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Now this sounds promising!! There's just one minor issue, and it's that I can't visualize what you're saying here. Do you think there's any way you can take some pictures of what you did? Can someone like me, who the most they've ever done to their car is change the oil and brake pads, do this on their own? I'm dying to make this rattle go away.
I knew I should have just posted the pics I took, lol. But I didn't take them after I finished just when I took it apart. It was getting late and I forgot.

And yes nd, anyone who can turn a wrench can do this. If you look up inside the wheel wells you'll see the piece I'm talking about. I did take a few pics. I forgot to take one of the piece with the little piece of foam that Mazda puts over the top that you'll see in the pic. Under it is just the 12mm nut that olds the shock in place. If you read my detailed instructions after seeing this piece you'll easily be able to do this. You don't have to take the wheels off but it's easier if you do. Just use a jack to lift the center rear of the car up about 6-12" so that when you remove the bottom bolt on the shock it will be easier to get into place when you put it back on. Just lower or raise the jack to get it in the right position after you have tightened up the top and put that back together. Otherwise you have to fight the gas charged shock to push it up to line up the bolt.

LOL, I just saw the pics warlord posted, thanks. There you go, with mine and his you can see it all.

[edited to add] And best of all today was the first time driving the car EVER that I didn't have to listen to the rattling tapping in the back!!!!!! :Racing 1:

Mazda3
 

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sounds like I'm in for a treat. I have developed the clunking at the rear at just over 1k miles into ownership. ghey.
If it sounds like a clunk then it's not the same issue I've talked about above. This noise is a more metallic sound or a clicking/ticking sound. It doesn't clunk or sound deep. And it's not just when you hit big bumps this noise is there all the time as you drive because it's caused by the shocks simply moving up and down and they obviously do that constantly once you start moving.

You have some other noise that luckily I don't have yet, lol. Good luck and let us know what happens.
 

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As soon as all the bushings in the multilink suspension loosen up (wear in) after a few thousand miles you'll hear the clunking that most people complain about. Also the total lack of any sort of sound deadening material in the back makes for a noisy back end. The Styrofoam ring around the spare doesn't count as sound deadening. Plus the hatchback doesn't have a cross brace separating the trunk from the back seats like the sedan does.
 

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@ wavehogger : I experience the same problem with my Mz3 hatch here in Belgium and like to have it solved for once and for all.
What kind of semi-hard washers did you use, i mean what kind of material is it exactly ? (or do you have a pic of them ?)

Thanks for your reply !
 

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@ wavehogger : I experience the same problem with my Mz3 hatch here in Belgium and like to have it solved for once and for all.
What kind of semi-hard washers did you use, i mean what kind of material is it exactly ? (or do you have a pic of them ?)

Thanks for your reply !
I had some thin rubber washers but didn't take a pic or measure them. But once you get the mounting piece off you can easily see what size you'll need. The washers I used were about as firm as the kind you would use for say a water hose outside, but only about 1/2 the thickness, probably around 1/16". If you don't have any washers take the mounting piece off and go to the hardware store and just find some that will fit nicely inside the recessed area you see in the pics. As long as you get something in between the top and bottom so it's not metal to metal and it takes up the tiny slack I believe is there it will work fine. And be sure to put grease on the mount where it sits against the body of the car. You'll see where Mazda put some grease but they only put it in the middle I coated the entire mounting surface to be sure that it wasn't creaking or making any noise if it was to flex or move at all.

It's really not complicated and I'm sure you'll have no trouble. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Will this work in the front as well? BTW, I'm the OP on this thread. I've had no more trouble with the noise from the rear but the same noise has recently developed in the front passenger side.
 

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I have a strange clunk that is coming from the front end too... Its definitely a metal to metal sound, and the technician can't find where its coming from after have been up there 3 times now. According to the lemon law, if you are in the shop for the same problem 3 times or more, they have to give you the money back for the car or give you a new one. As many times as I have complained about bad clunks and rattles, it should be covered soon!!

I just want that stupid sound out of the darn thing, don't matter if its a new car or fixed the one I have!
 

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Disappeared and now I'm back.

I've been gone for nearly a year, but the noises certainly didn't go away. It didn't take long for my rear metallic tapping noise to return... plus some new ones! (*JOY*)

Since last we spoke:

- My driver's seat began squeaking. It was fixed with "insulator" (read: foam) as in accord to a service bulletin that was released. This didn't fix the problem. Upon returning to the dealer two more times, they ended up replacing the entire driver's seat. That fixed the problem.

- My instrument/speedometer cluster began to make what I can only describe as a racket. This was pretty intense. Crackling, crunching and popping at any speed CONSISTENTLY. Fortunately, this was easily heard (and impossible to ignore). The techs ended up replacing the ENTIRE instrument cluster. This fixed the problem.

