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Hi All!

I have a 2012 MS3 and now at a 1000 miles I too have developed a slight rattle in the rear hatch area. From what I have read I have done the following: shock mounts (covered them with light grease and tightened them back up), tightened the rear wing, took everything out of the trunk, tightened the plastic nuts in the rear wheel wells, this all did nothing. However i did find that the passengers side rear belt tensioner was rattling, i lubed that up and it eliminated one of the rattles but I still have others I need to track down. Might be the electronic latch on the hatch, need to check that one still. If you want to check the belt tensioners while going over the bumps have someone or you grab the seat belts from the rear and hold them tight while you go over the bumps, if the rattle stops then you have your culprit.

Thanks.
I have a 2012 MZ3 Hatch and my main rattle back there ended up being the latch. The dealership actually replaced the latch, which I knew wouldn't help because there was nothing wrong with the mechanism itself. To test if the latch is your culprit, take a wash cloth or a shop rag and lay it on the bottom part (the square "hook") of the latch. Then close your hatch on the rag and go for a drive. If that makes your rattle go away, then the latch is the culprit. I ended up fixing mine permanently by adjusting the hook. It's easy to get to. Just take out the foam around your spare tire, then you'll see 2 of those plastic rivets holding in the big plastic piece that covers the hook's bolts. Remove those rivets and then pull up on the plastic and it will come right out. Mine stopped rattling when I adjusted the hook all the way forward and all the way to the left.
 

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I think I found the main source of my rattle

I have a 2012 MZ3 Hatch and my main rattle back there ended up being the latch. The dealership actually replaced the latch, which I knew wouldn't help because there was nothing wrong with the mechanism itself. To test if the latch is your culprit, take a wash cloth or a shop rag and lay it on the bottom part (the square "hook") of the latch. Then close your hatch on the rag and go for a drive. If that makes your rattle go away, then the latch is the culprit. I ended up fixing mine permanently by adjusting the hook. It's easy to get to. Just take out the foam around your spare tire, then you'll see 2 of those plastic rivets holding in the big plastic piece that covers the hook's bolts. Remove those rivets and then pull up on the plastic and it will come right out. Mine stopped rattling when I adjusted the hook all the way forward and all the way to the left.
I did a search in Google and found that people been having the rear wing on the MS3 getting loose and the nuts falling off and rattling. First off I'm just shocked the way the wing is attached. The wing is held on with 4 10mm flared nuts, no nylon nuts or lock nuts keeping the nuts on there. If the nuts loosen a bit, which they will because it they are not very tight to begin with and there isn't any retaining mechanism on the nuts; no loctite either. It is as if the wing was an after thought. I tightened the wing up a bit and I wasn't satisfied with the tightness as it still flexed a little. I took it for a drive and it still was rattling a bit. I got pissed so i took off all of the the plastic trim on the hatch and took the wing off as well. I did add foam in a few places that i saw the plastic trim that looked like it was rubbing.

But getting back to the main point. I took the wing off and found no washers with the nuts attaching them to the hatch. I only tightened the outer 2 nuts down slightly and found that this severely deforms the metal because there are no washers distributing the force on the metal from the nuts. The nuts are just barely bigger than the opening for the studs from the wing that attaches to the hatch. Since the metal was deformed and mushroomed out some of the paint had cracks in it and bare metal was showing. I touched this up with some good sealant paint bought some stainless steel fender washers put foam on the surface of them, put them on the wing with the foam side facing down. I also added 3/4 inch foam on a few of the areas that Mazda had some of the their foam attached. I put the wing back on the hatch and used 4 regular washers with loctite on the nuts and tightened the wing back down. Boy what a difference and the best part is, no rattle anymore :yes:

If anyone wants to do this mod, I can take some pics of the repair and post them. I didn't do it the first time because I was a little skeptical if this would even work.
 

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I had a very annoying rattle in my 4 door 3 from the day that i bought it. I eventually got tired of it and took the whole trunk apart. In mine it ended up being the middle back seatbelt. There is a little plastic and foam clip that is supposed to keep the mechanism from rattling. Well it was too small or misaligned and was banging around. I jut put some double sided tape on the bottom so that it was touching the metal and tightened the seatbelt bolt. I haven't heard a rattle for over a year now.
 

