[kpatz]

I'm suspecting that the clutch is starting to go in my 2.0L 2014. When I do a hard acceleration, say on an uphill onramp in 3rd gear, I get a burning smell. It isn't slipping noticeably in gentler driving (yet), but I suspect that's only going to get worse. The car has under 50K on it, and I don't abuse the clutch, beyond hitting every stoplight red.

Has anyone else had clutch issues in the 45-50K mile range, or a replacement? Is there an aftermarket clutch that might be a bit sturdier? My prior car was an Audi A4 which I had stage 1+ chipped, and when the clutch on that went out at 45k I had a Sachs one put in which was still good when I traded the car at around 120k.

Just wondering what my options are. I'm guessing the warranty won't cover this (I have a 7 year/100k extended warranty), and having it done at the dealership will cost well into 4 figures. If I could get a decent aftermarket one and find a good mechanic to install it, I would be golden.

I'm still paying for the car too, I was hoping I wouldn't have any expensive repairs until at least after it was paid off.

 

[Ns5905]

I just replaced mine today at 75k miles. I found only one aftermarket clutch for it it's an EXEDY kit part number is MZK1012. I had originally ordered the kit that EXEDY's website listed (MZK1003) as being the correct fit but when it arrived the disc and pressure plate were about half an inch in diameter too small so after calling the retailer I bought it from I was told that the iSV requires the MZK1012. I don't know how that works out I'd imagine that the flywheel from the 2.0 Skyactiv in an iSV would be the same as the flywheel from a 2.0 Skyactiv in everything else? Anyways changing the clutch out wasn't all that difficult just a pain. You have to drop the subframe to drop the tranny out. I did mine in the shop on a lift it probably would've taken a few hours if I had the correct parts but since I had to exchange clutch kids it took nearly 2 weeks in all and by that time I started forgetting how everything went back together which slowed up the whole thing even more. If you're going to do it yourself I'd measure your pressure plate and disc before ordering anything and check it with whoever you order from and take pictures of anything you might forget how to put back in it will save you a few headaches. If you plan on doing it in the driveway good luck lol. If you're going to take it somewhere it'll probably cost around $1000-1500 depending on where you go. Good luck let me know if you have need any advice

 

[Midnightsky228]

shouldn't a clutch failing that early be considered a warranty item?

 

[pete_89t2]

shouldn't a clutch failing that early be considered a warranty item?

^This. Unless the extended warranty you purchased specifically excludes in writing clutches as a normal wear item parts that are not covered, I'd bring it in. Worse they could do is say no. Also, from the OP's description of symptoms, I'll assume he has the clutch fully disengaged (foot off the pedal) when it slips/gets the burning smell. If so, it could be an issue with the clutch hydraulic linkage or throw out bearing failing to fully release his clutch. Under light load conditions, you might not sense the slip or smell any burnt clutch, but push it harder and you will.

 

[Must Turbo This 3]

Clutch is considered normal wear and tear and is not usually covered under warranty.

Mine is still solid at 55k miles and both me and wifey beat the living snot outta the car daily but we both have driven manuals for a decade so the clutch isn't abused, just gets a good workout. Lol.

Pop a new one on and call it a day.

I personally like the original clutch and pressure plate. The MZ3 is very easy to drive as a result.

Buying aftermarket is risky because you simply don't know if you'll like the new pressure plate and clutch disk material.

A buddy changed the clutch on his Scion tC and ended up HATING the replacement clutch feel vs OEM because it was much stiffer and made the car harder to daily drive comfortably.

 

[kpatz]

Still not 100% sure if it is the clutch or not... I've gotten the smell a couple more times after a hard pull but no indication of slipping from the tachometer or engine sound, so perhaps just slipping enough to burn? The clutch seems to function normally otherwise. The car only has 43K miles on it too, not 45K like I thought before. And it should be obvious but my foot is completely off the pedal when this happens.

If it is the clutch, and I take it to the dealership, and the warranty doesn't cover it, it'll be expensive and I'm still making payments on the car... translation, I have no money. I'd have to take it somewhere else that's cheaper. But I should find out if there's a defect that caused it, since it shouldn't have worn out from normal use this fast.

@Ns5905 how was your clutch before it wore out? Did it start burning on hard pulls without noticeable slippage, or did it just start to slip? How does the Exedy clutch feel in comparison?

 

[Zealotnic]

I'm currently at 149,000 km and my clutch is going strong still. The only thing it has developed is what I believe is a warped disk since it violently shakes the car if I try to engage at 500-800rpm otherwise it is smooth. Also I would add that I haven't been nice to my clutch with lots of hard starts and redline shifting. No burning smell for me.