- I think I mentioned before that I had a terrible glass-rubbing-against-plastic that started about a month after I got the car, but I wanted to mention it again because I read about it in this thread. The "windshield placement pins" were sheared off during factory installation. The tech reinstalled the windshield and this problem was fixed.

- The metallic rattle in the back of my car has recurred several times. I've been into the dealer repeatedly for this one - they've replaced the rear struts holding up the trunk (didn't fix it), reinstalled and reinsulated the shock absorbers (didn't fix it) and told me that they couldn't reproduce it (didn't fix it). I have since read that there may be a problem with a splash guard INSIDE the gas tank. Since this problem seems to be pretty widespread among a lot of 3s, I'm going to hope that it ISN'T that and try that shock trick someone posted earlier.

Overall, I'm pretty disappointed with the fit and finish this go-around. I've owned a number of other Mazdas (1995 Miata M, 2000 B-2500 and 2002 Protege5) and they all held up really well.

I contacted the Customer Assistance Center regarding this issue (and the myriad of other ones). I definitely don't recommend taking this course of action unless you enjoy being SERIOUSLY pissed off :argh 1:. I dealt with a woman named Meriam Stevens (I'm putting her name here so you'll know to ask for someone else if you get her). She's one of those women who's paid to deny service to customers and she's VERY proud of her track record. Where I work right now, there are women exactly like Ms. Stevens who work behind me - they deny insurance claims on the other side of the wall, and they're all really proud of themselves when they can give someone a hard time.

When I spoke with her, she was rude, abrupt and basically cut me off saying there was nothing Mazda could do. When I asked what next steps I should take, she said, "You need to deal with your dealer, sir" and didn't even tell me to have a nice day before hanging up on me. :shocked:

I kind of feel like Mazda's developing the wrong attitude. Y'know, the "we love our customers'... money" attitude.

EDIT: I just ran a search and found other people on this very forum who have dealt with Ms. Stevens as well! She gave me almost the exact same response verbatim that she gave this poor guy for the exact same issue! http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-mazdaspeed-3-suspension-handling/6104-subframe-popping-metal-noise-unbelievable-response-mazda.html
 

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- The metallic rattle in the back of my car has recurred several times. I've been into the dealer repeatedly for this one - they've replaced the rear struts holding up the trunk (didn't fix it), reinstalled and reinsulated the shock absorbers (didn't fix it) and told me that they couldn't reproduce it (didn't fix it). I have since read that there may be a problem with a splash guard INSIDE the gas tank. Since this problem seems to be pretty widespread among a lot of 3s, I'm going to hope that it ISN'T that and try that shock trick someone posted earlier.
Maybe I'm fortunate, in that after 42.5K miles, I really haven't had any such problems to speak of, and my 2010 was likely one of the first ones delivered after it's introduction.

That being said, I did have a rattle in the back hatch (I mentioned this earlier in this thread). It turned out one of the screws that held in the spoiler (5-door) fell loose into the frame. My dealer was able to fish it out and replace it. You might want to check if your spoiler feels loose. Good luck!
 

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Might have found a fix to the rattle in the trunk (sedan).

Maybe found a fix to the rattle in the trunk!

Last weekend, I was driving around and finally couldn't take the rattle anymore. I stopped the car (at the side of the road), opened the trunk (I have a sedan with no spoiler) and started bumping things to see if I could replicate the noise. I did!

And, it's ridiculous.

On my car, the noise was being created by a plastic pin placed in a hole just behind the hinge of the trunk. It lines up with another plastic pin in the trunk lid, but the bottom ones rattle around, making a noise that sounds like a screw or washer bouncing around on metal.

Now, I am NOT a certified Mazda technician, so I have no idea if these serve any true purpose. Remove them at your own risk. I removed mine with a pair of pliers to pinch the bottoms, and haven't heard any rattling noise since. If two plastic pins this flimsy mean the difference between a safe car and an unsafe car, then I'm never buying Mazda again!

Over the past few days, my love for the car has returned. It's amazing how a recurring rattle can destroy a car's appeal.
 

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Maybe found a fix to the rattle in the trunk!

Last weekend, I was driving around and finally couldn't take the rattle anymore. I stopped the car (at the side of the road), opened the trunk (I have a sedan with no spoiler) and started bumping things to see if I could replicate the noise. I did!

And, it's ridiculous.

On my car, the noise was being created by a plastic pin placed in a hole just behind the hinge of the trunk. It lines up with another plastic pin in the trunk lid, but the bottom ones rattle around, making a noise that sounds like a screw or washer bouncing around on metal.

Now, I am NOT a certified Mazda technician, so I have no idea if these serve any true purpose. Remove them at your own risk. I removed mine with a pair of pliers to pinch the bottoms, and haven't heard any rattling noise since. If two plastic pins this flimsy mean the difference between a safe car and an unsafe car, then I'm never buying Mazda again!

