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Hi,

I am new to the forum. Over the past couple days I have had the same clunking/rattling issue. At first I thought it was in the trunk, but after taking out all the equipent out, it was still there. I crawled under and found that the stablizer bar link was loose on the passenger side. I drove it a short distance and did not hear the sound. I could not believe that it already came loose after 21,000 miles...kinda rediculous. Well, I just wanted to give another option for those of you who are still facing this issue.

Oh, does anyone have the torque specs on how tight that nut should be. I did it fairly tight, similar to when I have replaced the links on previous cars. Also, are there any good repair manuals out. I usually get Hayes so I can get torque specs and other such details, but they do not have one for our car yet and I do not want to pay stealership prices for a shop manual.
 

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Hi,

I am new to the forum. Over the past couple days I have had the same clunking/rattling issue. At first I thought it was in the trunk, but after taking out all the equipent out, it was still there. I crawled under and found that the stablizer bar link was loose on the passenger side. I drove it a short distance and did not hear the sound. I could not believe that it already came loose after 21,000 miles...kinda rediculous. Well, I just wanted to give another option for those of you who are still facing this issue.

Oh, does anyone have the torque specs on how tight that nut should be. I did it fairly tight, similar to when I have replaced the links on previous cars. Also, are there any good repair manuals out. I usually get Hayes so I can get torque specs and other such details, but they do not have one for our car yet and I do not want to pay stealership prices for a shop manual.
jazz, check out my post on 6/23. stabilizer link and sway bar link are the same thing. just put a second nut on the bolts and cinch them up tight. it locks the two together and they shouldn't come loose.
 

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Even after my dealer tightened up the rear sway bar, still got rattling. In investigating it further, it turned out to be the rear bumper assembly rattling. The worst part was the area right behind the rear driver's side, which is where the noise was coming from. I'm not sure what to tighten there (there's some type of bolt, but it doesn't seem to ever tighten), so I'm going to have to have the dealer take a look.
 

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Don't know if this will help, but I was getting an annoying rattle from the rear... turned out to be the "wing" that houses the third brake light. Looks like it's held on to the rear hatch by two threaded posts. On each side, the nut actually loosened, causing the wing to rattle. Threw on some locktight and retightened the nuts - no more rattle.

EDIT: nevermind... not applicable to non-hatch versions.
 

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Hi. I registered here after finding this thread in a Google search for "mazda 3 rear end rattle." Sorry, this will be long.

I have a 2008 Mazda 3 (5-door) that for the past few months has been making an incredible racket. Over any bump or the tiniest pothole, a major, almost unbelievably loud rattling emanates from the rear of the car behind me.

Some months ago, I was rear-ended on the interstate while stuck in traffic. It wasn't highway speeds, but it was 25mph+ so it was solid jolt. I never had any rattling prior to that, so I figured it was something in the rear of the car that had worked loose.

I returned the car to the body shop that did the initial repair, and after outlining the problem, they took the car in for a look. A few hours later, they returned it to me sure that they had found the problem and addressed it. As I drove away, I immediately noticed the rattle again, though quieter. For various reasons, I had no time to return it to them to see if they could either find the real problem or fix what they did.

Since then, the problem has only gotten worse and worse. I took the car to my father-in-law, and we jacked it up and spent a solid 30 minutes under the back of the car trying to locate anything that could be causing the rattle, and found nothing. We opened the hatch and poked around. Maybe it's the jack? Nope, tightened that up and padded it with a t-shirt, still rattles? Spare tire? Nope. The rear license plate, which is only held by two bolts? Nope, not that either.

As of today, the rattle is louder than ever. While at lunch, one of the people riding in the car with me had a chance to hear me complain about the rattle, and she mentioned she has a Mazda 5 that had suffered a similar rattle, but in the front. She even sent me this - http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/mazda3/bulletin/02-002-06-1589.pdf - which detailed the exact problem.

Now, this is clearly not the problem with mine, but from reading this thread and others, it sounds like loose sway bar bushings are a possible culprit for my rattling. I will eagerly try to apply a fix, but one small problem exists. I know next to nothing about cars. I can do the easy stuff like changing the oil or a filter or a tire, but when you start naming parts like "sway bar" my eyes glaze over and I check out.

Would anybody here have enough kindness in their heart to take a pic of the sway bar bushing - that is a thing, right? - and post it here so that I can check to see if that may indeed be the problem? The car has been great for me, I love the thing, but this is making it nearly intolerable to drive, and I have just got to get the problem fixed.