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Hi all. Initially, I didn't see this thread when I started up my thread about a rear rattle in my M3 sedan. I started hearing it around 4,000 miles. I hear it at most speeds but only when you go over bumps (but not all bumps) or uneven payment, in any temperature but I don't usuallly hear it when the roads or wet or its raining. Not sure if the sound is being disguised by the sound of the rain or the water up under the car but I don't seem to hear it nearly as much when it is wet out. I've had it to the dealer twice. Road with the tech on a very short trip and they said they could not replicate the sound. They said they did retighten the suspension but it persists. This is very annoying. I asked if it could be something in the fuel tank (cause I read here that some say it could be that) and he didn't think from what I was describing that that was it.
 

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When searching for some other TSBs I found this one, maybe this is the creaking some people are hearing?

TSB: 0903510 - 07/09/2010 - Interior - Upper C-Pillar Creaking Noises
This is very interesting. I have the same metalic rattle sound and while I was in the back seat sticking my head into the trunk with the car moving, I could hear the noise came from the inside panel under the C-pillar. It's strange that this tps is for 2010 and mine is a 2011. Here is the correct link by the way

2010 Mazda3 Technical Service Bulletin Updates (TSB) - TSB: 0903510 - 07/09/2010 - Interior - Upper C-Pillar Creaking Noises
 

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Maybe found a fix to the rattle in the trunk!

Last weekend, I was driving around and finally couldn't take the rattle anymore. I stopped the car (at the side of the road), opened the trunk (I have a sedan with no spoiler) and started bumping things to see if I could replicate the noise. I did!

And, it's ridiculous.

On my car, the noise was being created by a plastic pin placed in a hole just behind the hinge of the trunk. It lines up with another plastic pin in the trunk lid, but the bottom ones rattle around, making a noise that sounds like a screw or washer bouncing around on metal.

Now, I am NOT a certified Mazda technician, so I have no idea if these serve any true purpose. Remove them at your own risk. I removed mine with a pair of pliers to pinch the bottoms, and haven't heard any rattling noise since. If two plastic pins this flimsy mean the difference between a safe car and an unsafe car, then I'm never buying Mazda again!

Over the past few days, my love for the car has returned. It's amazing how a recurring rattle can destroy a car's appeal.
This is the cure for my noise (light metallic rattle which get louder as the road gets rougher). I'll probably put the pins back but dip them in silicon glue first so they will stick to the slots, not loose. It's strange that after 2 yrs with much more colder days and they become loose now.

Actually I did something else. I used a piece of soft foam and stuff it between the plastic panel and the metal frame, the area behind the passenger side rear seat where the 2 plastic panels joint (sedan). I did this because I heard the noise coming from the C-pillar area but I am sure it was the loose pins that made the noise.

Thx, Irx
 

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I'm having the most annoying "tapping" sound in the rear of my hatch. I previous had clicking sounds in my hatch along with the tapping sound. The dealership identified that the clicking sound was because of the latch mechanism. Replaced and installed. Now I'm left with the tapping sound.


I took all the trim pieces off in the rear...still hear it. Any idea what it might be?
 

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Hatch Latch Rattle

My 2011 hatchback was driving me nuts with a rattle. sounded more plastic rather than a metallic noise.
Much louder with the hatch covers off; the rattle was somewhat muffled with the covers on the hatch. First I attacked all the plastic clips holding the wire loom to the inside of the hatch. Actually used RTV silicone caulk on the holes to isolate the clips from the metal. NO GOOD Then removed the spoiler and drove around with it off.....not the spoiler.....finally had my neighbor drive the car while I was in the back trying to isolate the noise and the culprit was the hatch mechanism itself. Removed it (it's more than 75% made of plastic), used a combo of lithium white grease and silicone spray in/on the mechanism and no more noise. BTW....car is out of it's 12/12 warranty, no help from Mazda and I'm a licensed aircraft mechanic so I'm familiar with which end of a screwdriver to hold. Hope this helps....it sure cured my rattle.
 

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never notice those noises from the rear.. is it really dust guards?
my dust guards came covered in carpet from the exterior which I find very unusual

the noise that's anoying me more is one that I can't spot near the passenger air vent or passenger pilar
can't figure it out but doensn't look from the pilar
as anyone took the air vents out?
I started to pull them out and it seems easy
anyone tried?
 

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I'm having the most annoying "tapping" sound in the rear of my hatch. I previous had clicking sounds in my hatch along with the tapping sound. The dealership identified that the clicking sound was because of the latch mechanism. Replaced and installed. Now I'm left with the tapping sound.