Over the past few days, my love for the car has returned. It's amazing how a recurring rattle can destroy a car's appeal.
Thanks for the post. Could you post pics of where you found the pins? I have a 2010 M3 touring i (sedan, no spoiler) and still have that rattle. Sometime ago I had the rear shocks replaced (under warranty). The rattle was gone for a little while, but came back after that. The sound I am referring to is a very soft metallic "tick" that occurs only when going over small bumps (I don't hear it when going over large bumps or speed bumps) It occurs no matter how hot/cold it is outside. I am very sure that it is coming from the rear, near the shocks. I have also heard the sound when the trunk is open or closed.


Thanks,
m3touring
 

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Pic of trunk pin



The plastic pin is supposed to line up to provide a little support to the folded trunk hinge. In my case, the pin did not line up with the trunk hinge, so the plastic pin just bounced around. The two in my trunk were black.

Like m3Touring, my dealer detached and reattached my shocks, telling me they properly insulated them. The noise went away for awhile and then came back. It happened over any kind of bump, in any kind of temperature, and even when I drove around with my trunk open. After I found these pins, I realized why - those pins ALWAYS bounced around, telegraphing the noise into the car like it was coming from the shocks.

Hope this can help someone else who might be experiencing what I am. It's been over a full week and the noise is completely gone.
 

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Hi irxproductions, up to today, is the rattling noise completely gone?
I live at Singapore, just brought a 2010 M3 & having the same noise problems, trying out all sort of solutions but the noise is there, will like to try your suggestion, hope it works.
 

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To: Mazda.sg and all,

I'm almost hesitant to write this for fear that my car will hear that I'm actually satisfied and develop all-new rattles, but, yes, removing the pins from the trunk seems to have solved the noise (almost a month now). I looked at the trunk tonight, and the hinges do actually impact the upper pins. Whether these pins are absolutely necessary to maintaining the integrity of the trunk hinges, I don't know, but I'd rather pay for replacement hinges than try to tolerate the aggravating tapping.

To alleviate anyone who might be experiencing other rattles, let me tell you that this is what one of the more rattly cars I've ever owned. There's a lot of crunching that comes from the air vents when I go over bumps, there's a faint buzz from the driver's door over rough pavement as well as a number of other rattles emanating throughout the car. I've grown tolerant of these noises as long as nothing so consistent and annoying as the tapping in the trunk has gone away.

Seriously, I've owned a Miata and a Protege5 both borne from the same Hiroshima plant that built my current 3. I'm not sure why the fit and finish seems to be a bit lesser in this car than others built at the same plant.

That being said, I really do enjoy my car now that it's not driving me totally insane (pun intended).

~ irxproductions
 

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Hi irxproductions, thanks for reply, it is useful to me. My M3 the tapping sounds getting louder & louder. I will try to cover the plastic pin with some cloth, sponge or something that can absorb sounds...cross my finger & hope it works. Hope the tapping sounds is not from suspensions.

Look like there are no perfect lower budget car in this world, my 1st car a Malaysia made Proton have squeaking sounds in the suspensions (the car only cost less than SGD40K), my 2nd car a Toyota Yaris have some suspension depressing sounds when I load my rear seat with 3 passengers (cost around SGD60K) & now M3 (cost around SGD92K), LOL....:stuart:
 

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Hi irxproductions, a question for you, how about the white pin on the top hinge of the trunk?

I am still wonder how a small pin can cause a huge tapping sounds....:001_unsure:
 

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Another Mazda 3 rear suspension rattle fix?

So I have been reading every forum on the web trying to figure out how to fix the rattle in the rear of my 2009 Mazda 3. Just like many writers suggested, I cleared out the trunk, put down the back seat, and laid in the back while my daughter drove the car around. It was definitely coming from the suspension. I jacked up the rear end and checked everything. I tightened every nut and bolt I could find. I checked the shock tower mounts, etc etc etc. The thing still rattled, and it was getting worse.

I got under the car again and started to lightly tap on everything with a hammer. When I tapped the sway bar links it made a rattling sound similar to what I was hearing inside the car. Although they looked tight, I checked the four link nuts and found them all to be loose. I tightened the two nuts on each side, while holding the bolts with a hex wrench inserted on the end of the bolt. I put a second nut on all of the bolts and cinched them down, essentially locking the first nuts down. I took the car on a long test ride over all type of road surfaces, and not a sound.

I've read other fixes that accomplish the same, but the rattle eventually returns. As far as this car goes, that was definitely the problem. If the noise starts up again, I'll just tighten the nuts again, but the second nut should prevent that from happening. Give it a shot, maybe you have the same problem I had. Good luck!
 

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The sound I am referring to is a very soft metallic "tick" that occurs only when going over small bumps (I don't hear it when going over large bumps or speed bumps) It occurs no matter how hot/cold it is outside. I am very sure that it is coming from the rear, near the shocks. I have also heard the sound when the trunk is open or closed.
I haven't heard the sound when the trunk is open or closed, but everything else you describe matches a sound that I have (GT, with spoiler). Did you ever get this solved?
 
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