Thanks for reading.

Or if you didn't... TL/DR - HUGE rattle from drivers side rear, need to know where the sway bar bushing is so I can check it.
 

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So I have been reading every forum on the web trying to figure out how to fix the rattle in the rear of my 2009 Mazda 3. Just like many writers suggested, I cleared out the trunk, put down the back seat, and laid in the back while my daughter drove the car around. It was definitely coming from the suspension. I jacked up the rear end and checked everything. I tightened every nut and bolt I could find. I checked the shock tower mounts, etc etc etc. The thing still rattled, and it was getting worse.

I got under the car again and started to lightly tap on everything with a hammer. When I tapped the sway bar links it made a rattling sound similar to what I was hearing inside the car. Although they looked tight, I checked the four link nuts and found them all to be loose. I tightened the two nuts on each side, while holding the bolts with a hex wrench inserted on the end of the bolt. I put a second nut on all of the bolts and cinched them down, essentially locking the first nuts down. I took the car on a long test ride over all type of road surfaces, and not a sound.

I've read other fixes that accomplish the same, but the rattle eventually returns. As far as this car goes, that was definitely the problem. If the noise starts up again, I'll just tighten the nuts again, but the second nut should prevent that from happening. Give it a shot, maybe you have the same problem I had. Good luck!
This is identical to my experience with my brand new 2011 Mazda 3s hatchback. After about 1000 miles, the vehicle developed a clunking/clanking noise emanating from the rear when going over bumps, sewer lids, and irregularities in the road. The noise was apparent mainly at speeds of no greater than 35-40mph, for some reason, at higher speeds, the noise didn't occur (or was minimal). When driving with the rear seats folded down, the noise was especially apparent. Thanks to the members who have posted on this site, I was able to learn about the problem, so as to be better prepared in case the dealer wasn't familiar with the issue. When I brought the vehicle into the dealer and explained the noise, and mentioned that there were quite a few posts on Mazda forums regarding this, he acknowledged that it is a known problem with the Mazda 3. I test drove the car with the service adviser, and after hearing the noise, he was confident that the rear sway bar linkage was the culprit. The mechanic then re-secured the rear sway bar links, and this solved the problem. Here is the notation in my work order: “Inspected, adjusted and re-secured rear sway bar links. Road tested; the noise is gone.” The car now drives without that annoying clunking sound over bumps! I was beginning to feel discouraged about my purchase; the Mazda 3 has great reviews regarding performance and handling, but those rave reviews were beginning to fade in the face of this early problem and I began to question the quality of Mazda. I feel much more satisfied with the vehicle now, and it is so much more pleasurable to drive without that noise! :)) I would like to thank those who have posted about this problem, as it gave me a peace of mind, and the knowledge to dispute the dealer in case they denied any issue. However, the dealer was well aware of this relatively common issue, and was cooperative in fixing the vehicle. (Thanks to the mechanic and service adviser at Mazda of Lakewood in Lakewood, CO for handling this issue quickly and correctly). For those who desire to work on vehicles themselves, if repair manuals are consulted, the rear sway bar is also known as the rear stabilizer bar. For instance, the Mazda 3 Haynes Repair Manual refers to it as the rear stabilizer bar, and details all linkages that interface with it. For those with the same problem, don't worry, it seems to be an easy fix if brought into a good dealer or mechanic, or can be fixed at home for those who are mechanically inclined.
 

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Don't know if this will help, but I was getting an annoying rattle from the rear... turned out to be the "wing" that houses the third brake light. Looks like it's held on to the rear hatch by two threaded posts. On each side, the nut actually loosened, causing the wing to rattle. Threw on some locktight and retightened the nuts - no more rattle.

I want to talk about this for a moment. I'd like some more info on this specific cause. I have a 2011 hatch and I have a rattle that I have localized to the plastic trim piece (you call it a wing) that covers the 3rd (high mounted) brake light. if I open the hatch and tap the bottom of that wing, where the light is, I can duplicate the sound.

Can you tell me exactly what screws you put loctite on? I can't find any screws. Pictures would be great. My trim piece has 2 plastic guides (the shop manual calls them tabs) at the top that fit into similar shaped cutouts on the hatch, and 4 metal one-piece clips that fit into holes on the hatch. I need to stop this before it drives me insane. 3400 miles on this thing, it's brand new and driving me crazy.
 

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So since I last posted, I've had that plastic piece covering the brake light replaced because it wasn't sitting snugly. The noise then came back s short time later. When I take that trim piece off and empty everything from the trunk it still occurs.

