stuff! So my first pull logs (at that point I had only done a base flash so not totally stock but not sure if much changed) ....

My Ignition timing ranged from -0.5 to 13.00

Knock from -1.52 to 0.07

And my engine load only got as high as 0.96

Also noticed my MAF got up to 144-148 g/'s

Not sure what all that means or how it compares to others, but I'll be curious to see what they end up as after the tune.
I'm also in the process of tuning my 2016 2.5l 3 and just flashed my base tune.
These numbers are from before I flashed the base tune, with a borla exhaust and a jbr sri:
ignition timing: min -14.5, max 50
knock: min -2.124 max 0.141
engine load: topped at .98
maf: up to 135.88

Flashed my base tune now and should be doing the first real datalog soon. Gl with your progress
 

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I'm also in the process of tuning my 2016 2.5l 3 and just flashed my base tune.
These numbers are from before I flashed the base tune, with a borla exhaust and a jbr sri:
ignition timing: min -14.5, max 50
knock: min -2.124 max 0.141
engine load: topped at .98
maf: up to 135.88

Flashed my base tune now and should be doing the first real datalog soon. Gl with your progress
Don't expect to make any real comparisons with these numbers, as they fluctuate largely depending on conditions independent of tuning. The timing numbers you posted btw are outside the actual WOT run. Yes, the engine will run on 50 and -14.5 degrees of timing, but this is outside the WOT high engine load area.

If you want to compare actual performance gains, get a real dyno, or make standardised WOT logs (read my posts above or in other threads), and compare the Vdyno data generated from those logs. Vdyno's will give you a rough representation of power differences made, but nothing beats a real dyno.
 
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