2010 MZ3 Hatch - Sounds from the Rear - YouTube

I took all the trim pieces off in the rear...still hear it. Any idea what it might be?
I've been looking at this issue on and off since posting this video. Does anyone have any new insight into this? I took off the spoiler entirely and the sound was still there. It's driving me nuts!
 

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My rattle was the stabilizer control link...

2010 3sGT Hatchback I just purchased a few weeks ago with 77k miles on the clock.
The rattle is only when I hit sharp/abrupt changes in elevation (pot holes, cheap road repairs, dips at 45+mph). I had looked at the suspension last weekend while I was replacing the rear brakes and didn't notice anything. I checked security of the spare tire and woofer, and removed all the tools and jack. Yanked on the exhaust, but it was secure. I gave thought to it being the license plate or even the hatch area privacy cover (it just lays on the plastic trim). Then after reading thru the posts on this thread, I decided to go out and look at the stabilizer (sway bar) control links (they're easy to see/reach under the car). Well, it turns out the left control link was loose at the sway bar. I didn't even have to touch it, I could actually see it was loose.
My rattle is gone!
Looking closely at the attached pic, you can see the gap. I'll pull it back apart next weekend to see if there is any damage/wear on the "bolt" portion of the ball joint.
 

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2010 sedan - Similar issue

I recently bought a 2010 m3 with 135k miles. I am hearing a sound that sounds like the flexing of a metal sheet from under the body of the car mostly coming from the back. I hear this when car is driven on rough surfaces and bumpy roads. The car is very quiet on good roads. I had A mechanic check the sway bar links, they seemed tight as they should be. I am aware that one of the rear shocks is leaking, I plan to have it replaced. Further, it does seem like the baffle inside the fuel tank is lose: banging on the tank from under the car did produce a rattle. But I think the sound of flexing metal that annoys me is not coming from the fuel tank. It's different. I am yet to fold the back seats down and listen carefully. I also plan to check if the trunk lid is secure.
Did any of you hear sounds similar to what I am describing? Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks!
 

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I recently bought a 2010 m3 with 135k miles. I am hearing a sound that sounds like the flexing of a metal sheet from under the body of the car mostly coming from the back. I hear this when car is driven on rough surfaces and bumpy roads. The car is very quiet on good roads. I had A mechanic check the sway bar links, they seemed tight as they should be. I am aware that one of the rear shocks is leaking, I plan to have it replaced. Further, it does seem like the baffle inside the fuel tank is lose: banging on the tank from under the car did produce a rattle. But I think the sound of flexing metal that annoys me is not coming from the fuel tank. It's different. I am yet to fold the back seats down and listen carefully. I also plan to check if the trunk lid is secure.
Did any of you hear sounds similar to what I am describing? Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks!
I'm surprised the mechanic couldn't find the issue. Sway bar bushings are easy to replace & inexpensive. Check #12 trailing arm brushings
 

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I'm surprised the mechanic couldn't find the issue. Sway bar bushings are easy to replace & inexpensive. Check trailing arm brushings
After driving the car a little more I am certain it's coming from the left rear suspension. That's the side that's a little bouncy. I have ordered shocks, coil springs, trailing arm bushing, and shock mount for the rear. Will replace whichever of those components need to be replaced. I think 12n your figure is not referring to the trailing arm bushing because the one I ordered looks different from 12 in the figure. Thanks a lot for your input.
 

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After driving the car a little more I am certain it's coming from the left rear suspension. That's the side that's a little bouncy. I have ordered shocks, coil springs, trailing arm bushing, and shock mount for the rear. Will replace whichever of those components need to be replaced. I think 12n your figure is not referring to the trailing arm bushing because the one I ordered looks different from 12 in the figure. Thanks a lot for your input.
Upper rear trailing arm:
Part # 12 - it's easy to inspect once the plastic cover is removed. It's surprising all those (tendons) keep the rear wheels on.
 

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Upper rear trailing arm:
Part # 12 - it's easy to inspect once the plastic cover is removed. It's surprising all those (tendons) keep the rear wheels on.
Thanks.
I had the rear shocks and stabalizerbar links replaced. The rattling is gone, but some other faint noises still remain. Will check upper rear trailing arm bushing.
 

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Rear Sway Bar End Links go bad and make "clunk" noises when going over dips and bumps. Also make sure the spare tire and tools are secured properly.
 
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