I need to check today to see if my spoiler is loose, but I don't think that's it. The sound is a metallic ticking/tapping. I would assume it'd be more of a thump or clunk if it was the sway bar link bolts...

My car is going in tomorrow for 5000 mile service. I'll complain then.
 

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Had a ridiculous rear suspension rattle (gradually getting louder, I decided to deal with it when I could hear it over the radio), and found the source.

The driver side rear suspension would rattle over every bump or hill. Took it to the dealer, they replaced the shock and that side - said it wasn't leaking but -was- making some noise.

The sound is gone... from the drivers side. Now I can hear the passenger side doing the same thing. Makes me wonder if it's a design issue, and that some/all of the OEM shocks will do the same thing? At this point I'm learning to deal with it.
 

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So my dealer drove my car for 9 miles, listening to the issue. They are convinced my noise is coming from the liftgate latch. They told me they called their tech support and confirmed. Apparently it is a known issue with the electronic latch (tech package). The part is ordered and will be replaced next Friday.
 

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at around 8k I had a loud clunk which was my rear sway bar, the dealer tightened it. Now I have another knocking/clunk over bumps, but I cannot for the life of me find it. My gf's Mazda3 hatch is the same year, yet I seem to get all of the quirks :argh 1:
 

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:argh 1:
So my dealer drove my car for 9 miles, listening to the issue. They are convinced my noise is coming from the liftgate latch. They told me they called their tech support and confirmed. Apparently it is a known issue with the electronic latch (tech package). The part is ordered and will be replaced next Friday.
Same problem here - The electronic latch rattled. Dealer replaced it and the rattle had gone away. Now a couple of thousand miles later ... The rattle is back. The dealer wants me to pay for another one. Great support Mazda ... :argh 1:
 

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:argh 1:

Same problem here - The electronic latch rattled. Dealer replaced it and the rattle had gone away. Now a couple of thousand miles later ... The rattle is back. The dealer wants me to pay for another one. Great support Mazda ... :argh 1:
It's been a couple of weeks and about 1000 miles. My car is still rattle free. We'll see how it lasts the winter.
 

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My dealer try to fixed it for 4 times and the rattle still there. They suggest me to complain to the corporation which I did. The corporation told me it is not a safe issue, they won't provide any further help. I describe this situation to an attorney but he didn't take my case. 2 years pass and the rattle still exist. I send back the car to the dealer again and they say they will order a part, now, 4 weeks pass they never give me a ring. I really don't know what to do next?
 

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Ive been experiencing the same rattle, light clunking noise coming from the rear interior of the car a few months ago. So I took the trunk lid off the car, and still hear the noise. Afterwards, I stopped at a parking lot, made sure the spare tire was completely tightened to the trunk and same with the jack. Still heard the noise, it's only noticable when driving 40mph or less on irregular surfaces on the road or going over speed bumps.

I'm going to wait a while and see if the noise gets worse, then I'll have to bring the car to the dealer and explain what the situation is.
 

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Ive been experiencing the same rattle, light clunking noise coming from the rear interior of the car a few months ago. So I took the trunk lid off the car, and still hear the noise. Afterwards, I stopped at a parking lot, made sure the spare tire was completely tightened to the trunk and same with the jack. Still heard the noise, it's only noticable when driving 40mph or less on irregular surfaces on the road or going over speed bumps.

I'm going to wait a while and see if the noise gets worse, then I'll have to bring the car to the dealer and explain what the situation is.
I had the same problem, and after driving around for a bit, discovered it's the driver's side rear bumper assembly. It's a little loose, and it rattles on uneven surfaces.

At my 5,000 mi. checkup, I'm going to ask the dealer to take a look.
 

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Found part of the problem

Hi All!

I have a 2012 MS3 and now at a 1000 miles I too have developed a slight rattle in the rear hatch area. From what I have read I have done the following: shock mounts (covered them with light grease and tightened them back up), tightened the rear wing, took everything out of the trunk, tightened the plastic nuts in the rear wheel wells, this all did nothing. However i did find that the passengers side rear belt tensioner was rattling, i lubed that up and it eliminated one of the rattles but I still have others I need to track down. Might be the electronic latch on the hatch, need to check that one still. If you want to check the belt tensioners while going over the bumps have someone or you grab the seat belts from the rear and hold them tight while you go over the bumps, if the rattle stops then you have your culprit.

Thanks.
 
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